Ok rookie mistake(maybe)... Changed my oil 1 week ago

And today just realised it is actually Ford spec oil!

It is Fully Synthetic 5W/30... My Car is 2011 Skoda Octavia 1.6Tdi 105bhp..

Should I get it out ASAP, Or is it ok?

Thank You in advance :-)

It's only my opinion (may not be the most popular one) that it doesn't make difference if it's for Ford, BMW or Skoda. You need fully synthetic 5w/30 - you get it. Is it Valvoline, Shell, Castrol - they all say they are the best.

The only thing that you think about is that your car's DPF may dislike it (or maybe it's OK, I don't know that).  Just read about that on internet (look below):

 

 

Is your car equipped with a Diesel Particulate Filter? If yes then you must select a spec that calls for a so called low SAPS oil. If you use a regular oil you will gradually destroy your DPF, which is expensive to replace.

 

Still got the can, or at least able to remember what you bought? If so, then read it properly; being a Ford $Spec oil does not preclude it also have a VAG500 series spec code/

Ford diesel cars must have DPFs as well (I guess that they all work more or less the same way). So, you just have to search to find out if it's usable for Ford with a DPF. If is then it might be OK for your car.

But be careful - that's my opinion only.

It should say VW 507.00 on the bottle, if not then it doesn't meet the correct requirements.

 

If you have put 5-30 fully synthetic designed for modern engines i'm sure it won't have done any damage at all but for piece of mind i would drain it and put in the right stuff

You are not in trouble , The vag spec is their number for the oil to use, the vag spec will equate to a standard spec which in your case in 5W30. The only number you need to see is 5W30.

See this for info

http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

As has been mentioned, the only spec you need to see on the bottle is VW 507.00.

 

This means that the oil is suitable for use with DPF's (Diesel Particulate Filter), one of which is fitted to your car.

You are not in trouble , The vag spec is their number for the oil to use, the vag spec will equate to a standard spec which in your case in 5W30. The only number you need to see is 5W30.

See this for info

http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

 

I don't know if the 1.6 has a DPF or not but if it does then your post is of little use. Spec 507 does indeed mean a 5w30 oil but it also means that it is a low SAPS oil. Not all 5w30 oils will be low SAPS. So unless it states on the bottle or in the data sheet that it meets spec 507 or is a low SAPS oil, then don't just use any old 5w30. 

Edited 15 January, 201610 yr by hatchy

I don't know if the 1.6 has a DPF or not but if it does then your post is of little use. Spec 507 does indeed mean a 5w30 oil but it also means that it is a low SAPS oil. Not all 5w30 oils will be low SAPS. So unless it states on the bottle or in the data sheet that it meets spec 507 or is a low SAPS oil, then don't just use any old 5w30.

As it is a CR engine it will have a dpf. I agree on the oil spec. ECP do two versions of their TripleQX oil one is low Saps and meets 507.00, the other doesn't, but is the same apart from that.

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

In that case oil specs should be changed , 5w30 should mean 5w30. If there are that many crucial differences then vag 5w30 and ford 5w30 cannot be the same therefor one of them is not 5w30.

In that case oil specs should be changed , 5w30 should mean 5w30. If there are that many crucial differences then vag 5w30 and ford 5w30 cannot be the same therefor one of them is not 5w30.

What does viscosity have to do with post combustion residues?

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

The viscosity is the important part in choosing the correct oil. While the SAPS content is important most modern synthetic oils will have low levels. For the past 5/6 years I have been using the Chevron 5W30 from Costco (20l drum for £25). That's been in the vRS (with dpf) the mrs's 2 A3's and there has been no issues what so ever.

The viscosity is the important part in choosing the correct oil. While the SAPS content is important most modern synthetic oils will have low levels. For the past 5/6 years I have been using the Chevron 5W30 from Costco (20l drum for £25). That's been in the vRS (with dpf) the mrs's 2 A3's and there has been no issues what so ever.

Yes, but what does viscosity have to do with with sulphur content - I.e. The suitability for a dpf?

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

I had a similar problem with my 103 TDI Scout (I'm in Australia). I always used Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5w30 but Shell have either discontinued it or renamed it and I couldn't find any oils with the VW507 spec, so I used a Castrol fully synthetic 0w40 specifically labelled 'For Diesels with DPF Filter' and rated to BMW Longlife 04. I thought the higher visc rating would be better for Australian summer driving, but was a bit reticent, so I emailed the Castrol tech dep't and they recommended I drain the oil and fill with Castrol Edge fully synth 5w30, saying that the 0w40 didn't meet the VW507 spec; they only produce two oils that do. I took their advice and - sadly - drained AUD$85 worth of oil and easily found the 507 rated 5w30 Edge they mentioned.

 

Peace of mind was worth the extra $$$ involved. It's not just the low SAPS, but viscosity at startup and all manner of things. I simply didn't want to risk it. Much happier with the VW507 in the sump.

Personally I'd say you'll be fine, you haven't put 2 stroke oil in it !!. I'd imagine modern 5w30 is like the "variations of duff" so I'd imagine that sulphur content really isn't so much of an issue these days. Stick Vag 507 on the tin and you can charge what you want.

http://simpsons.wikia.com/wiki/Duff_Beer

But it's your choice, if you feel the need to drain and replace then that's what you must do. I'm going to continue with my Costco budget oil

Personally I'd say you'll be fine, you haven't put 2 stroke oil in it !!. I'd imagine modern 5w30 is like the "variations of duff" so I'd imagine that sulphur content really isn't so much of an issue these days. Stick Vag 507 on the tin and you can charge what you want.

http://simpsons.wikia.com/wiki/Duff_Beer

But it's your choice, if you feel the need to drain and replace then that's what you must do. I'm going to continue with my Costco budget oil

 

 

 

 

 

Hi just because you choose to buy probably non spec oil is not necessary a very good reason to advise someone else to make the same "error" You can get 5 litres of vag oil off ebay from the cardiff vw dealer for £23 odd quid delivered so not so expensive. 

As I said "Personally" and "it's your choice" , the op has come looking for guidance. That's my personal view. I acknowledge and respect others views on the forum.

Cheers

Mule

I did the same a few years back to a Passat I had.

On comparison I found the Ford oil to be thinner / more runnier.

The Passat was prone to burning some oil, but the ford stuff went even quicker than normal.

I just changed it at a later point, did a few thousand miles before I changed it.

I had a similar problem with my 103 TDI Scout (I'm in Australia). I always used Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5w30 but Shell have either discontinued it or renamed it and I couldn't find any oils with the VW507 spec, so I used a Castrol fully synthetic 0w40 specifically labelled 'For Diesels with DPF Filter' and rated to BMW Longlife 04. I thought the higher visc rating would be better for Australian summer driving, but was a bit reticent, so I emailed the Castrol tech dep't and they recommended I drain the oil and fill with Castrol Edge fully synth 5w30, saying that the 0w40 didn't meet the VW507 spec; they only produce two oils that do. I took their advice and - sadly - drained AUD$85 worth of oil and easily found the 507 rated 5w30 Edge they mentioned.

 

Peace of mind was worth the extra $$$ involved. It's not just the low SAPS, but viscosity at startup and all manner of things. I simply didn't want to risk it. Much happier with the VW507 in the sump.

 

All oil is thicker cold than when hot so as far as viscosity at 'start up' goes,the 0w40 would have got round the engine quicker on start up but would be thicker at operating temp. than a 30 weight oil. The lower the number before the 'W' the thinner it is 'cold'. I've stuck to Mobil1 ESP 5w30 ever since I've had my VRS but I would have no problem using a (507) low SAPS 0w30, if such an oil exists. I've never looked into it. My previous cars recommended oil that I had for 8 years was 10w40 but I used to use a 5w40 and once a 0w40. At temp. the oil was the same thickness it's just that on cold start up the 0w and 5w oils would be just that bit quicker getting round the engine.

You are not in trouble , The vag spec is their number for the oil to use, the vag spec will equate to a standard spec which in your case in 5W30. The only number you need to see is 5W30.

See this for info

http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

That is so wrong it isn't funny.

The viscosity is the important part in choosing the correct oil. While the SAPS content is important most modern synthetic oils will have low levels. For the past 5/6 years I have been using the Chevron 5W30 from Costco (20l drum for £25). That's been in the vRS (with dpf) the mrs's 2 A3's and there has been no issues what so ever.

What do you mean by "no issues whatsoever".  Do you mean nothing has broken or have you consistently done UOA and the readings are coming out fine?

In that case oil specs should be changed , 5w30 should mean 5w30. If there are that many crucial differences then vag 5w30 and ford 5w30 cannot be the same therefor one of them is not 5w30.

5w-30 is simply the viscosity.

 

You aren't taking into account other oil characteristics such as anti-sludge, oxidative thickening, wear characteristics, piston deposits, calcium / phosphorus / molybdenum / magnesium levels etc.

 

If all 5w-30 oils were the same then why does (for instance) Chevron (who has a really small range) sell three different types of 5w-30?  It's because they aren't the same oil.

 

Please, if you haven't a clue it might be best not to comment.

 

To the OP:  Do you know which particular oil was put in?

Thanks to years of working with high spec lubricants I do have a clue. Whilst yes there are varying formulations of 5W30 modern oils will no doubt meet the minimum spec. For the OP to be sure and have piece of mind he needs to change the oil he has used (will it cause damage , I'd still maintain no).

Thanks to years of working with high spec lubricants I do have a clue. Whilst yes there are varying formulations of 5W30 modern oils will no doubt meet the minimum spec. For the OP to be sure and have piece of mind he needs to change the oil he has used (will it cause damage , I'd still maintain no).

Your years of work don't come across in the posts you make.

Drain it out and replace (with maybe a filter change) with a 507 spec just to be sure !! You wouldn't want to end up looking like an Ass !!