1. Spray rims with Bowdens "Wheely Clean" (an Oz product).

 

2. While the Wheely Clean does its work, fill two buckets. Put a capful of Mothers Gold Wash in one and swirl a little bit. No point wasting the shampoo by turning it into suds.

 

3. Thorough rinsing away of the Wheely Clean - it doesn't really leave spots, and takes 95% of dirt and brake dust away.

 

4. Thorough hose down of car, which has previously had Collinite 476 applied (two coats once a year after the usual cleanse, clay and polish routine).

 

5.Wash each panel with noodle mitt, using up and down or side to side movements - no circles to avoid swirls. Rinse the mitt in the water-only bucket after each panel.

 

6. Dry by patting down with a clean microfibre cloth (you need two, generally). I will drape them over the bonnet or roof to soak up bigger patches of water. The less wiping, the less chance of adding scratches. This is why I avoid dragging the cloth across the paint the way one might drag a chamois (avoid them too). Sometimes I will use some detailer or spray-on wax to help with the process and maintain the wax finish.

 

7. Pat dry the rims, generally picking up a touch of leftover grime or brake dust. I'm not fussy enough to be too bothered about having the wheels 100% clean, as they tend not to pass a close-up inspection after the first short drive.

1. Spray rims with Bowdens "Wheely Clean" (an Oz product).

 

2. While the Wheely Clean does its work, fill two buckets. Put a capful of Mothers Gold Wash in one and swirl a little bit. No point wasting the shampoo by turning it into suds.

 

3. Thorough rinsing away of the Wheely Clean - it doesn't really leave spots, and takes 95% of dirt and brake dust away.

 

4. Thorough hose down of car, which has previously had Collinite 476 applied (two coats once a year after the usual cleanse, clay and polish routine).

No pressure washer?

No pre wash products?

5.Wash each panel with noodle mitt, using up and down or side to side movements - no circles to avoid swirls. Rinse the mitt in the water-only bucket after each panel.

I dont rate noodle mitts at all..but if it works for you...Sheepskin is far better/safer...You should have a good supply in OZ!!

 

6. Dry by patting down with a clean microfibre cloth (you need two, generally). I will drape them over the bonnet or roof to soak up bigger patches of water. The less wiping, the less chance of adding scratches. This is why I avoid dragging the cloth across the paint the way one might drag a chamois (avoid them too). Sometimes I will use some detailer or spray-on wax to help with the process and maintain the wax finish.

Never 'patted' Always wiped dry..never seen any damage done...Bit OTT for me, but if it works for you..Fine

 

7. Pat dry the rims, generally picking up a touch of leftover grime or brake dust. I'm not fussy enough to be too bothered about having the wheels 100% clean, as they tend not to pass a close-up inspection after the first short drive.

Thanks OzFabia

My thoughts (in bold)

I wouldn't have thought you would be able to cause any damage to the paintwork by rubbing when drying as by the time you're drying the car you should have removed anything that would do that, unless you have the tags against the car or have grit in the cloths. I like to use quite a few drying cloths as I find they just spread water around otherwise.

No, no pressure washer, though I do use a hose attachment for extra pressure - I've always been afraid of driving dirt into the paint, though maybe a bit paranoid.

 

No, no pre-wash products.

 

I used to use sheepskin, but the last one I had started going bald after two washes, and I haven't bothered since. May have been just one from a bad batch, so I might return to them.

 

It doesn't take long to pat dry in this climate.... 

You wont drive dirst into the paint..Quite the opposite

No, no pressure washer, though I do use a hose attachment for extra pressure - I've always been afraid of driving dirt into the paint, though maybe a bit paranoid.

 

No, no pre-wash products.

 

I used to use sheepskin, but the last one I had started going bald after two washes, and I haven't bothered since. May have been just one from a bad batch, so I might return to them.

 

It doesn't take long to pat dry in this climate.... 

How do you wash your mitt? If you wash your sheepskin in the washing machine then it will go bald quickly, I learned this the hard way after forgetting that I'd been told before (sorry Chris, so much info so little memory) but my others have lasted just by washing them out thoroughly with warm water and leaving them to dry.

I dont use snow foam that often , just good rinse down with the jet washer , then good shampoo , rinse off and leave to dry

 

Tend to do it every three of four weeks

I wash mine through with clean water and put it in the spin dryer ( I have a small one in the garage..Invaluable)

Then fluff it up by hand and leave to dry naturally..Lasts a long time..Many many washes..possibly hundreds!!

Im not keen on the autoglym shampoo find it leaves loads of residue what about you?

 

Normal Bodywork Shampoo Conditioner has rinse aides and gloss which might be causing the residue if not rinsed off quick enough. They now do one which is just a shampoo

http://www.autoglym.com/products/products/bodywork-shampoo

I'm a Nivea man.

Carbolic for me!!!

My weekly (when its vaguely warm) routine in Winter:

> Power wash bodywork and wheel arches

> Snow foam bodywork and wheel arches

> power wash to rinse off foam

> Wash bodywork with Autoglym bodywork shampoo conditioner

> rinse with hose

> dry with Autoglym drying towels

> Clean glass with Autoglym glass polish

> Wash wheels with left over shampoo from wash bucket

> dress tyres

Total time: Approx 1.5 hours

Summer:

> move car into my parents double garage to keep it cool and out of the sun)

> Spray Autoglym active insect remover over affected areas and leave to soak for a few mins

> rinse bodywork with a clean watering can (10l one from b&q is perfect for when there's a hose pipe ban)

> wash bodywork + glass

> rinse with the remaining water

> dry body work and glass (being very conscious not to let the sun leave water spots)

> clean glass

> clean wheels with leftover shampoo

> dry wheels

> dress tyres

Total time: Approx 1 hour and only 1 watering can required if you use it effectively.

There's no point rushing as all you will do is miss bits and regret it later

> rinse bodywork with a clean watering can (10l one from b&q is perfect for when there's a hose pipe ban)

 

Who would know if you were using a hose if you are doing it in the garage?

How do you wash your mitt? If you wash your sheepskin in the washing machine then it will go bald quickly, I learned this the hard way after forgetting that I'd been told before (sorry Chris, so much info so little memory) but my others have lasted just by washing them out thoroughly with warm water and leaving them to dry.

 

The washing machine might be my mistake, but I'm sure I would have done the same with the previous one.

what tyre shine are people using?

what tyre shine are people using?

 

Gyeon Tire for me

Good? ^^

Good? ^^

Yes very!

 

also use megs endurance and auto finesse revive

Can anyone recommend a good cleaner to get rid of all the black tar spots and general grime that tends to stick to the bottom of the doors and boot/bumper ?

The autoglym has worked very well for me everytime!!!

Can anyone recommend a good cleaner to get rid of all the black tar spots and general grime that tends to stick to the bottom of the doors and boot/bumper ?

 

For tar you need a tar remover - I recommend Autosmart Tardis

For removing general grime look at Power Maxed TFR - they are a sponsor on this site.

Great thanks

Can anyone recommend a good cleaner to get rid of all the black tar spots and general grime that tends to stick to the bottom of the doors and boot/bumper ?

 

I use Auto Finesse OlbliTARate for tar spots, and the occasional use of Citrus Power for general grime, though it is rather expensive per use so only use it when I need to

The autoglym has worked very well for me everytime!!!

Another vote for AG Intensive Tar remover. Also works on sticker residue and is safe to use on interior cloth as well!

Who would know if you were using a hose if you are doing it in the garage?

Tap is round the back of the house so have to trail a hose round the front which is very obvious.

Tap is round the back of the house so have to trail a hose round the front which is very obvious.

You need to be more stealthy, get the plumbing stuff out and get a tap in your garage.