Hello Fabia Mk1 Experts!

 

I am looking to buy a Fabia as the family second car (the missus runs a Zafira for the 7 seats/caravan pulling). Actually it'll be the third, but the Favorit restoration doesn't really count as it's not going to get used for commuting, and it may never pass another MOT. You can follow my bungling attempts at fixing it up here; http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/345745-my-first-project-gaz-the-favorit/ if you're feeling nosey. Anyway, I have a limited choice due to budget and Northern Irish location, and it has to be a trade seller as the father-in-law is footing the bill (temporarily, I hope). 

 

My question is, do I aim for low mileage or age as the deciding factor:

 

For example:

 

This one is oldest but has very low mileage: http://www.usedcarsni.com/2004-Skoda-Fabia-CLASSIC-12V-HTP-ONLY-43K-1-OWNER-SERVICED-146420820

 

This one is newer, but has higher mileage: http://www.usedcarsni.com/2005-Skoda-Fabia-CLASSIC-HTP-146924280

 

This one is newest, but has highest miles: http://www.usedcarsni.com/2007-Skoda-Fabia-CLASSIC-HTP-146829908

 

(There are a few others, but these three illustrate my dilemma best.)

 

The three cars are near enough identical and well within budget. There doesn't seem to be much history with any of them, so I plan to use any change from my available £2k to get my tame mechanic to change the belts and give it a proper service so at least I know what's what.

 

Sorry if this is a bit banal, but it's a lot of someone else's cash to spend, and I'm nervous.

 

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

Jonny

Pick the first one. Not because of mileage, but because it's the only one of the three that is the 12-valve 64bhp variant. Approx 20% more power, and from what I can gather, less likely to cook its valves/valve seats than the 6-valve 54bhp ones.

Thanks for that. I hadn't realised. Explains the slight difference in insurance groups, but worth it for the better engine.

Jon

No problem.

It's chain timed, rather than belt, so no replacement interval.

The 12-valve does feature Exhaust Gas Recirculation, which the 6-valve doesn't, and this can fail (ours needed replacement soon after purchase, at 7 years old/100k miles approx., not huge cost).

 

General things to check with a view to improving price-negotiating leverage:

 

Obviously check that there aren't any warning lights on in the clocks area when running, and that the battery light does come on at ignition on, and go off again once running.

 

Check the bottoms of the door cards and lowest painted areas of the inside of the doors for tidemarks/signs that water has been leaking into the cabin. The sealing arrangement on these cars isn't awesome. (DIY fix easy enough)

 

Check that the AC works, you should get very cold air pretty soon after switching it on, and no hissing noise from deep inside the dash. Edit: oh, and check that the cabin fan makes air move on all four settings.

 

Check the rear screen washer (push right hand stalk away from you and hold there), very common for these to pee screenwash on the ground or into the cabin(!) instead of at the rear screen, because of 'cunning' modular design of the pipework, with auto-disconnecting connections. (Fix is easy though)

 

Listen out for prominent rattling noises at cold start, which might indicate a failing chain tensioner.

 

With steering fully one way, then the other, eyeball the rear bushes that the wishbones go into. These tend to fail on all mk1s given time and opportunity. Major cracks in the rubber webs suggest replacement is required. If you search "console bushes" in this forum you should get some pictures. Take photos if you're not sure and post them on here for opinions.

That's dead on. Thanks.

 

I'm used to buying old rust buckets for a few quid (and a few months MOT), but less experienced buying semi-decent second handers. Good to know what to look for, especially when spending someone else's money.

 

Good to know Skoda have worked hard to improve the sealing on their entry level hatchbacks... Hahahaha! My Favorit has an unxeplained puddle in the driver's footwell after it rains, which I have tried to simulate with a hosepipe in order to diagnose, but with no success!

 

Many thanks.

 

Jon

 

Hi,

If you need any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line.

Regards,

Dan.

I can see that all three are petrol 1.2l engines which is presumably by choice.

 

If it were my money, I would be looking for the best 2004 or 2005 1.9 sdi that I could find.

 

I have seen various threads from poor soles with what they believe are designed-in problems with the 3 cyl petrol and diesel engines and, for that matter, with the post 2005 1.9 tdi (i.e. 105 hp).

 

On the other hand, I think with regular maintenance you should be able to do >300k miles with either SDI or 1.9 TDI diesel.

 

Steve

Edited 4 August, 201510 yr by poiuytre111

Alway buy a car based on history and condition, mileage and age are not good indicators of a car's potential reliability.

Sorry for the long silence, and many thanks for your replies.

I missed out on the 12v above, and the others weren't in great nick.

We did buy a car based on history and condition in the end, from as trusted a dealer as we know. One previous owner, very low mileage, almost immaculate condition inside and out, looked after its whole life by the same mechanic (our own guy), and a very healthy (25%) discount on displayed price. Just too good an opportunity to turn down given the age/condition of our bigger vehicle. I don't even like it all that much, but I could have waited and waited for the "right" one and ended up using the bus until I retired.

 

Unfortunately it's not a Skoda...

 

    :zzz: