BI-Xenon upgrade options found vRS AFSII

[xpower]

Hi all,

Some of you may know that I am a lighting enthusiast, I have completed a few retro fits and unfortunately the STD lights on the vRS just don't cut it. The AFS is quite good but the light source isn't.

I have currently upgraded my Std Phillips bulls for a set of genuine Osram D3S CBI's which do make a slight improvement but not much.

I have been looking at retrofitting a set of BI-LED projectors but the cost is quite high (set of head lights to work on, set of donor BI-LED headlights, LED drivers etc)

Today whilst returning my vRS back to std ready for my new one - hopefully within 4 weeks :-) I came across the ability to change the D3S bulb for a D2S without modifing the headlight.

Then I can fit a set of Morimoto XB55 ballasts and their new D2S 5500k bulb which boasts 4000lm when connected to their 50w ballast. I have ran 55w ballasts (generic ebay ones) on a D2S hella retrofit on my mk2 (thread is on here somewhere) and they were better than the std bi-xenons on my mk3

Pictures of the D2S bulb fitted, there is even an option to export from Oz some 70w ballasts :-)

[MattSP]

I'd be intrigued how you get on with this as I don't find the standard vRS lights all that great.

Couple of questions:

Will this be a straight parts swap (i.e. reversible)?

Is there a UK source for the Morimoto parts you mention?

[xpower]

Yes this is a straight parts swap with no mods to the headlight, you would still leave the std ballast in place and the new one would just sit inside the headlight.

Unfortunately morimoto don't distribute directly into Europe, nearest is the retrofitsource in the US or a company in EGYPT.

You are looking at $200 with shipping for 2x XB55 ballast and 2x 5500k bulbs (which will look like 4500-5000k when driven at 55w)

There is of course the option to change to LED, 95% of me is convinced they will be **** but LED aftermarket tech has improved dramatically in the last 5 years. They are also fully adjustable in position so you could fine tune they to get the best output and use a D2S base. People moan about the fans but some OEM bi-led projectors use fans - increases the lifespan and maintains the lumens output of the LEDS

http://www.vleds.com/headlights-32/led-headlights/all/d2s-d4s/d2s-d4s-lmz-2710.html

Edited 18 January, 2016 by xpower

[MattSP]

Interesting information, thank you for sharing.

I will definitely be intrigued if you decide to do any upgrades. I may have a go when I get my vRS back - a Mercedes Sprinter decided to use it as a brake so it's off for repair for at least four weeks.

[xpower]

I've decided to go with the upgraded wattage xenon as there has been some hot and miss reviews on the LED's.

I have ordered the parts from the US and I'm just waiting delivery - will post up some comparison shots when I fit them

[xpower]

Ok so they have arrived from the US today, setup is:

Morimoto XB55

D2S connections

Morimoto D2S 5500k bulbs

Right is the XB55 and 5500k setup, left is OEM setup. The beam seems significantly stronger and intense, a much more solid beam output.

Edited 10 February, 2016 by xpower

[MattSP]

Thanks for posting- the results look promising.

Are you expecting more improvement with some "burn-in" time?

I'd be interested in what you think of the improvement when you've had some driving time with the new set up.

[xpower]

They may colour shift a little as they are burned in - light output will only go down and the bulbs are used though (the same with the OE bulb)

I have only test fitted at the moment. Both will be fitted this weekend hopefully.

Forgot to say that the Morimoto D2S Bulb is a direct fit for the std D3S with no modifications required.

[GoneToBeemer]

What's the difference between D2S and D3S then? Just out of interest!

[xpower]

D3S left D2S right

[xpower]

Ok, all fitted now. All I can say is they are truly awesome!!

Way brighter than standard - a really solid light output. Also much brighter than the D3S Osram CBI's.

Only downside is that you just can't get the ballasts inside the headlight with all the motors etc. So they are mounted outside on the brackets supplied with them.

Even the better half comment how bright they were - and they don't normally notice anything car related :-)

[99Reza]

From your experience, in the long term, will the headlight casing able to handle the extra heat (35w vs 55w)?

 

Any pictures showing how the ballast is mounted outside the headlight? and how much does this set-up cost you?

 

I'm very interested

[xpower]

You are pushing about 700-800 raw lumens of light more than the standard bulb, this will of course reduce the life of the projector.

Overtime all projectors will loose their output due to the concentration of heat on the mirrored surface, all I can say is that from my experience having runn 55w for a few years in my prevoius mk2 there was no degrading of visible output.

The member who purchased the headlights may still have them a few more years on - would be good to get his opinion.

In reality I doubt it will have much affect, may down from 20 years to 18?

As for cost is this how much I paid, or how much I told the Mrs I paid............ :-)

I'm just waiting on some grommets to seal the hole in the rear cover, then I can post some pics.

[aki78]

Just found this interesting german forum about upgrading factory D3S xenons.

It seems that some folks have replaced their original ballasts (35 W) with this 45 W ballast (link on page 114) to have more light.

According to page 115 mine is on the compatibility list (HEBODA 8K0 941 597B) and the new ballast seems straight swap without modifications.

Hm.............

Xpower, what do you think about colour shifting with this extra 30% power?

If I still want 4200-4500K do I have to buy 5000K bulbs?

[xpower]

Just found this interesting german forum about upgrading factory D3S xenons.

It seems that some folks have replaced their original ballasts (35 W) with this 45 W ballast (link on page 114) to have more light.

According to page 115 mine is on the compatibility list (HEBODA 8K0 941 597B) and the new ballast seems straight swap without modifications.

Hm.............

Xpower, what do you think about colour shifting with this extra 30% power?

If I still want 4200-4500K do I have to buy 5000K bulbs?

The only issue I have found with these Chinese ballasts are that they won't necessarily ignite if you do them quickly (flashing main beam on our bi-xenon), and the rating.

Some Ballast manufacturers rate the consumption and not the output.

Ballast 1 = 35w output

Ballast 2 = 55w consumption

The internals of ballast 1 (OE ballast) are usually much better and their percentage effiency are much better. You may find that the output of ballast 2 is actually only 43w :-(

As for the colour they will shift down as you increase the wattage. Standard bulb with probably be down to 4100k ish

A true 50w output ballast on a 5000k bulb will be around 4700k

Edited 13 July, 2016 by xpower

[aki78]

Thanks Xpower,

Power seems ok (really higher) according to feedbacks and pictures.

I have collected some images from the forum: http://postimg.org/gallery/2dm3d35lu/

Interesting pages and links:

Overtaking an E-Class Merc (with LED headlights) with the 45W ballast and Yeaky 6500 bulbs - video

35 W / 45 W ballast comparison with different bulbs (reference is OSRAM CBI) on page 116

Original Philips XenStart bulb at 35 W / 45 W on page 111

Comparison pictures of (factory) 35 W / chinese 45 W ballast on page 107

Lumen measurements of different bulbs on page 101

I will try and ask about the ignition time.

Unfortunately I have to flash my lights daily due to stupid highway drivers and I don't wanna loose the instant ignition feature.

Edited 15 July, 2016 by aki78

[xpower]

You shouldn't loose it but I've found (so far of course) the only ballasts which you can repeatable switch on and off without misignition are OE ones or the Mori Moto Ones I have.

The Chinese ones after a while will some times Mis-ignite.

The quality is getting better though

Looks promising and significatpy easier than my upgrade

Edited 15 July, 2016 by xpower

[aki78]

OK, order placed for the 45 W ballasts.

Let's see how will they perform. Fingers crossed.

Hopefully I can share the results in 3 weeks or so.

[aki78]

It took a while but finally the 45W ballasts arrived and I fitted them yesterday.

The result is fantastic, let the comparison pictures and videos talk. :)

warm up

dipped beams

high beams

activating high beams

 

 

 

 

[mabnz]

Hmm, I'm very tempted.. Was the install straightforward? I've found them but the install appears difficult; I can only access two out of three screws on the LHS one, and one out of three (washer bottle in the way) on the RHS.

 

LHS: 

RHS: 

 

 

BTW, unrelated but I've ordered some of these for my rear fogs - will report back once they're installed ;)

Edited 28 December, 2016 by mabnz

[aki78]

Hmm, I'm very tempted.. Was the install straightforward? I've found them but the install appears difficult; I can only access two out of three screws on the LHS one, and one out of three (washer bottle in the way) on the RHS.

 

LHS: IMG_7406.JPG

RHS: IMG_1063.JPG

 

 

BTW, unrelated but I've ordered some of these for my rear fogs - will report back once they're installed ;)

To be able to change the ballasts you have to remove the headlamps and that is impossible without removing the bumper.

I spent some time with checking other possibilities but there's no other way.

Bumper removal is well described here (thanks xpower).

Removing the torx screw behind the headlamp is a serious pain in the :moon: . Thank you Skoda!

I ended up removing the wheel liners as well to gain some access to the screw. Once it is loosened you can rotate (and remove) it by hand as it is a metric screw not self tapping like all the others.

Some advice: mark the beam pattern carefully on your garage wall before removing the headlamps. Also take some photos of the fixing screws. Then you'll be able to put them back in their original position. You can't ruin the height adjustment but it's possible on the side adjustment.

Replacing the ballasts is a 5 minute job once the headlamps are out...

I did the whole thing alone and it took 4-5 hours. Yes, worth it. :thumbup:

And note that the color temperature will shift a little bit to the yellowish side as visible in my pictures. If you are a fan of cool white light you may have to buy new bulbs (Osram CBI for example).

Color changing is only visible on the road which is good news.

Edited 28 December, 2016 by aki78

[mabnz]

To be able to change the ballasts you have to remove the headlamps and that is impossible without removing the bumper.

I spent some time with checking other possibilities but there's no other way.

Bumper removal is well described here (thanks xpower).

Removing the torx screw behind the headlamp is a serious pain in the :moon: . Thank you Skoda!

I ended up removing the wheel liners as well to gain some access to the screw. Once it is loosened you can rotate (and remove) it by hand as it is a metric screw not self tapping like all the others.

Some advice: mark the beam pattern carefully on your garage wall before removing the headlamps. Also take some photos of the fixing screws. Then you'll be able to put them back in their original position. You can't ruin the height adjustment but it's possible on the side adjustment.

Replacing the ballasts is a 5 minute job once the headlamps are out...

I did the whole thing alone and it took 4-5 hours. Yes, worth it. :thumbup:

And note that the color temperature will shift a little bit to the yellowish side as visible in my pictures. If you are a fan of cool white light you may have to buy new bulbs (Osram CBI for example).

Color changing is only visible on the road which is good news.

 

Hmm, that sounds like a bit more involved than I expected. I might see if the local dealer will do it for cheap. I've got ACC too so I'd need to be careful about putting the front-facing radar back in precisely the same spot.

 

Thanks aki78! :)

[xpower]

Hmm, that sounds like a bit more involved than I expected. I might see if the local dealer will do it for cheap. I've got ACC too so I'd need to be careful about putting the front-facing radar back in precisely the same spot.

Thanks aki78! :)

My cars got ACC, the sensors attached to the car not the bumper. Removing it doesn't disturb the ACC sensor in any way.

[xpower]

It took a while but finally the 45W ballasts arrived and I fitted them yesterday.

The result is fantastic, let the comparison pictures and videos talk. :)

Looks like a good alternative to my setup and much much simpler.

Imagine another 5 / 10 watts on top with some 5500k bulbs :-)

[mabnz]

My cars got ACC, the sensors attached to the car not the bumper. Removing it doesn't disturb the ACC sensor in any way.

 

Very tempted. The laws around headlights here in NZ are frustrating - certain modifications to the headlights from standard are frowned upon. I'm not sure how they'd tell the ballast was modified though.

 

When run at 45W, what colour temp would those Osram CBI's end up at? I prefer the whiter light.

Edited 31 December, 2016 by mabnz