Major sound system upgrade

[FabFabFabia]

Thanks for the reply. What does MOST mean? You're right about being virtually nothing online about this sound system, I even emailed Canton who said to contact Skoda, a useless response. It's my understanding that the underseat Canton amp's input is a single optical from the head unit and then the various amp outputs are fed to the front, rear, centre and sub speakers. Someone else in this group also hated the Canton sound but their studio installer said the amp needs to remain in circuit so they patched in another amp after the Canton amp's outputs and installed new speakers for a much better sound. I have an installer coming tomorrow to shift the front tweeters away from the A-pillars into the doors for better imaging ans less splashy treble, and I might see if he can disconnect the centre speaker which also harms the sound and narrows the stereo width. Attached is a pic of the back of the Canton amp.

[cheezemonkhai]

Glad I just have basic mib..

[JohnnyType2]

MOST is the optical out for MIB to the canton amp.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOST_Bus

[JohnnyType2]

the canton uses a plastic optical fibre. you only need the canton connected if you want to run the sub controls from the headunit. Are you keeping the weak sub or going for something bigger?

Edited 24 October, 2018 by JohnnyType2

[FabFabFabia]

20 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

the canton uses a plastic optical fibre. you only need the canton connected if you want to run the sub controls from the headunit. Are you keeping the weak sub or going for something bigger?

I'm trying to find the cause of the occasional harshness in upper midrange sounds like strings and female vocals that occurs whatever the audio source. I am doing improvements one step at a time because I don't want to mess anything up. Tomorrow an installer is relocating the existing tweeters into the door panel by the door handle (where they appear to be located in all Skoda's except the Canton Karoq). If he can easily disconnect the centre speaker I'll get him to do that too. I'd love to upgrade the Canton front door speakers but on Canton's website they're specced as being 8 ohms whereas my preferred choices (Audison Voce) are only available in 4 ohms. Someone on this forum had their Octavia Canton system replaced with better components but the installer said they retained the Canton amp because the replacement amp wouldn't understand the digital input it was receiving from the head unit so they wired in a summing amp, another power amp and new speakers to the Canton amp's analog out cables. The Canton Karoq boot subwoofer is not too bad actually, but not quite loud enough for me, and not as punchy as my preferred choice that I had put in my previous Fabia (Alpine SWE-815). If I could be sure that everything would work OK and none of the Karoq's  safety or electrical systems have been compromised I'd totally replace the Canton system in a heartbeat. See the attached images for the Octavia Canton amp which seem to indicate it is very much tied into the car's system.

[Robertinskis]

Can someone  explain me how to conect aftermarket subwoofer to original cables?I want to use audison 4 omh subwoofer so what color wires to use for 4 omh conection?

[langers2k]

10 minutes ago, Robertinskis said:

Can someone  explain me how to conect aftermarket subwoofer to original cables?I want to use audison 4 omh subwoofer so what color wires to use for 4 omh conection?

 

What car and headunit do you have?

 

Your profile suggests a MK2 Octavia which has completely different headunits to a MK3.

[Robertinskis]

No I have 2018 skoda octavia rs

[Robertinskis]

How to get 4 omh from 4 wires or I have to conect them together 2- and 2+?

[Robertinskis]

So no ideas?

[langers2k]

33 minutes ago, Robertinskis said:

So no ideas?

 

Looking at your picture:

 

I think you have a canton sound system with a separate amp, therefore the factory wiring for the sub (R211) is probably this:

 

That has +/- marking for both the L and R voice coils which should help.

 

However, I have no idea what ohm speakers the factory amp (maybe 81A035223) is designed to drive. Looking online, there is nothing obvious. You need to check the original subwoofers impedance to make sure it matches the new one.

 

Given your questions, it might be worth having a chat with a local audio installer to make sure you don't damage anything...

[Robertinskis]

It 8 omh subwofer dual coil 8 omh.  chanels are 2x8 omh or 1x4omh just how to connect right to make 4 omh to new subwofer 😀

[langers2k]

That page suggests the original is a 2x8 ohm and you say the replacement is a 2x8 ohm...? Therefore the wiring should be identical.

 

You can wire the two voicecoils in parallel to get a 1x4 ohm sub. Not sure why you would given there should be 4 wires and the system is already designed for a 2x8 ohm sub.

 

Am I missing something obvious here?

[Robertinskis]

No I want to connect new sub which is 4 omhs so question is how to make 4 omhs from 2x8 omhs original conection?

[langers2k]

In theory, connecting the two + and two - wires should create a 1x4 ohm paralleled amp - I don't believe it's supported.

 

Take a read of this: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/433136-inside-canton-amplifier/

 

 

From what I can tell, most people with a 4ohm sub add a separate amp for it.

[Internetdivisor]

As I also posted in the thread above, I will also leave the info here given that is so hard to find propper info on this "Upgrade" or retrofit:

 

What you need to do it OE Style is:

 

1. Audi 80A035382A* take care for the code because 80A035382(Without the A) is on 40W and 2Ohm single channel

2. Skoda 5E5867427P for replacing the empty space after the removal of the Canton Sub Box

3. 191972714 Female plug (You plug the male connector that goes now into your Canton Sub)

4. 7n0972704 Male connector plug (That goes into the B&O Subwoofer).

 

Take care of the pinout to keep the phase correct and enjoy the bass that should have been there from the start. There is no comparison between the old sub and new. You really feel that you have the 200W in the trunk, no distortion, sub volume can be kept at +9 without any issues, at ANY volume level.

 

I also suggest to add some sound insulation in and on/around the subwoofer box. This will remove the rattling and plastic resonance sound and make the deeper frequencies clearer.

 

Enjoy!

[KoenG]

On 23/09/2023 at 08:33, Internetdivisor said:

As I also posted in the thread above, I will also leave the info here given that is so hard to find propper info on this "Upgrade" or retrofit:

 

What you need to do it OE Style is:

 

1. Audi 80A035382A* take care for the code because 80A035382(Without the A) is on 40W and 2Ohm single channel

2. Skoda 5E5867427P for replacing the empty space after the removal of the Canton Sub Box

3. 191972714 Female plug (You plug the male connector that goes now into your Canton Sub)

4. 7n0972704 Male connector plug (That goes into the B&O Subwoofer).

 

Take care of the pinout to keep the phase correct and enjoy the bass that should have been there from the start. There is no comparison between the old sub and new. You really feel that you have the 200W in the trunk, no distortion, sub volume can be kept at +9 without any issues, at ANY volume level.

 

I also suggest to add some sound insulation in and on/around the subwoofer box. This will remove the rattling and plastic resonance sound and make the deeper frequencies clearer.

 

Enjoy!

Hi, I'm having the same issues with my Kodiaq. There is also a 2x 8Ohm sub that I'm not satisfied with. This will also fit I assume?

[Internetdivisor]

If you have it in the spare, yes. Keep in mind that is bulkier so if you have the plastic containing the spare kit tools on top of the actual sub (Like in Octavia RS with Canton), you will have to find another space to store them.

In rest it is plyg and play and not Plug and Pray

[KoenG]

40 minutes ago, Internetdivisor said:

If you have it in the spare, yes. Keep in mind that is bulkier so if you have the plastic containing the spare kit tools on top of the actual sub (Like in Octavia RS with Canton), you will have to find another space to store them.

In rest it is plyg and play and not Plug and Pray

This picture is not mine but it's the same. No tools on top. So should fit. Thanks. I just finished with deadening the space below and the wheel itself   I've tested what lot of people had with the Octavia that the phase/polarity switch would result in better bass. But with the Kodiaq it was wired correct and reversing did no do the trick. So maybe I'm planning to upgrade everything with a dsp amp but first I will try this.

[Internetdivisor]

Yes, you have the big spare, I have the sff 18 inch.

Leave the phase as it is and just swap it. For 50-80 Quid it's just for fun

 

Through the years I've had Hifonics, Jbl, Hertz etc. and I can state that the B&O is perfect in Canton if you don't want just "boom boom" but balanced sound. 

For better understanding, this is one of my "late" subwoofers https://www.digitec.ch/en/s1/product/hifonics-atlas-atl12bp-1200-w-car-hi-fi-subwoofers-5596562

 

The difference in sound is obvious and you can check the other threads on Canton to see the feedbacks from those who did it.

Also, you can try to fit a 3X4ohm sub from Match into the enclosure but it really depends on the taste and budget. The Match will shake your steering wheel levers but will overpower the speakers.

 

Finally after searching the net for more than 3 years I can say that I found what I needed in both of my Skodas, and that is the B&O. I am looking into modifying the enclosure for the Match sub but it's just for fun since I don't really feel the need for more punchier bass.

[KoenG]

I'm only searching for more deeper bass but should be clean and punchy. The level of volume is not interesting for me. Just want more body. I'm also looking for replacement of the front mid drivers but the are 8 Ohms, so they are difficult to find. If you know any?

Step further would be placing the Match 10UP DSP behind the Canton amp, then all can be replaced and even new sub. Looking at the JL Audio then. But first I will start with the B&O  Looking forward to installing it.

[Internetdivisor]

2 hours ago, KoenG said:

I'm only searching for more deeper bass but should be clean and punchy. The level of volume is not interesting for me. Just want more body. I'm also looking for replacement of the front mid drivers but the are 8 Ohms, so they are difficult to find. If you know any?

Step further would be placing the Match 10UP DSP behind the Canton amp, then all can be replaced and even new sub. Looking at the JL Audio then. But first I will start with the B&O  Looking forward to installing it.

Go for B&O and we will talk later.

[KoenG]

Ordered one 👍🏼

as I maybe want to replace the front door speakers also. They are 6.5” 8 ohm, do you know if it’s mid bass, mid range speaker? Can’t find any specs. 

[Internetdivisor]

Sadly no, I have also searched for front speakers some time ago and didn't find any decent 8Ohm. The only way to go is a separate DSP and move to 4Ohm 😞

[KoenG]

I see it's mid bass, all time the time is was in front of me

I've been looking and found some options.

- Dayton Audio MB620-8

- Dayton Audio Designer DSA175-8

- Dayton Audio DC160-8 Bass-midwoofer

- Taramp's 6.5" MB 400s

- Taramp's 6.5" FH 300s 8 Ohms

 

etc. 

 

I've contacted the Dayton distributor here to see what they would advise.