Today I bought bought a quick detailer spray from a local detailing company who has their own range of products. 

 

This one will probably only really interest those who live in the North East of Scotland. (a few Aberdonians on here) 

 

The product - Ultra Clean- Ultra Quick Detailer. It's a new product in the range. https://www.ultraclean.uk.com/product-page/quick-detailer

 

It's easy to use with a microfibre cloth. They say you can use it while the car is wet, however I did dry mine off first. It has left a very nice shine on my rapid. 

 

It remains to be seen how well it beads, however its Scotland so won't be long before it rains again.. 

 

Edited 4 March, 20197 yr by DJG1984

On 04/03/2019 at 16:49, DJG1984 said:

Today I bought bought a quick detailer spray from a local detailing company who has their own range of products. 

 

This one will probably only really interest those who live in the North East of Scotland. (a few Aberdonians on here) 

 

The product - Ultra Clean- Ultra Quick Detailer. It's a new product in the range. https://www.ultraclean.uk.com/product-page/quick-detailer

 

It's easy to use with a microfibre cloth. They say you can use it while the car is wet, however I did dry mine off first. It has left a very nice shine on my rapid. 

 

It remains to be seen how well it beads, however its Scotland so won't be long before it rains again.. 

 

Safe to say it beads pretty well. 

Mezerna 400 swirl remover and polish applied with a rotary buffer and then sealed with Fusso King of Gloss.

I’m somewhat of a cynic when bold claims are made about products but this one (so far) has impressed me. 

The ‘Sam’s Detailing’ drying towel, a large, single-sided twisted loop towel that seems to hold a lot of water and dried most of my car before it needed wringing out. I’d happily buy another over my previous drying towels.

 

https://www.samsdetailing.co.uk/products/drying-towel

 

No association with the above company other than being happy with their product.

 

 

Washed my Octy and our daughters Ibiza today. 

 

1. I used Auto Glyms Polar Collection. 

 

2. Purchased from Amazon (price has gone up since I bought it earlier this week) 

 - https://amzn.eu/d/2PxiH12

 

3.Start with the Polar Blast Snowfoam. Works pretty well. Had previously been using Auto Smarts snowfoam and this works maybe a little better.

 

Rinse off the snowfoam and moved onto the Polar wash which is also applied using the snow foam lance, so don't make up too much snowfoam or you will waste product. 

 

Went over with sponge and hot water. Then Rinsed. Again don't make up more wash mix than needed as the snowfoam bottle is again used to apply the next stage. 

 

The next stage is Polar Seal, a hydrophobic protective coating. Spray on, they say no more than 4 cap fulls to 500mls water. Applied with the snowfoam bottle. 

 

Then Rinsed off. Then dry vehicle. 

 

4.It started to rain when I was mid drying and the hydrophobic properties were obvious and excellent beading. 

 

Quite a satisfying product. 

 

Edited 22 December, 20232 yr by DJG1984

Looks great - I'd wondered about this Polar range; just blasting with a lance. The Pre-wash is pH Neutral, the shampoo is relatively alkali (generally expected and needed for road grime/traffic film), but the protector is fairly acidic at 4.7; not sure I expected that but its Siloxanes and Silicones so similar to something like Carpro Hydro2 perhaps. 

 

In fact, on that ph point, using the wash might end up being quite destructive to the Protect layer because of such a difference to the ph levels. As such, you may find you can't maintain the Protect layer by keeping it decontaminated with the Wash product. Be interesting to see if that is the case or not.

Washed the Octy for the first time in month thanks to 💩 weather. She was covered in dirt and grit off the winter roads. 

 

The snow took a massive thaw yesterday and I took the opertunity to wash it. 

 

Auto Glyms Polar Collection again. 

 

A couple of before and after pics. 

Edited 21 January, 20242 yr by DJG1984

What's the best thing to coat wheel barells? 

On 25/10/2024 at 22:44, Blue8793841 said:

What's the best thing to coat wheel barells? 

 

Best as in for keeping clean? That's going to be a ceramic coating realistically. If you want them looking perfect, then you're looking at taking them off, refurbing and then doing the coating. However, if its not going to be a showcar and you just want looking good and keeping clean easily, then just removing and giving a thorough clean and decontamination and then coating. By decontamination, that involves:

Pre-washing,

Iron fallout remover,

Contact wash with shampoo,

Tar remover,

Claying.

If it was bodywork, then you'd want to machine-polish to get the clearcoat looking its best (removing the marring from, amongst other things, the claying process) but probably not completely necessary for wheel barrels given the lack of exposure.

 

Otherwise/Also, I'd look at low-dust pads when you change (I've got ATE Ceramic pads on order as good reviews) and decent barrel brushes to clean inside when you do do it.

 

Personally, I'm happy just keeping my clean with brushes when I clean the car.

 

Cheers I got some yellow stuff pads in the back and the dust is crazy 

Oh right - I was looking at yellow and red; thought yellow might be too OTT for me and that Redstuff would be better as they're ceramic, but went with the ATE's instead. Good to know!

On 28/10/2024 at 13:52, travs said:

That's going to be a ceramic coating realistically. If you want them looking perfect, then you're looking at taking them off, refurbing and then doing the coating.

I quote only part of the post, but very informative overall.

I have finally taken the time to do these tasks - except the "coating", read further - when season comes, and swapping of summer/winter trains takes place.

After the recent rear pad replacement in the 280, I am going to add also "remove caliper pins, check and grease them" at least every couple years ...

However, I am lacking in the 'coating department'. While I have no issues with the car itself (I have this covered) I was wondering about adding more to the rims' aspect.

Is not that I want "showroom" or "looking perfect", is that having wheels refurbished has become insanely expensive, and nevermind the deterioration of the quality of the work has followed suit.

So is not just "to look good", but also to delay to the maximum extent the inevitable ....

On another place I have been recommended this product, what you guys say?

Carbon Collective | Ceramic Coat...

Platinum Wheels Ceramic Coating - Carbon Collective | Cer...

On 13/09/2025 at 07:41, leolito said:

I quote only part of the post, but very informative overall.

I have finally taken the time to do these tasks - except the "coating", read further - when season comes, and swapping of summer/winter trains takes place.

After the recent rear pad replacement in the 280, I am going to add also "remove caliper pins, check and grease them" at least every couple years ...

However, I am lacking in the 'coating department'. While I have no issues with the car itself (I have this covered) I was wondering about adding more to the rims' aspect.

Is not that I want "showroom" or "looking perfect", is that having wheels refurbished has become insanely expensive, and nevermind the deterioration of the quality of the work has followed suit.

So is not just "to look good", but also to delay to the maximum extent the inevitable ....

On another place I have been recommended this product, what you guys say?

Carbon Collective | Ceramic Coat...

Platinum Wheels Ceramic Coating - Carbon Collective | Cer...

I’m a bit mixed on this personally.

Carbon collective is a well respected company and they have some decent products (generally companies can be hit and miss depending on who their chemist is, or what they buy from which chemical company - there is a some relabelling going on in the industry).

But I have a couple of reservations with the claims on this page:

1. Anyway who starts quoting numbers from the Mohs scale isn’t a real measure of it.

2. Ceramic coatings have strong solvents which break the bonds of the clearcoat and mix in with the softened layers; crosslinking with itself within the clearcoat. This is what gives it its longevity. Claiming this is just as good on bare metal and painted finished as well as clearcoat. With no clearcoat I don’t see how it can bond as well and claim the same longevity.

3. I’ve had chemical burn using a tar remover (strong solvent) on a wheel (clearcoated wheels like those from the factory are fine) to find it’s been reconditioned with a cheaper rattle can finish (you get white etched marks) and there’s a good chance that the solvents in this would do the same which would look awful and would be too late. Those marks need to be polished off with compound so claiming this is good for painted finishes.

Of course happy to be corrected on any of this if the chemistry and research has moved on.

In a nutshell, on clearcoated wheels like those from the factory will be fine and benefit from this as much as pretty much any other respected ceramic coating. As usual make sure they’re super clean and decontaminated from, brake dust, iron fallout and tar remover (get rid of any leftover glue from wheel weights) processes to make sure they look best and the coating has the best chance of bonding.

Darn this was informative!

I was planning to do this on the Stratoses before winter time, they are factory finished not resprayed, and to the Trinitys before I put them away for winter, but these have a "diamond cut" shiny finish and this is the one I would like to preserve as much as possible.

If there is some other equivalent product tried & tested, I am also okay with it, I have no particular preference ... this was just something that came out talking wheels somewhere else ...

Even though the Trinity wheels are Diamond Cut they are still clearcoated over the top. So that’s not a problem at all.

I’ve done wheels for a customer before and did 2 coats of Carpro CQuartz which would work absolutely fine.

Maybe some wheel-dedicated ones could withstand higher temps but otherwise I’d be interested to know exactly what the difference really is

I am reading their website and I am terrified .... looks like very high-end products! 🙃

3 hours ago, leolito said:

I am reading their website and I am terrified .... looks like very high-end products! 🙃

Ha. They are but they’re still consumer-grade products in general. The website is very slick but most product ranges have one that can only be applied by a pro who has attended their special course and Carpro are no exception. They put a lot of R&D into ceramic coatings early on so their product ranges were geared around it.

I’ve always rated Carpro but like all manufacturers, some products are great, some have got better competitors out there.

I see.

Well, it might start with something simpler then 🙂

On 16/09/2025 at 20:35, leolito said:

I see.

Well, it might start with something simpler then 🙂

Sorry I didn’t see this.

Honestly Carpro Cquartz is fine. It’s older now but still does well. 2 coats and you’re golden.

Ordered!

Hope gets fast as the first hint of snow arrived and I am already late for swap 🙃

Arrived yesterday! Will try to play next week with it and report 🙂

Worth a listen if you can on BBC Sounds.

Sliced Bread.

The programme on Car Shampoos and Coatings.

It was Released on the 30th October 2025.

Will look on that ... I used the wax treatment on the winter 17" alloys, but I have not mounted them yet so no idea how will react to the dirt. Will keep posted.