During a late night spirited drive home last night the red low oil pressure light came on while heading around a roundabout. I didn't think anything of it as it's probably just oil surge, but then again on my drive to work this morning, it happened again, again on a roundabout but while i wasn't hanging around this time I wasn't completely taking the **** so I guess it's time to top up the oil a little. So far i've just had it serviced so not needed to top the oil up myself. I've always used Mobil 1 0W-40 new life in my old bmw, i've checked the online manuals linked on this site and i think i just need oil that conforms to VW 504 00 (i'm servicing it every 10,000 miles or so), have I understood the manual correctly? and does this spec tell me the weight of the oil I need? I've checked Mobil's website and they have Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 which conforms to VW 504 00.

 

http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LCW/carengineoils_products_mobil-1-esp-formula-5w30.aspx#

 

Is this okay for my car (2.0 TFSI VRS)? My old BMW's were/are pretty bullet proof so i've never really worried about oil choice before, just gone for something posha nd changed it every 10,000 miles, but it seems these newer engines can be a bit fussy.

 

Cheers

wow, so i've just checked the oil level on the dip stick and there's nothing there!!! Been out (in another car) and bought 5 litres of Mobil 1 ESP as linked above, it took about 1.5 litres to get it back to the max line on the dipstick. Which begs the question, why on earth didnt the yellow oil can symbol ever light up? All i've had is the red light flash up with a beep once last night and once this morning, both when cornering hard. The car was serviced about 5 to 6 thousand miles ago, admittedly I never checked the level after the service, or since, but still, i'd expect a light on the dash to tell me to top it up on an 06 car, my 1996 bmw tells me that much.

oops, just realised i used a word i shouldn't have in my first post, for the record, it was just another word for urinating not anything hard, would have use 'wee wee' instead had I realised.

They do use oil a bit, but crikey... 1 and a half litres to bring it back to the max!

 

Might be worth checking a bit more often lol.

 

I use Millers Nanodrive CFS 5w-40  NT Fully Synthetic. Mine is stage 2 though, and it is designed for high performance engines.

I use Mobil 1 ESP in my 2.0 ltr BKD engine not had any problems with it.

5w-40 here helped alot with oil consumption

Mobil1 5w-30 ESP is the right spec for the car.

It shoulnt really do 1.5 litres of oil in only 5 or 6k miles but its not necessarily a fault. They can use a bit of oil.

Keep an eye on it...if it continues to get worse could be indicative of a piston ring/valve oil seal issue and lead to a top end rebuild which'll not be cheap.

It might not have been refilled correctly after the service? Add 6,000 miles of oil consumption on top of an under-fill and this has prompted the red light?

 

I too am surprised that you didn't first see the yellow warning, unless the oil level dropped fast. I'd be keeping a close eye on it from now on.

The TFSI's seem to burn oil like my old Morris Minor and VW is still covering their behinds with "½ liter per 1000 km (620 miles) is normal" although most other modern engines don't even use 1 liter in 15.000 km

 

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/articles/1Q2rXBpVsXVQ12hVFmxMBjP/audis-oil-guzzling-issues

 

https://www.audi.co.uk/about-audi/latest-news/audi-uk-bbc-watchdog-oil-consumption-june-2015.html

 

 

It is known that the petrol 180/211bhp A4/5/Q5 can use very excessive amounts of oil (but apparently excessive is above 0.5 litres per 1000 km as per handbook, or 621 miles by my previous consumption test). Now is the time to get this known problem sorted! Eventually the excessive oil consumption will foul the spark plugs leading to misfires, normally misfiring on cylinder 2. If you are experiencing this heavy oil burning either carry on as if you own an oil field or get it fixed now....

There have been numerous advertised fixes but it will only be cured by the figment of new piston rings. Forget a PCV and software update, the car needs 20 hours Audi labour to rebuild the engine. An easy way to diagnose apart from marrying an oil sheiks daughter is to check ur exhaust tips. If their black and you remember it's not a TDI you know it's a problem!

Audi are slowly admitting by ways of their 'Goodwill' contribution and paying the lot. Normally it's around £5-6k for the rebuild, however you may need full service history.

Also Audi US North America lost a law suit against this problem!

Edited 1 November, 201510 yr by Tranberg

my last fill was 5w-30 ESP (changed it on Saturday).  

 

No dramas or issues to speak of.  I've also run the 502.00 0(?)w-40 and it was fine - possibly slightly more fuel consumption due to the heavier weight.

 

Unfortunately. some of these engines use oil.  I check mine about every 5,000km.

 

Try finding an oil with a really high flashpoint - some of the manufacturers won't disclose this information.

Mine uses roughly 1 litre of top up oil in total between oil changes (10,000 miles). It did use a bit more when i bought the car with 11,000 miles on the clock but now its on 67,000 miles & the usage has become less as the miles on the engine have increased.

This cured my old Moto Guzzi from leaking and burning oil:

£50 for 5 liters at Halfords

 

You can also buy 5W-50

 

 

Mobil 1 Extended Life™ 10W-60

Advanced Full Synthetic Engine Oil

Mobil 1 is the world’s leading synthetic engine oil brand delivering our ultimate performance and protection.

Mobil 1 Extended Life 10W-60 is engineered for the specific demands of older vehicles.

 

Edited 2 November, 201510 yr by Tranberg

This cured my old Moto Guzzi from leaking and burning oil:

£50 for 5 liters at Halfords

 

You can also buy 5W-50

There is no way I'd recomend using either of those oils in a modern, turbo-charged, water-cooled, multivalve VW engine - not unless the engine was almost clapped-out anyway.  

 

Under normal running (maybe it would be OK at the track) that weight oil will be too viscous to provide sufficient lubrication to the turbo & camshafts, etc.

 

Assuming your Guzzi was one of the old air-cooled, two-valvers?  It would be a really good oil for them.  A mate of mine has a collection of old Guzzis - great bikes, very under-rated.

The 10W property ensures the oil is not like butter in the fridge at startup. 5W-50 is the same cold as 5W-30

 

Aren't the TFSI's worn out from the factory? With cylinder bores 1st oversize and standard size pistons resulting in oil consumption last seen in the rubbish BLMC made in the late seventies.

The 10W property ensures the oil is not like butter in the fridge at startup. 5W-50 is the same cold as 5W-30

 

 

 

yes the pumping viscosity & the cranking viscosity of the 5w are the same cold but the cold measurement is -35c and -25c respectively.  Are you starting or running the engine at that temperature?

 

The important bit is if you compare the 50 with the 30 - both of which are measured at 100celsius - a temperature which most of our engines will meet or exceed.  A 50 weight oil at 100c measures ~16.3centiStoke, whereas a 30 weight oil is ~9.3cSt.

 

Sure, if you drive hard, get a lot of heat in the engine for long periods of time and maybe have high mileage and wear on the engine then a more viscous oil might be a good thing but to recommend a 10w-60 or 5w-50 straight off the bat seems somewhat cavalier.

In my book, an engine which uses a liter of oil in 1240 miles is defective anyway. And that's normal by VW standards.

 

Engineering toolbox disagrees slightly with your numbers: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dynamic-viscosity-motor-oils-d_1759.html

 

Dynamic Viscosity (N s/m²)

@ 0, 20, 50, 100^oC

SAE 30: 1.53 0.310 0.061 0.010

SAE50: 3.82 0.630 0.097 0.015

 

             

 

 

In my book, an engine which uses a liter of oil in 1240 miles is defective anyway. And that's normal by VW standards.

 

Engineering toolbox disagrees slightly with your numbers: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dynamic-viscosity-motor-oils-d_1759.html

 

Dynamic Viscosity (N s/m²)

@ 0, 20, 50, 100^oC

SAE 30: 1.53 0.310 0.061 0.010

SAE50: 3.82 0.630 0.097 0.015

 

             

 

I'm not sure why you are introducing the 1L/1240 miles (which I think is unacceptable too).  That wasn't part of the OPs post or the discussion at hand.

 

You do realise that N s/m^2 & centistokes are different scales?  It's like saying farenheit & Celsius are different numbers

Edited 6 November, 201510 yr by brad1.8T

I use 5w30 in my pre fl octavia vrs tfsi however I have been recommended to use 5w40 as apparently this helps reduce the oil consumption.

Also, rather then the red low oil pressure warning light shouldn't the yellow low oil level light have come on instead?

Edited 6 November, 201510 yr by vala

I think the 1L/1240miles issue will be part of this eventually, i've been tracking my mileage since i topped it up, done 450miles so far so early/middle of next week should see me at 620 and i'll see what the situation is then. I do around 16000 miles a year in the skoda so 0.5 litre / 620 miles is going to get a little expensive. It did make me think though, at that rate of consumption it's essentially a total loss system, which begs the question, what's the point in changing the oil at a service, might as well just change the filter. I'm being a little flippant but still, what's the oil capacity, less than 5 litres i'd guess, in which case the oil will be 'changed' every 6200 miles anyway.

 

Vala has hit on the other issue, why is it the yellow oil light never came on?

Edited 6 November, 201510 yr by DoctorT

I'm not sure why you are introducing the 1L/1240 miles (which I think is unacceptable too).  That wasn't part of the OPs post or the discussion at hand.

 

You do realise that N s/m^2 & centistokes are different scales?  It's like saying farenheit & Celsius are different numbers

2. Posting. 1.5 liters lacking after 5000 miles http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/376840-octavia-vrs-mk2-pre-fl-oil-mobil-1-esp-5w-30/#entry4427158

 

Your numbers indicated SAE50 was nearly twice as thick as SAE30 @ 100 deg C, but using N s/m^2 it's only half again thicker, comparable to SAE30 @ 10 to 15 deg C colder, like if you had an efficient oil cooler.

Edited 6 November, 201510 yr by Tranberg

During a late night spirited drive home last night the red low oil pressure light came on while heading around a roundabout. I didn't think anything of it as it's probably just oil surge, but then again on my drive to work this morning, it happened again, again on a roundabout but while i wasn't hanging around this time I wasn't completely taking the **** so I guess it's time to top up the oil a little. So far i've just had it serviced so not needed to top the oil up myself. I've always used Mobil 1 0W-40 new life in my old bmw, i've checked the online manuals linked on this site and i think i just need oil that conforms to VW 504 00 (i'm servicing it every 10,000 miles or so), have I understood the manual correctly? and does this spec tell me the weight of the oil I need? I've checked Mobil's website and they have Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 which conforms to VW 504 00.

http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LCW/carengineoils_products_mobil-1-esp-formula-5w30.aspx#

Is this okay for my car (2.0 TFSI VRS)? My old BMW's were/are pretty bullet proof so i've never really worried about oil choice before, just gone for something posha nd changed it every 10,000 miles, but it seems these newer engines can be a bit fussy.

Cheers

If I was you I wouldn't use low saps oil becouse they are castrated from best particulars which supposed to protect engine but they are killing DPF.

You change oil every 10k miles so there is no need to use 504 spec which is low in TBN.

Go for 5w40 (502 spec) ideally for top brands with real PAO Base like Millers, Amsoil, redline, penrite tenth (great stuff)

Eventuality if you find it a bit over you budget go for mobile 1 ore shell but ad archoil9100 which will increase Tbn and add some more protecting particulars.

I use 5w30 in my pre fl octavia vrs tfsi however I have been recommended to use 5w40 as apparently this helps reduce the oil consumption.

Also, rather then the red low oil pressure warning light shouldn't the yellow low oil level light have come on instead?

Maybe the low oil level sensor is faulty? (not 100% sure if/where its fitted) i know there is a sensor on the sump on mine. 

Pretty sure the sensor on the sump

Is for the oil level.

Pretty sure the sensor on the sump

Is for the oil level.

 

 

Maybe the low oil level sensor is faulty? (not 100% sure if/where its fitted) i know there is a sensor on the sump on mine. 

 

but isn't a faulty sensor meant to make the oil light flash yellow?

 

I thought it was, solid yellow for low level - top up required, flashing yellow for faulty sensor and solid red for low pressure.

well i've covered one thousand miles since i topped up the oil and it just took approx 300mls to bring it back to the max line. So not as bad as it could be, but still that'd be around 5 litres of topping up over a year (assuming i carry on doing around 16,000 miles).