Has anyone experienced a rattle in there drivers door?

Over a bumpy road it sounds like the lock mechanism or window runners are lose and the door rattles. Can't pin it down to what it is.

Has anyone had this?

My drivers seat has startedes to clunk are a journey too, this is because it's not clicking in on one side on the runner.

It's a my16 vrs estate.

Does it happen around 1700/1800 rpm?

Nothing yet, but I'm only on week four.

Mines in the seatbelt height adjuster mechanism. Right by my ear. Man I hate rattles....

Might be the door card plastic rattling against the metal part of door frame, mine used to rattle especially when resting your arm on top. The soft side of sticky back velcro carefully wedged between the door card and frame taking up the slack worked for me, and I trimmed it so not on view, but be careful not to scratch the paint, use a lollipop stick to push it down the gap!

Does it happen when the window is not fully closed?

Had/have this to. External gloss plastic trim creaking. The sellotape holding It on was low quality.

I've noticed it when the window is open or closed. It's more when driving on a bumpy road. I'm assuming it's the door but could be the seatbelt adjuster as some one has said.

If I open the door and bang it with my hand, I can't seem to recreate it.

Quite a few posts on here about similar noise with variety of possible causes & solutions. Mine started to rattle on unsurfaced roads & was gradually getting worse, one suggested cure was to spray the door catch mechanism with lubricant, seems to have worked so far.

Fastern the  Front Passengerside seat belt into it's clip by the seat. The red bit you push on the fastener to release the belt rattled like mad on my Vrs, putting the seat belt in stopped it. Complete clip replaced under warranty.  Rattles/noises aren't always where you think there coming from

I've had a similar problem. When driving I could hear a rattling sound coming from driver's door, especially on bumpy roads. I could hear the sound by shaking the door.

Took it to a garage and they changed the front driver's door striker (not sure if that's the right word as I speak french :/). Seems to have fixed the problem (even if the work has been poorly done leaving marks on the door furniture...).

Now passenger door is beginning to rattle when I listen to music (with Canton sound system) :(

I'll take it to another garage (first one I tried did poor work) and see if it comes from the same cause

I thought I had a rattle from the passengers door very annoying until I found

my wife had left a tin od mint imperial in the door compartment.

SILLY ME

Try wrapping some electrical tape around the silver metal door latch that is affixed to the bodywork.  I had a very annoying rattle from my previous Superb.  It went back to the dealer twice, they remove and refitted the door trims and adjusted the locks bit it was only when I wrapped tape around the door latch that the noise disappeared.

 

Glen

I had a rattle the other day. Tracked it down to the end panel of the dash on the drivers side. Gave it a wack with my hand and it seems to have stopped.

My O3 was rattle-free during the first 70k kms.

Then the window switch started to rattle (could be stopped by knee).

I removed the switch and applied some PTFE tape. Switch rattled in it's housing and housing rattled in door card. Now it's stiff and quiet.

 

Second one: music related rattle, started somewhere between 70-80k kms.

At 90k kms was really bad, 1/3 volume was enough to start it.

Source: door controller PCB rattle in it's housing, fixed with loom tape.

Stupid design as the controller mounted on a big plastic service cover which is pumped by the bass (I also have Canton).

Rattling definitely stopped after fix. Now I can listen to music as loud as I want.

 

 

 

Before and after video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvxCwly-Hek

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAJ_eTafck8

 

I still have a third one which appears only on bumpy roads. Not loud but annoying.

I thought this noise was also the door controller but the answer is no. :(

When I test-drove the car with removed door card the noise was still there so this must be something in the door.

It seems that my door panel will come off again... :S

Edited 30 October, 201510 yr by aki78

Rear parcel shelf, rear seat area, headlining at rear of sunroof..... had less rattles in 10 year old Fords than my 15k mile 2 year old Octy.

 

To be fair it rattled from day one but it's a lease so I just left it.  Not very well built at all.

I just accept the car rattles a bit...I dont think ive had a car for years that hasnt to some extent.

Bits breaking/falling off them do **** me off though but its been perfect in that regard.

My month old GTDs dashboard rattles already....also has three small but down to primer stone chips above the rear drivers arch from something flicking up at it at some stage...thats ****ed me off more than any rattle...havent even washed it yet haha

My O3 was rattle-free during the first 70k kms.

Then the window switch started to rattle (could be stopped by knee).

I removed the switch and applied some PTFE tape. Switch rattled in it's housing and housing rattled in door card. Now it's stiff and quiet.

 

 

 

Second one: music related rattle, started somewhere between 70-80k kms.

At 90k kms was really bad, 1/3 volume was enough to start it.

Source: door controller PCB rattle in it's housing, fixed with loom tape.

Stupid design as the controller mounted on a big plastic service cover which is pumped by the bass (I also have Canton).

Rattling definitely stopped after fix. Now I can listen to music as loud as I want.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before and after video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvxCwly-Hek

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAJ_eTafck8

 

I still have a third one which appears only on bumpy roads. Not loud but annoying.

I thought this noise was also the door controller but the answer is no. :(

When I test-drove the car with removed door card the noise was still there so this must be something in the door.

It seems that my door panel will come off again... :S

 

Thanks for the pictures and videos !!! Huge work you did there !  :clap:  Do you have any pictures explaining how to take of the door panel ?

 

Try wrapping some electrical tape around the silver metal door latch that is affixed to the bodywork.  I had a very annoying rattle from my previous Superb.  It went back to the dealer twice, they remove and refitted the door trims and adjusted the locks bit it was only when I wrapped tape around the door latch that the noise disappeared.

 

Glen

 

Thanks for the advice, seems like a good idea ! Would you have a picture of how it looked ?

Edited 4 November, 201510 yr by Wiivern

Mine started with this when it was a few months old, was really spoiling the ownership experience, put up with it for months until I took my car in for a service at 12 months old. I took technician out in it so he could hear the rattle.

Not sure what was adjusted but it was done under warranty and car has been excellent since.  

Mines in the seatbelt height adjuster mechanism. Right by my ear. Man I hate rattles....

Snap! Mine rattles too, but on the passenger side. It grips my sh!t when I'm in the car myself and can't give it a whack!

Hello Wilvern

 

I don't have a photo of my fix (it was on my previous Superb and the current car is rattle free currently), but I've grabbed a stock photo off the web and added a call-out to show where I wrapped the tape:

 

 

Hope that helps!

 

Glen

 

 

 

Thanks for the pictures and videos !!! Huge work you did there !  :clap:  Do you have any pictures explaining how to take of the door panel ?

 

 

Thanks for the advice, seems like a good idea ! Would you have a picture of how it looked ?

Repair manuals can be found here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6mvh3pqryshv3rp/AAAYSoCsp-vVWz-h4ko4QoAha?dl=0

Door panel removal procedure is detailed in "Body Work", page 359 (369).

Power window switch removal is more detailed in "Electrical system", page 132 (140).

My notes:

- lower the window fully before start *

- I started with removing the lower part of the handle (trim), no tools needed, just pull it horizontally

- releasing the power window switch can be done from bottom, "inside" the handle to avoid visible damage (I used 2 small screwdrivers)

- you will need to disconnect the ext. mirror switch connector to access the 2nd screw

- use a magnetic screwdriver

- door warning lamp also needs to be removed and disconnected

- no tools needed to unclip the panel just take care of the right order

- after the 7 loud pops you can start lifting up the door panel (you will need 2 hands, one at bottom, the other on top)

* - you have to lift out the panel from the window channel, starting at the rear side (where the alarm system LED is)

- there's an additional stupid metal holding clip below the tweeter (green arrow), to release this you will have to turn the door panel left/right slightly

 

Good news is that the door clips don't tend to brake, I removed/reinstalled the door panel 2 times without any problem.

You are working with plastics, min. 15-20 C degree required to avoid braking something.

Good luck

 

 

 

Edited 8 November, 201510 yr by aki78

Hello Wilvern

 

I don't have a photo of my fix (it was on my previous Superb and the current car is rattle free currently), but I've grabbed a stock photo off the web and added a call-out to show where I wrapped the tape:

 

Door catch.JPG

 

Hope that helps!

 

Glen

 

 

Nice, thanks a lot Glen

 

 

Repair manuals can be found here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6mvh3pqryshv3rp/AAAYSoCsp-vVWz-h4ko4QoAha?dl=0

Door panel removal procedure is detailed in "Body Work", page 359 (369).

Power window switch removal is more detailed in "Electrical system", page 132 (140).

My notes:

- lower the window fully before start *

- I started with removing the lower part of the handle (trim), no tools needed, just pull it horizontally

- releasing the power window switch can be done from bottom, "inside" the handle to avoid visible damage (I used 2 small screwdrivers)

- you will need to disconnect the ext. mirror switch connector to access the 2nd screw

- use a magnetic screwdriver

- door warning lamp also needs to be removed and disconnected

- no tools needed to unclip the panel just take care of the right order

- after the 7 loud pops you can start lifting up the door panel (you will need 2 hands, one at bottom, the other on top)

* - you have to lift out the panel from the window channel, starting at the rear side (where the alarm system LED is)

- there's an additional stupid metal holding clip below the tweeter (green arrow), to release this you will have to turn the door panel left/right slightly

 

Good news is that the door clips don't tend to brake, I removed/reinstalled the door panel 2 times without any problem.

You are working with plastics, min. 15-20 C degree required to avoid braking something.

Good luck

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for all those advices ! I'll see if I can manage to do the same  

Glen Thanks for the post I had the same problem as yo. I don't know how but this has fixed the problem for me

I have a similar problem in (I think) the rear driver's-side door. It is an intermittent problem and depends on speed & road surface.     1500 miles & annoying.   It might be the rear seat anchor though, have not investigated yet.