I know exactly how bonding works (I am an electrician) the "what" was because you're post seemed unclear. Also in your response above you said that unless the towel rail was bonded you would get a shock. Even if it IS bonded, you will still recieve a shock, as there is a potential difference (voltage) between you at 240v and the towel rail at 0v so your original statement about bonding being used to keep you safe there is incorrect. If, however, ypu grabbed a gas pipe amd a water pipe that were not bonded together, you may receive a shock, as they could be at different potentials. Thos is what bonding is used to protect against, by bringing all extraneous conductive parts to the same potential.

Exactly, and I'm no electrician - I can't see why anyone might think having all conductive surfaces bonded to earth, then holding on to one would be handy if you became live, I'd say avoid at all costs, think "why are folk working on high voltages meant to use insulated steps/ladders?" - there is a clue in that!

[quote name="fabdavrav" post="4140874" timestamp="1424466920

Until someone fits one in the garden to get rid of mains buzz & Is a radio ham, hi-fi nut....................

Once again your going ott and not helping the OP with his question. We get it that you know your stuff.

Once again your going ott and not helping the OP with his question. We get it that you know your stuff.

Quite.

I'll leave the electric side to the electrician. I don't think I'll be needing any special.

Back to my original slant, most guys seem happy to route a few extra cables for me if I supply.

So do it really need shielded cable over unshielded? And where is a decent place to buy the cable + connectors/fittings? I was going to go with cat 6, does the e (as in cat 6e) matter?

So do it really need shielded cable over unshielded? And where is a decent place to buy the cable + connectors/fittings? I was going to go with cat 6, does the e (as in cat 6e) matter?

 

Shielded every time...............................E stands for "enhanced" & usually means shielded I think (can't fully remember).........get from CPC online or screwfix...............also get proper copper braided with copper foil satellite cable & use for all TV & FM DAB outlets & to your Ariel's/..........from screwfix

So do it really need shielded cable over unshielded? And where is a decent place to buy the cable + connectors/fittings? I was going to go with cat 6, does the e (as in cat 6e) matter?

 

Shielding just because you'll be running it near electrical cabling, especially as you're getting the sparky to do it. Electrical interference will lower your throughput and increase packet loss. Not as much of an issue if you're routing it separately, and away from electrical cabling.

 

CAT6e isn't a recognised standard, more a marketing slant. Has nothing to do with shielded/unshielded. Think manufacturers started using it, following on from CAT5 and CAT5e, where a difference does exist. So because there's no set standard, simply stick with shielded CAT6. You may find more stocks of CAT6A now, which allows for higher speeds. Look for 'F/UTP' in the description, the F standing for 'foil'.

 

I often use Blackbox for work-related items: https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/s/Search//CAT6

 

Or this might suit you, if you think you'll need less than 300m: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glaxio-CAT-6-F-UTP-solid-Cable-on-Reel-100m-/271622203352?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f3df1e7d8 (100m reel)

Shielded every time...............................E stands for "enhanced" & usually means shielded I think (can't fully remember).........get from CPC online or screwfix...............also get proper copper braided with copper foil satellite cable & use for all TV & FM DAB outlets & to your Ariel's/..........from screwfix

As said, don't use rg6 for tv/sat use pf100, MUCH better quality for little extra cost

Well that esculated quickly.......

There are a lot of comments that are quite correct and also a whole box of nonsense thrown in by others for good measure.

To the OP, I ask you to please seek professional advice from an electrical professional who is suitably qualified to design the systems you are considering. Then I would suggest Tendering said works to a couple of recommended electricians who are NICEIC/ECA registered.

With regards to the clean earth discussion.... Lol. the OP should not need to consider this.

There is such a thing as Clean Earth, however it is itself just a less dirty earth that is then bonded to a clean earth bar that is ultimately bonded to the main earth terminal at the origin of the supply.

Yes supplementary equipotential bonding is required and should be provided by a competent electrician. This should be as well as main equipotential bonding.

TNCS, TNS, TT, IT, PNB..... You are just confusing the OP. The OP should leave it for the professionals and those talking to him about it should dumb it down.

The main thing the OP needs to consider is.... Are the professionals he will be instructing competent, fully trained and compliant with the latest edition of the IET wiring regulations, the Building Regulationsand all applicable British Standards.

Good luck to the OP.

Seperate rings for as much as you can. Cat6 cable to central location, double up cables if you can (or at least make sure your router is near the connections - get a gigabit switch). Aerial cable to main rooms, bedroom and kitchen, again to central point for distribution. Also linked smoke alarm system with one in kitchen needing smoke and heat to go off (won't wake up the neighbourhood when you burn the toast!). Over estimate your need for electric showers and cookers too! Also factor in an external power socket and lighting and feeds to the shed/garage if you have them. Good luck!