Was it stage 1 or stage 2 you had? I'm guessing a stage 1 (well what they call stage 1) plus the FMIC = 211.

Was it stage 1 or stage 2 you had? I'm guessing a stage 1 (well what they call stage 1) plus the FMIC = 211.

Correct, stage 1. May look at down pipe with sports cat and a proper air intake for stage 2 sometime in the future. I wasn't hoping for the best figure out there, and I'm happy with the figure. Obviously if I only use enough gentle throttle to get to 40 for example, I'm not expecting to get there in half the time it did previously. Just so people don't think I'm being stupid?!

Very nice curves if I might say so myself

 

Just looking at the graphs you provided you should be able to feel a substantial above 2.5k revs and 3.5k the difference is even bigger. The biggest gains are between 3.5k and 4.5k and 227bhp is a very good number - a rather large gain from stock!

Very nice curves if I might say so myself

 

Just looking at the graphs you provided you should be able to feel a substantial above 2.5k revs and 3.5k the difference is even bigger. The biggest gains are between 3.5k and 4.5k and 227bhp is a very good number - a rather large gain from stock!

 

Thanks but let's not hijack the thread! I had posted these on my own review thread iirc. Just wanted to show that below 3K you won't feel much.

 

By the way, regarding your question about mpg, there's not such a big difference between me and the wife driving. Maybe 32 vs. 36 mpg. Even during constant pushing (say 30 min that revs don't ever fall below 4K) it doesn't show less than 25 mpg. On long highway travels doing a constant 70-80 mph it will stay between 37 to 39 mpg.

Edited 29 January, 201511 yr by newbie69

Did they ask if you wanted stage 1 or 2 and do you know if the price of stage 2 was any more in cost?

No they didn't, and I'm sure I remember reading somewhere that if you buy stage 1, they'll apply stage 2 for free when you want. Think it was on APR's website, not sure whether it was a special offer or anything.

Don't get me wrong, I'm confident you'll notice the difference once you get chance to test it out.

I'd enquire if stage 2 is free and after maybe take them up on the offer as 210 from what I've seen from the lesser tuners is classed as a stage 1.

Edited 29 January, 201511 yr by tattyjay

Get a de cat and bigger exhaust before going stage 2 makes a huge difference and sounds much better when getting a shift on

Get a de cat and bigger exhaust before going stage 2 makes a huge difference and sounds much better when getting a shift on

I'm going for a custom map when the decat is on.

Are you getting a full system or just De-cat?

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OK, just spoke to nice guy from APR and the cost of the software doesn't cost anymore from a stage 1 to stage 2 or if you later want the stage 2.

 

However, the difference is in the hardware and possibly some difference in the software.

 

If I was fitting a new exhaust and maybe cold intake I'd hope the results would be better than just 10 bhp (including the stage 2 remap) when spending upwards of £1,000 (plus fitting). This is considering other remaps give 210 bhp without any hardware changes.

Driveability, Useability, Reliability, all very important, in all seasons of the year in the UK and for road and less so track possibly.

 

It is easy to get great readings on a Dyno with a stream of cool air blowing at a static car.

But you do not drive to work or around the roads with you Dyno Print out displayed.

 

Cars are very economic on fuel while sitting in the workshop having the issues diagnosed.

Remaps and a few hardware add ons are just a case of flashing some cash,

but basically you are tuning an engine that need a bit of toughening up.

ie its not made of chocolate, but it does sometimes throw a sicky when the achievable power is used to the full.

Totally agree but the norm is 210 i'd say with everything else standard. Obviously, APR rightly or wrongly have chose a lower map which might be more drivable but I haven't found anything that make mine non-drivable even on a snowy motorway.

& why should you driving normally on the public highway to the conditions.

7 Speed Twin Dry Clutch Automated Gearbox and some pretty standard drivetrain parts, it is not some raging monster.

 

But surely you want more than 210 bhp for something more spirited and sporting and at speeds over 60 mph or so.

Have you found it lacking on the Track & the Handling and Braking being far in advance of the power you have ?

Are you getting a full system or just De-cat?

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im having both.

Ok chaps, now I've noticed a difference! Money well spent!

can ask your APR guy for the "testpipe" file , wich is for decat / intercooler / intake made 226 on mine back then ,

can ask your APR guy for the "testpipe" file , wich is for decat / intercooler / intake made 226 on mine back then ,

I didn't have decat or an intake, but would that would have made the extra 16bhp difference for you?

Ok chaps, now I've noticed a difference! Money well spent!

Finally went above 3.5k rpm, huh?

Finally went above 3.5k rpm, huh?

Yeah! I don't think I'd really been past about 3k!

But yeah, got a chance to hold it in gear, smashed my foot down and goodbye license

Pleased with it, good fun

DMS automotive still claim 225bhp after remap

DMS automotive still claim 225bhp after remap

Just had a look on their website. Looks a professional setup but I cannot find a review anywhere for a 1.4tsi with a DMS remap. And they look really pricy reading other reviews.

There is this claim. & they are good tuners.

http://oettinger.com/en/produkte/katalog/volkswagen/polo/motor-tuning/cave-1400-tsi

Edited 5 February, 201511 yr by goneoffSKi

Cool £1,000 for the Ottinger pleasure - that is beyond taking a pi$$ in my book !

At the end just look for a tuner that can support you. Ideally a tuner that is close to home. In the end I had a choice of 2 tuners in my local area. The first was too scared to tune a 1.4TC and the second was a APR dealer. So I went for APR. Just remember you get what you pay for and what the tune is made for. Also don't think that all you need is a tune for things to work properly. A tune works best with a real cold air intake and a larger front mounted intercooler minimum which is normally what a larger tuner will have written the tune for.

 

Bonus stage 2 for ARP is normally just the cost of labour.

 

P.S. Tuning boxes are for tuning roughly, not for protecting a engine at high boost.  

Edited 6 February, 201511 yr by mmmRacer