original plastic isn't enough elastic for winter season, one broke down after 20 months :(

 

 

and hello first rust :(

 

find stainless steal screws were mission impossible,
there are offered diameters 4.2; 4.8 and 5.5mm, but originals are 5.0mm
took 4.8 and painted heads

 

ordered replacement from Ali, not mounted yet
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Molded-Car-Mud-Flaps-For-Skoda-Superb-3-B8-2016-2017-2018-Mudflaps-Splash-Guards-Mud/32843930127.html

 

Does anyone have the part number for the expanding nut things in the front wings on the current car?

 

The online parts catalogues seem to stop in 2016, however the part then was 6N0809966A

 

This is showing on one catalogue as discontinued in 2011, and similarly discontinued elsewhere

 

 

On 10/12/2015 at 18:19, Pete T said:

Today I've finally got around to fitting the mud flaps. It was pretty straightforward. I'll describe the process as best I can. This guide should be used in conjunction with the instructions on the packaging.

 

Tools used:

• Torx 25 socket bit & driver attachment
• Drill with 4mm & 7mm bits
• Pointed mini screwdriver or similar, needs to be less than 2mm wide
• Water pump pliers or similar
• Torch
• Something to lie/kneel on

 

Front nearside - (Without removing the wheel).

1. Turn the steering to full left hand lock to ease access.
2. Offer the front nearside mud flap up to the car to understand where the fixings are. There are fixing points on the vertical part of the wheelarch liner and one underneath. You will create a fourth fixing point by drilling into the plastic liner.
3. Use the Torx bit/driver to remove the two Torx screws on the vertical part of the wheelarch liner.
4. Look underneath and you will see what looks like a screw head, this is actually a plastic push fitting and you'll need your pointed mini screwdriver or similar to push the centre pin through to release the fitting. The pin you've pushed through can be recovered if you wish but both the pin and the push fitting are now redundant.
5. Now take one of the two metal speed clips provided and slide this onto the metalwork of the car body in line with where you've just removed the push fitting from. You'll have to pull the liner back a bit to do this, it's a bit fiddly. Ensure that you fit the clip the correct way up, the larger hole needs to be facing the floor.
6. Offer up the mud flap and put the new Torx screw supplied through the hole underneath, this should locate with the speed clip you've just fitted. Tighten the screw finger tight for now.
7. Replace the two original Torx screws through the other holes on the vertical of the mudflap. Ensure you're happy with the alignment before tightening both, then tighten the screw on the underside.
8. Now you need to drill the plastic wheelarch liner through the one remaining hole on the mud flap. At this point I found it easier to turn the steering to full right hand lock which allowed me to get the drill behind the wheel to drill in a straight line. I drilled a 4mm hole first, then used the 7mm bit to make the final size hole.
9. Insert the push fitting through the hole in the mud flap and into the hole just drilled, push it home tight.
10. That's one fitted, repeat for the front offside.

 

Rear - (Without removing the wheels).

1. Offer up the mud flap to see where the fixings will be.
2. There are two Torx screws underneath which are easily accessible, remove these.
3. I couldn't fit my Torx driver between the screw & the tyre face to remove the two vertical Torx screws. Rather than remove the wheel, I held the Torx socket bit in the mouth of a pair of water pump pliers and used this to start undoing the screw, then removed it by hand. A pair of pliers would probably do the same job.
4. Then offer up the mud flap, fix the inner most underside screw first, finger tight.
5. The top of the mud flap has a 'hook' which needs to be persuaded to go behind the fold of the bumper, it will go with a little gentle persuasion.
6. Replace the two vertical Torx screws using the pliers to tighten up.
7. Replace the second underside screw and tighten the first screw properly
8. That's it, repeat for the other side.

Please note that the rear mud flaps also come with speed clips and screws for the underside which UK cars (well mine at least) do not require.

 

Apologies for the lack of photos but hopefully someone will find this useful. 

 

Cheers.

Pete

Great post. 

Front and rear flaps now fitted without removing any wheels.

 Front were a piece of cake.

Rear were challenging to get the hook of the mud flap to fit in behind the the wheel arch. Many expletives needed in place of gentle persuasion! 

Look good. 

Edited 6 May, 20188 yr by kevin defty
Updated

On 21/04/2018 at 08:23, MartiniB said:

and hello first rust :(

Has anyone tried a blob of silicone on the thread and over the head?

 

That is what I normally do when fixing on metal roofs for buildings 

 

Ferdinand