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Dmf (Flywheel)


turnedlight

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  • 1 month later...

Wow, just come back to this, surprised how many accusations of bad driving I'm getting! I know its only my word for it but I do not think I am a bad driver, thanks! 

 

As an update, they took out the dmf saying it could just be wear and tear,and on inspection said it was 'premature failure'.

Since the new one has gone in I still think there's more noise on turning off the engine than there used to be but maybe I'm more sensitive to noises now.

 

Now today we have the exhaust system management light staying on (not the dpf light, just the exhaust light) so I am off to garage yet again. No doubt the people on here will put that down to my driving style too..  :notme:  

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Interesting thread. It mirrors one that took place on the FiatForum 7 or 8 years ago, when people were complaining about DMF failures on the Doblo. My wife is very heavy on the clutch and hers has just gone to new owners with 75k on the clock, and the original DMF!

Edited by Obadiah
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The DMF on my Yeti was replaced in November last - mileage 73208 - age of vehicle 2 3/4 yrs. Cost of the actual DMF part itself was £543.94 inc VAT. As far as I'm concerned, t'was just "Sod's Law", nowt to do with inferior parts, VAG, nor indeed driving style whether on- or offroad. Nevertheless the overall cost of ownership of my Yeti, in terms of other mechanical faults and servicing, remains reasonable over the period, and my joy in driving a Yeti is totally undiminished from the day I drove off the forecourt new on collection after some months' wait for a factory-build.   

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As an update, the thing wot 'as gone wrong now is the throttle valve control.

I agree with you, Arkaig, I love my yeti, only I'm starting to waver a bit now, this year (first year out of warranty) it's had a lot of problems for only 30,000 miles on the clock..

Edited by turnedlight
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Our Yeti needed it's original DMF replaced at around 77,000 miles at 3 years old. It was one of several "wear and tear" jobs the dealer we bought from agreed to do pre-sale, and be included in the agreed price. It's now on 115,000m at 4.7 years with no sign of further problem (different drivers?).

 

Although I do wince and think of its little springs getting a hammering every time SWMBO parks it in gear, switches off and lifts the clutch at the same time - giving the transmission a jolt!  (Parking in gear is a habit she got into ever since we had a Citroen Xantia, when the official written advice from Citroen UK was to ALWAYS park in gear. After all the claims they had about the parking brake losing its effectiveness after a few minutes parked (Acted on the front disks, hence as they cooled the brake gradually released. Not a clever system).

Edited by FlintstoneR1
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My xp of DMFs in other (diesel) cars I've had is that they go alongside the clutch and the two combined with the work replacing them can cost anything from £1k to £1.5k. I think (hope!) it might be the case that older non-CR engines are more prone to eating them up-I've replaced two in 20-odd years of diesel motoring. As I'm doing 20k miles a year, diesel is the only way to go for me but there's a pot of money being saved for these potential large expenses some-when down the line. :notme:

Edited by fastestlouigie
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Would I be right in thinking that whatever badge is on the front/rear of the car (Ford, GM, VAG, etc.) that stuff like clutch packs and DMF units are not actually made by that company's assembly plants at all, but by a handful of major component suppliers, such at LuK, TRW, MAGNA, etc. Who supply what are essentially the same DMFs to lots of different "manufacturers"? 

 

Or are the DMFs re-designed for each and every application or power unit they are fitted to?

Edited by FlintstoneR1
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Message to and reply from Honest John of the Telegraph.

 

Is there any way to avoid dual mass flywheel problems, other than by not buying a diesel? Are they affected by driving style or maintenance? I have a 2006 Ford Focus 2.0 TDCi and wonder whether I'm on borrowed time.

 

Don't let the clutch out when you're in gear and the engine is idling – always apply some revs. Also, try to double declutch smoothly up and down the box. That's the advice offered by readers whose DMFs have lasted for 200,000 miles.

 

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Always been told that double declutching can cause premature wear on the Synchro hubs - should only really be used on a crash box. Got that from police driving instructor

The syncro hubs only contact the cones when the gear lever is moved to bring the gear up or down to engine speed.

The only time there is wear on them is when slowing down or speeding up the chutch disk, if the input/output speeds are the same they will just press together with no wear.

Your police driving instructer needs to learn about gearboxes.

It is not really needed to double de-clutch but some of us care about mechanical sympathy more than others.

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