Folks,

 

I am hoping to take delivery of my new TSI VRS in the near future and wondered....

 

Does anybody run their new cars in these days and do they go back to the dealer for an oil change at 1000 miles?

 

I always did this with new company cars but haven't had a new car for years.

 

Cheers

 

Only if you want to waste your money, even if you are buying a keeper.

Spend the cost of changing oil and filter on a tank or 2 of fuel rather. IMO.

 

At least 'Run the car in'  Or 'Drive it in' as Skoda call it.

That is the car, Tyres, Brakes, Suspension the whole car.

 

If you were changing Oil early maybe at 5,000 miles, or go for Fixed Oil & Filter Servicing and at 10,000 miles 

and not go Variable Servicing Periods.

 

The Modern Full Synthetic Oil is often better than Volkswagen Group Oil Filters.

 

enjoy the car.

Only if you want to waste your money, even if you are buying a keeper.

Spend the cost of changing oil and filter on a tank or 2 of fuel rather. IMO.

At least 'Run the car in' Or 'Drive it in' as Skoda call it.

That is the car, Tyres, Brakes, Suspension the whole car.

If you were changing Oil early maybe at 5,000 miles, or go for Fixed Oil & Filter Servicing and at 10,000 miles

and not go Variable Servicing Periods.

The Modern Full Synthetic Oil is often better than Volkswagen Group Oil Filters.

enjoy the car.

Would that be same for a diesel vrs mate?

It would be about the same with every modern Euro 5 or Euro 6 Emission Internal Combustion Passenger Car vehicle 

in Europe.

Climate, Style of use etc taken into account.

 

You pay £40 plus for oil retail,

its not just to use for 1,000 miles or so then dispose of no matter how environmental friendly recycling is.

 

Let the engine bed in, and then decide on how you use your car how much you spend on Oil & Filter Services 

or Correct Service and Maintenance which is more than the Servicing that Skoda Dealership do for 

£140, £250 and more when doing Minor, Major , Minor etc, Inspection, Fluid Levels and Report.

Last time I had an inspection service like that was back in 1997 with Peugeot. None of my Skoda's have had nor needed this.

 

As you would expect from a quality product!

Originally a different oil was used to bed God engines in,nwhich gad to be replaced at around 1,000 mikes. Modern oil and engines don't need this anymore, but you still need to fed the engine, brakes and tyres in

Still with the likes of a Nissan GTR.

But then that is a very different type of car / engine.

Tolerances of modern engines means that early oil changes are not required, older cars had the free 1500 mile oul changes done to flush out any bits of bearing white metal etc entrapoed in the oil during initial bedding in, also oil quality is much better also,i changed the oil early on an engine I built for my 1983 rs1600i escort, for this reason, but on my vrs I dont bother,as said use the money on fuel and have some fun with the car

Tolerances of modern engines means that early oil changes are not required, older cars had the free 1500 mile oul changes done to flush out any bits of bearing white metal etc entrapoed in the oil during initial bedding in, also oil quality is much better also,i changed the oil early on an engine I built for my 1983 rs1600i escort, for this reason, but on my vrs I dont bother,as said use the money on fuel and have some fun with the car

That's the plan - when it's run in.

 

Thanks for all the posts

If you read this subject in Honest John's motoring column, he actually suggests that if you take it too easy on the new engines that it is worse than revving it freely. From memory it was linked with the cylinder coatings. As I didn't thrash mine I will lept you know in 40000 miles if I was wrong....

Steady revs aren't good for new engines, they need worked up and down the rev range so as not to polish a lip into the cylinder wall from the pistons going up the exact same point at the same temperature for miles and miles on end.

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Some of the best modern engines that go the longest and behave the best you get have been thrashed from leaving the Factory,

Onto the Boat, off the Boat, at the Delivery, at the PDI, as a Demonstrator, or as a Hire Car.

 

How many engines are you opening now and finding a lip.?

You will always get a lip on the cylinders by design, as its the highest spot the top ring goes to,and a piston ring will always give an outward force, the main weakness in the setup is the oil control ring, which can fail at a lower milage,i have recently rebuilt a 25 yr old ford cvh engine that had covered 90k, and that had a barely noticable lip, but it burnt oil because the oil ring had stuck in the piston groove, I think the above post is spot on, but the engine should be brought up to temp moderately, to keep oil temp even to preserve the big end and main shells, i gave mine 500 miles of working up to the point of driving it like I stole it

Edited 6 July, 201510 yr by cortina63

Still with the likes of a Nissan GTR.

But then that is a very different type of car / engine.

 

Whats the issue on the GTR? Its a fairly simple beast. Evolution of the  VQ35 in the 350Z. There certainly weren't any special issues when I was playing with them...

I think Audi R8s are driven off the line and taken pretty much up to max power out on a track somewhere... dunno why.

 

The only lip you should see around the TRRP would be carbon, not parent metal .

The only issue with the GTR is that when you take the car in for its 1,000 mile Review, Adjustment & Inspection which is done free usually some establishments / techs will suggest / advice a Oil & Filter change, and some do that at no cost.

It is not required, but some still choose to have it done.

Oooh, mine's now done about 3700 miles - I'd better give it a good thrash soon as so far I've been mostly driving it around like a baby pram.................

Last time I had an inspection service like that was back in 1997 with Peugeot. None of my Skoda's have had nor needed this.

 

As you would expect from a quality product!

I remember doing these albeit in a Citroen dealer so same engine, the good old 1,000 mile check however the oil was never changed, just topped up if required. No sooner had they left as brand new cars and then they were back again for checks that the owner should do regularly anyway!

I never run and engine in, just enjoy it from the dealer.

Every engine is stress tested on a bench before being dropped in to your car. I just make sure it's warm before a good thrashing.

Steady revs aren't good for new engines, they need worked up and down the rev range so as not to polish a lip into the cylinder wall from the pistons going up the exact same point at the same temperature for miles and miles on end.

Some of the best modern engines that go the longest and behave the best you get have been thrashed from leaving the Factory, Onto the Boat, off the Boat, at the Delivery, at the PDI, as a Demonstrator, or as a Hire Car.

What's that lot got to do with running at steady revs? They're the complete opposite of running at steady revs and should therefore help to avoid a lip forming. Poaaibly they might cause other problems though.

 

Personally I'm planning to avoid using the basic cruise control during the running in perdiod precisely to avoid steady revs for long periods, as commonly recommended. Running for long periods at steady revs is one reason why engines adapted for non-road use (such as marine or rail applications) are usually derated.

Edited 7 July, 201510 yr by Rodge

1100 miles into my TDI and have not been especially mindful of any running in period except not to thrash it from cold (out of standard mechanical sympathy)... mind you it's not 'mine'... ;-) 

 

i have found that recently my economy seems to be getting a little better... though i can't isolate variables sufficiently to attribute that to running the engine in. 

Edited 7 July, 201510 yr by vanscm

Where is all the running at steady revs coming from, does this mean do not batter it up the motorway at 70 mph for lots of miles while

you have a loaded car or towing a caravan.

Well that seems kind of obvious with a new car with new parts, tight brakes etc.

 

Were people have National Speed Limits of 60 mph and need to drive real roads, a constant 60 mph will certainly not have your factory filled and well lubricated new engine Glazing the Bores, forming lips or any such nonsense.

& unless you have lots of miles of no traffic you are unlikely to be at the constant speed for that long.

 

Pistons go up and down in the same plane (direction) no matter what RPM you are doing and once you are up to speed and in a high gear your RPM will drop, your oil will be at the same temperature, and the oil is not grinding paste.

The Bearings are Lubricated, the Oil Spray Jets (Squirters) are doing their thing under the pistons, 

the engine is running efficiently, and not under constant load, in fact at 60 or 70 mph is probably using half its available output, maybe 80 bhp max.  at 30-40 mph probably 30-40 bhp.

Unstressed engines in the majority of situations, and the pistons just up and down at speeds from 1,500 - 4,000 rpm.

No lips, not scores in bores, no glazing, just all working as designed, no slapping lose pistons or rings.

 

Each to there own, and there own way of doing things, but i have the feeling that not that many 

have the heads off car engines these days or know that much about engine internals.

 

george

Edited 7 July, 201510 yr by goneoffSKi

Personally I never run a car in as such, I just drive sensibly and with mechanical sympathy all the time. No reving the guts out of it. I do, however believe in frequent oil changes. I change at 5k kms, 10k kms and then the dealer service at 15k kms. After that it will be every 7.5k kms. This regime has served me well with all my new cars over the last 40 years, never any problems. I traded my Toyota Corolla with 184k kms for my Octavia in January 2015, and its engine was spotless under the cam cover, used no oil and was as economical as it was when I got it new. By the way the Octavia I think is wonderful so far at 13k kms, I hope it does as well as the Corolla.

Regards

Roger

I'm with Roger.  If you are confident and have basic spaner skills and a few tools(a set of ramps, one large socket, a 2 pence coin, and a large drip tray/bowl) you can change the oil and filter quite easily. You can get the right spec oil for about £40 and the filter is just a few pounds.

I did an early change at 2 k miles.  The oil that came out was black, i was surprised at that.  1st dealer service was recently done at 7.2 k miles.  I think this year might be covering 10k and if so I'll do another change myself at 12.5 ish.

 

Is it OTT? Maybe, but it didn't cost much, was easy and gives piece of mind, plus I enjoy working on the car.  If I didn't enjoy/didn't know how/didn't have the tools I'd not bother and I definitely won't tut tut at owners that don't do early oil changes.

 

As for running in, there is a lot of conflicting advice out there!  There are a few things that almost everyone agrees on:

Doing much special is hardly needed on modern engines but DO warm the engine before pressing it, always

Varied load and revs over the first few k are desired

 

The arguments come in'be gentle vs drive it like you stole it'.   Personally I see some logic in early (first 50 miles) high load, full throttle.  It's about getting piston rings to seat.

Edited 7 July, 201510 yr by neiln

Mine had an oil and filter @1000 miles, then will have another @5000 miles and every 5000 miles after that (10k 20k and 30k with be with the dealer as I paid £199 for a 3 year service plan).

 

But that's just me as I've always looked after my performance cars like that (Mk1 VRS, Sapphire Cosworth 4x4, UR Quattro etc the list goes on).

 

Each to their own.