Hi

 

So basically about two days ago i was driving my 2011 Skoda Superb 170 CR Elegance and i stopped at the traffic lights. I myself stalled the car, and when i turned it back on the red steering light was on, meaning that i had totally lost all power steering.

 

I checked the owners manual and there is no power steering fluid box or anything like that

 

i checked the fuse for power steering but it seemed fine

 

I had someone come out and check my car with a diagnostics kit and basically he said that the ECU may need flashing. I dont know what system he used but it wasn't vagcom as he had a portable handheld device.

 

anyways, i then phoned up another guy and he said that by the sounds of it, if the power steering just randomly goes it will be a fuse and to check all the fuses as they are linked together

 

so i checked the fuses but i dont have an ammeter or anything so i pulled each fuse out one by one, visually checking that the wire was not broken. all the fuses were fine except for the cigarette lighter fuse. so i replaced this fuse

 

however, when i got into my car to start it, i turned the key but non of the dashlights, stereo, clock or anything like that came on

 

all other lights, including factory xenons, interior lights, central locking,,,, allll other electrics work but when i turn the key the ignition wont start and the clock stereo dashlights,, nothing will come on.. the car wont start.....................

 

now when i was checking the fuses i didnt disconnect the battery.... so this time i disconnected the battery and again checked all the fuses again but VISUALLY pulling them out and checking the wire.... all fuses were fine but the car just will not start, non of the dash lights, instrument cluster, radio, clock nothing works but all other lights and electronics do (apart from electronics that need the ignition to be on e.g. windows)

 

i tried jump starting the car with heavy duty jump cables but it didnt work..

 

the fuses i checked were the ones under the bonnet and next to the dashboard/steering wheel..... also what is the 100amp big black fuse for that is in the fuse box under the bonnet??

 

Has this happened to anyone before, anyone have any idea what it could be?

 

Thanks

 

Difficult to tell what would be wrong and you seen to've exhausted all the common sense routes. Do you have AA/RAC cover? If so, they may be able to pinpoint the cause, but failing that, hopefully they can relay it to a dealer.

Battery dead?

The symptoms point to fuse 6 in the dashboard, but you've already checked that.

How long had you been driving the car for before it stalled, did you get the car started, and how long ago was the car last driven?

Is it possible that when you removed one of the fuses, you put it back in the wrong fuse position?

Is it possible that when you removed one of the fuses, you put it back in the wrong fuse position?

My thoughts exactly. I spent a few hours trying to fault find somebody else car, only to find they had done exactly this. I knew the fuses were all intact, never expected one in the wrong hole. Very easily done.

Recheck the fuses for proper position cos as the lads have said it's easy done to put it back, sometimes the manual is wrong and the fuses aren't in the same positions the book says,

 

iirc the red steering well will come on when the engine dies for whatever reason, someone help me here does the Sup 2 have paf or is it like the Passat with electric steering?

 

Don't mess with the ECU yet you could do more damage, fully disconnect the battery and give it a full charge, if nothing then you need to bite the bullet and let Skoda plugin or you'll be chasing your tail, it does sound fuse related tbh.

 

Just had a thought,

 

DPF blocked as the original fault?

Edited 12 January, 201511 yr by Supurbia

Is the engine cranking and won't start or isn't the starter going?

Get some extra fuses and fit them in the "spare" slots

Edited 15 January, 201511 yr by peterposh

hi, sorry to jump on this thread, but i found it via a google search

 

i have the exact same issue. 2012 skoda superb 2.0 tdi done 130k miles 

 

i blew a fuse in the engine bay few days ago 15a by dropping a screw into the cig lighter plug which shorted it (i was removing the stereo)....the car wouldnt start so i replaced a fuse in the engine bay,  with what  at the time I thought was a spare 15a but realised 2 days later when my 12v and horn wasnt working 

 

I parked car up to check all fuses to find the one for the horn...not realising i had pulled it out 2 days earlier to use lol. The two in the fuse box looked separate so i thought they were spares. 

 

anyway..went to start car and it wouldnt start just turning over.

 

called rac out and they said it was the EGR. car started with easy start...kept revving it. but would cut out again. 

 

managed to get it home by keeping it revved. and then it cut out again. 

 

This morning...after reading this thread...i thought id put a couple fuses in empty spaces. One of them being...the one i took the 15A out of 2/3 days earlier. My horn started to work and car started without much effort. no warning lights and drives ok. not in limp

 

 

Any ideas fellas...could the EGR fault have been related to the horn fuse or is it completely seperate

 

and could the original poster tell me what the issue was please

 

 

thanks in advance, look forward to response

Post a photo of your fusebox and mark the one you moved.  There are more fuses at the end of the dashboard, on the driver's side.

 

What month was your car in 2012.  There were changes in May and November.  Download your car's manual HERE.  It will show you which fuse does what.  Be sure to pick the production year from the drop-down list first.

 

Obviously, that fuse was for the horn but it may also have been for something to do with the EGR or other environmental devices on the engine.

Edited 28 September, 20205 yr by farty

Farty..thanks for reply

 

in this pic i removed the blue 15A from the two fuses located at the top  that are alone from the rest hence why i thought it was a spare. its below the green one

according to my handbook its f17 assuming iv got version b which it says is for Horn. but looks like cigarette lighter was attached to it too

 

 

my car is registered july 2012 cffb engine code

 

if it is the egr..can they be cleaned or is it the usual dpf/egr delete job which ive been quoted £350 for. iv seen a replacement used egr on ebay which the seller lists are 76k miles and in good working order. for £25. I dont want to just leave it and it crops up again leaving me stranded

 

I added some Forte diesel turbo/egr cleaner to fuel and took it for a run. so far its been ok

I think you are correct that those two are spares.  But they are probably already used!  Did you check the fuses on the end of the dashboard?  The photo in the Owners Manual is for a left-hand -drive car.  You need to look on the driver's side.  There is a cutout on the bottom.  Use the ignition key blade or a screwdriver to pry the cover off.  Again, take a photo so you know where each fuse goes.

Could you take another photo and get it in focus?  

 

Also photograph the other fusebox.  See if there is a fuse puller clipped onto the cover.  The tool will stop you dropping a fuse into the dashboard gubbins or cigarette lighter socket  

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuse-Puller-Remover-Short-30mm-Yellow-Car-Bike-Automotive-Mini-Micro-Blade-Fuse/202092338861

8 hours ago, bimma123 said:

i blew a fuse in the engine bay few days ago 15a by dropping a screw into the cig lighter plug which shorted it (i was removing the stereo)....the car wouldnt start so i replaced a fuse in the engine bay,  with what  at the time I thought was a spare 15a but realised 2 days later when my 12v and horn wasnt working 

Is this your own car or were you just nicking the radio?

farty, i will try to upload a better pic tmrw

 

yes i checked all the fuses at the end of the dashboard and non were blown. i even put in a couple of 7.5a fuses in the blanks incase i misplaced a fuse when re fitting it but the problem only got solved when i replaced the above 15a fuse in engine so im just thinking if that is related to egr circuit too.

 

lol yes its my own car, my parrot bluetooth kit was playing up so i removed the stereo and the heater console to check for loose wires , thats why one of those screws fell into the cigarette lighter 12v 

1 hour ago, bimma123 said:

Farty..thanks for reply

 

in this pic i removed the blue 15A from the two fuses located at the top  that are alone from the rest hence why i thought it was a spare. its below the green one

according to my handbook its f17 assuming iv got version b which it says is for Horn. but looks like cigarette lighter was attached to it too

 

 

my car is registered july 2012 cffb engine code

 

if it is the egr..can they be cleaned or is it the usual dpf/egr delete job which ive been quoted £350 for. iv seen a replacement used egr on ebay which the seller lists are 76k miles and in good working order. for £25. I dont want to just leave it and it crops up again leaving me stranded

 

I added some Forte diesel turbo/egr cleaner to fuel and took it for a run. so far its been ok

 

DPF/EGR delete is a bad idea: the idea that it's "usual" is pub talk. Doing it even passably well will require the hardware to close off both, plus a remap so that the engine management doesn't throw a fit when it finds them missing. Anyone claiming they can do it without a remap are chancers.

 

The main cost of EGR replacement is the 6 hours of labour needed to get to it and get everything back together afterwards. Find a good indy with decent rates and it's not that bad.

chimaera. The guy who quoted £350 for egr delete, and dpf delete said it would be mapped out too . ive known him 20+ years so can be trusted he does this proffesionally.  He quoted £150 labour to remove and replace an EGR. but he advised not getting a used one and for the cost of a new one off euro carparts £250+_with discount he said the delete was a better long term solution.

 

its all down to local city driving i guess. i do 5 miles to work daily and 9 miles once a week the rest are all short 1/2 mile trips. and as weather is getting colder, the car will take longer to warm up

 

for now its running fine. ive added the Forte cleaner additive to fuel..

 

i saw this thread and was wandering if the poster had found the issue and if mine was caused due to the fuse or random fault

The EGR on these engines is not some kind of afterthought as it might have been 20 or 30 years ago. Ditto DPF. Both are tightly integrated into the engine design and operation, and disentangling them completely is difficult. What might have been true 20 years ago is ancient history now when it comes to engine technology.

My son has a Tiguan with the same CFFB engine, 2012.

 

His EGR started sticking & eventually caused a no-start situation.

 

He now has one of these fitted :-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11-EGR-AGR-Emulator-Simulator-Plate-for-VW-Audi-Skoda-Seat-2-0-TDI-CR-II-Euro-5/183869556154?hash=item2acf7ac5ba:g:OaAAAOSw-DRdHK14

 

No more EGR problem ( EGR now effectively deleted ) & DPF still functions perfectly.

 

Been fitted over a year & passes MOT no problem.

PipH, sounds good. did he have to get this bypass professionally fitted or was it a d.i.y? as the pics indicate removing the plugs and plugging in the emulator to give the car the impression of a fully functioning EGR being present.  but there are two plates in the picture? what are they for as the emulator is just the electronic device

Edited 29 September, 20205 yr by bimma123

Easy DIY.

 

You have to remove the air pipe from the air filter to the turbo, Jubilee type clip, & pull out the breather pipe.

 

This gives you access for your hand down the back of the engine until you locate the wiring plug into the EGR by feel.

 

You can see it with the aid of a mirror & torch beforehand to get some idea of location.

 

Push the clip & pull off the plug.

 

Plug that cable into identical socket on the new unit, then the other 2 plugs into the MAF & plug removed from MAF.

 

If the EGR is stuck open in any way, the blanking plate can be used to block it completely at the front of the engine, easy access.

 

Total job takes 1/2 hour max.

 

pipH Thanks. i will see if this problem repeats and will definately go for the above solution 

When my son's one stuck open & caused a no start situation, he called out the AA.

 

AA man diagnosed the EGR with his diagnostic.

 

Promptly got out his No2 hammer & gave the EGR a clout, which fixed it enough to now drive.

 

So might be worth carrying a Birmingham with you until sorted.

piph. ok will give it a go if it happens again. but is there any way of even seing the egr at the back of the engine..the RAC guy said its just right of the dpf and low down so very difficult to access. but if i can get in there with a long wheel brace to hit it then thats a good thing to get me going again if stranded.  But will get the emulator when it happens again

 

thanks for the tips