I opened a PayPal claim & this is the response I received back from Morimoto.

 

This has now been escalated to a PayPal claim, so we must first let that be resolved first. If you would like for us to send out a pair of new bulbs instead of allowing these bulbs to properly break in, we're glad to do so via USPS but again ask that the claim be canceled first.

Our apologies for any inconveniences or confusion here. 

Regards,

Mia

 

 

I replied with.

 

Hi

 

I don't understand how you can tell me that flickering or twitching bulbs is acceptable? & in order for you to deal with this, I must close the PayPal claim!

 

I'm sorry but I won't be closing the claim as I feel that is blackmail, I will be keeping the claim open as you should of responded with a better resolution.

 

The simple answer that you should of told me, is that "the bulbs are faulty as they should not flicker" there is no way a new set of bulbs should flicker & are unlikely to improve after burning in!

 

I suggest that you actually really look at the Paypal claim & check the attached links that I have provided to show the bulbs flickering & twitching, there is no way that brand new bulbs should be doing this & will only get worse after burning in & your telling me to carry on with this procedure which in turn can cause more issues to my vehicles lighting system!!

 

There reply back is:

 

I'm sorry for any confusion, as yes new HID bulbs absolutely can flicker and sputter until the halide salts settle in. This is normal even with OEM bulbs such as Osram or Philips as well, in fact.

We'll be glad to either refund you in full or send you a new pair of bulbs (which too will likely have this same characteristic). However to do so, the claim must be closed as we cannot physically refund anything with the claim holding the funds.

Bulbs breaking in will not cause any issues with your stock ballasts or wiring since they output to the bulb and not vice-versa. Not to worry.

Please let us know which route you prefer to take and we'll be glad to help get it resolved to your liking

Regards,

Mia

 

 

so what do you guys think is the correct or appropriate action to take, I feel like I'm being to harsh but at the same time I can understand there reply but it's cost me nearly £150.00 with import tax charges now so my patience is really getting thin!

 

any help guys would be truly appreciated as what to do next...

 

 

 

fitted the osram nightbreaker ones last week not a hint of flickering, took about 10 hours to settle down colour temperature wise and have remained constant since

Ok so another update:

 

Morimoto have agreed to supply another set of D3s 5500k bulbs but will run them in-house for a week before sending them out to me, which I feel is a reasonable resolution.

 

It's just a shame that I had to open a Paypal case in-order to get this resolved but I'm more than happy for them to sort out the replacements, test them in house & send them out to me etc...

 

Sorry guys for spamming this thread  I will update this thread if they are true to their word & once I receive the new bulbs so a little more spamming to come 

Ok guys so here is an update as regards the replacement Morimotos D3s bulbs 5500k:

 

The other day with the Morimotos bulbs still in my vehicle I was still getting the flickering & twitching etc but was also getting on the maxidot "check drivers dipped light" to which I noticed was not lit/working, tried a few times engine off & restarted engine but again the drivers side dipped beam was not lighting up  I then drove for 30mins until I reached a petrol station & filled up, restarted the engine & the drivers side dipped beam was working & carried on working even when I got home which took another 30 odd minutes.

 

I thought sod this & just replaced them dodgy Morimotos (1st batch) with the original Phillips D3s bulbs.

 

So today I received the new replacements from Morimoto  have to say that Morimoto was true to there word & sent me out a new pair as agreed with them & they tested them in house for a week prior to sending them out to me  so I have to say that the customer service is very decent as we got there in the end 

 

I have just installed the new Morimotos D3s 5500k bulbs & had the engine running for 20mins with the dipped beam on & so far I haven't noticed a flicker or twitch from them  so even thou I will be on a constant paranoid tip  I will be checking the dipped beams to make sure everything is all as it should of been in the first place. (Hopefully fingers crossed) 

 

If anyone experiences the issues I have as regards the bulbs flickering or twitching etc...at least you will know what the problem is. I will update the thread with a proper short reply once the bulbs have been in for at least a week with no issues.

 

A few pics:

 

That's good news - but are they significantly better than stock?

@BATVANVRS Glad you sorted the fiasco with the original set of bulbs. They look quite blue from the images, especially compared to the DRL strip. How do they appear in person? I know camera settings and white balance etc can have a massive effect on how they appear in images.

17 hours ago, johnrowley said:

That's good news - but are they significantly better than stock?

 

I actually tested them last night & I found them to definitely be a improvement over the stock phillips bulbs, I wouldn't say a huge improvement because without changing the ballasts that's when I suppose you would notice the huge improvement in terms of further light beam projection etc...But as for colour temperature there definitely much better, more white with a suttle tang of blue  as compared to the original phillips stock which I found them to be more yellow with a tang of white. Its actually a better light on the road with the morimoto's if I'm honest, more pleasant on the eye & the reflections of light from the vehicle in front of you or street signs actually look more pleasing on the eye.

 

16 hours ago, ahenners said:

@BATVANVRS Glad you sorted the fiasco with the original set of bulbs. They look quite blue from the images, especially compared to the DRL strip. How do they appear in person? I know camera settings and white balance etc can have a massive effect on how they appear in images.

 

They do look quite blue from the images above, just as the DRL in the last 2 images actually look a bit yellowish, I suppose it does not help that my car is dirty & needs a clean but the lights actually look a lot better in person as the camera does not pick up the true light effect or colour temperature etc, there definitely more white with a tang/hint of blue, also my DRL's are set to dim when the dipped beam is on (maybe why the last 2 images look a bit yellow?) or just dirty lenses & needs a clean.

 

I will try a post up a video later on tonight so at least we can see the lights at night on how they look but before doing that I will at least give the lenses a clean/wipe down.

Thought I might take a punt on the 45w ballasts, however they seem to be unavailable now 

 

Guess I will have to wait until someone manages a retrofit of the FL LED into the old (nice-looking) lights! 

7 hours ago, flybynite said:

Thought I might take a punt on the 45w ballasts, however they seem to be unavailable now 

 

Guess I will have to wait until someone manages a retrofit of the FL LED into the old (nice-looking) lights! 

Or

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Factory-price-2016-New-D1S-D2S-D3S-D4S-Xenon-Ballast-45W-8A-12V-Fast-Start-Ballast/32727771323.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.108.9fsFBx&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10068_10501_10000074_10503_10000032_119_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10059_10099_10000013_10103_10102_10000016_10096_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10107_10050_10106_10051_10000097_10000094_10000053_10000007_10000050_10084_10083_10000100_10119_10000047_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10115_10116_10000041_10000044_10078_10079_10000038_10073_10000035_10122_10120_10121-10050_10503_10501_10110,searchweb201603_2,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_1,single_sort_3_default&btsid=69579a60-c488-44f3-9c1a-78df31b1a5c7

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/holy-sale-2016-newest-factory-price-ballast-45w-8A-12v-thick-fast-bright-D-Series-hid/32725990619.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.44.fdaYo0&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10068_10501_10000074_10503_10000032_119_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10059_10099_10000013_10103_10102_10000016_10096_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10107_10050_10106_10051_10000097_10000094_10000053_10000007_10000050_10084_10083_10000100_10119_10000047_10080_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10115_10116_10000041_10000044_10078_10079_10000038_10073_10000035_10122_10120_10121-10503_10501,searchweb201603_2,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_1,single_sort_3_default&btsid=69579a60-c488-44f3-9c1a-78df31b1a5c7

 

Edit: Because I posted the wrong links 

Edited 13 February, 20179 yr by BATVANVRS

On 16.1.2016 at 22:23, xpower said:

Hi all,

Some of you may know that I am a lighting enthusiast, I have completed a few retro fits and unfortunately the STD lights on the vRS just don't cut it. The AFS is quite good but the light source isn't.

I have currently upgraded my Std Phillips bulls for a set of genuine Osram D3S CBI's which do make a slight improvement but not much.

I have been looking at retrofitting a set of BI-LED projectors but the cost is quite high (set of head lights to work on, set of donor BI-LED headlights, LED drivers etc)

Today whilst returning my vRS back to std ready for my new one - hopefully within 4 weeks :-) I came across the ability to change the D3S bulb for a D2S without modifing the headlight.

Then I can fit a set of Morimoto XB55 ballasts and their new D2S 5500k bulb which boasts 4000lm when connected to their 50w ballast. I have ran 55w ballasts (generic ebay ones) on a D2S hella retrofit on my mk2 (thread is on here somewhere) and they were better than the std bi-xenons on my mk3

Pictures of the D2S bulb fitted, there is even an option to export from Oz some 70w ballasts :-)

Hi Xpower & guys

 

Old topic but hopefully I'll get help... 

So, You planned to unplug the original ballast leaving it to its place and install new ballast somewhere? And it gives error free operation?

Now, almost two years later, do You still feel that this is the best way to improve those lights? Or just make a compromise to 45W chinese ballast with good bulbs?

Morimoto has nowdays dealer also in Russia, can any of You recommend it or is it easier to order from the states?

 

Thanks for advance

-Jaska

 

36 minutes ago, Jaska said:

Hi Xpower & guys

 

Old topic but hopefully I'll get help... 

So, You planned to unplug the original ballast leaving it to its place and install new ballast somewhere? And it gives error free operation?

Now, almost two years later, do You still feel that this is the best way to improve those lights? Or just make a compromise to 45W chinese ballast with good bulbs?

Morimoto has nowdays dealer also in Russia, can any of You recommend it or is it easier to order from the states?

 

Thanks for advance

-Jaska

 

 

Hi

 

Yes, leave the old ballast in place and then install the D2S bulb and 50w ballast instead.

 

compared to standard it was a good improvement, much brighter and clearer. I can’t compare to 45w Chinese ballet but all I will say is the quality of the Moro moto was excellent.

You could switch the ballast on and off repeatedly with no issues.

 

I brought from the USA so can’t comment on the Russian dealer.

 

> the 45w ballast is straight forward and easy to fit.

>the 50w ballast is a little more difficult to fit but probably brighter and better quality.

the ballast has to be bought separately? and the cost of D2s only seems to be $60 and it mentions there are two in a pack? that cant be correct? how much are the separate ballasts? all a bit confusing. 

One year (and 60k km) later the chinese 45w ballast are still working well with zero issues.

I am still tempted to buy new bulbs (with higher K), especially because I have a feeling that the factory bulbs have started to shine weaker. 205k km on the clock, so no surprises.

46 minutes ago, aki78 said:

One year (and 60k km) later the chinese 45w ballast are still working well with zero issues.

I am still tempted to buy new bulbs (with higher K), especially because I have a feeling that the factory bulbs have started to shine weaker. 205k km on the clock, so no surprises.

And this is how my bulbs look like now: video

I haven't noticed the milky substance earlier. I am almost sure the inside of the arc tube looked different... Is this a sign of an 'old' bulb?

13 hours ago, aki78 said:

And this is how my bulbs look like now: video

I haven't noticed the milky substance earlier. I am almost sure the inside of the arc tube looked different... Is this a sign of an 'old' bulb?

In that video aki78 it does look like on one side half way up the bulb there is a form of cloud or some mucky substance but I ain't no expert  I will check my original Phillips D3S that use to be in my vRS until I changed to the Morimotos & will report back to you etc.

9 hours ago, BATVANVRS said:

In that video aki78 it does look like on one side half way up the bulb there is a form of cloud or some mucky substance but I ain't no expert  I will check my original Phillips D3S that use to be in my vRS until I changed to the Morimotos & will report back to you etc.

OK, thanks in advance. I am just curious.

Actually there are two separate cloudy surfaces in front of each other. When the bulb is mounted these are on the top and bottom.

On one side it's clean white (facing upwards) and the other is mixed with coloured dots (salt)? The colorful dots were visible earlier, but the milky surface is 'something new'.

Both bulbs look the same.

Edited 6 December, 20178 yr by aki78

@aki78

 

Here is 2 video's of my original Phillip's bulbs but I have not been using these since Feb this year but the Phillip's bulbs have been in my vRS since 2013 till Feb 2017 & sorry in advance for my lame recording mode non existing skills 

 

Edited 29 March, 20188 yr by BATVANVRS

5 minutes ago, BATVANVRS said:

@aki78

 

Here is 2 video's of my original Phillip's bulbs but I have not been using these since Feb this year but the Phillip's bulbs have been in my vRS since 2013 till Feb 2017 & sorry in advance for my lame recording mode non existing skills 

 

 

 

Many thanks, your bulb look the same inside the arc tube.

Edited 7 December, 20178 yr by aki78

2 minutes ago, aki78 said:

Many thanks, your bulbs look the same.

 

No worries mate  you always help us out so glad to return some help back to you  but yes the bulbs do look the same & on that assumption I would say that your bulbs look fine.

Guys just one question. How does one prevent errors from Dashboard using stronger Xenons? Is that possible without special coding (I do have simple ODB11 thingie)?

My car is absolutely happy with the 45W ballasts. No coding, no errors, they are working like the originals.

1 hour ago, aki78 said:

My car is absolutely happy with the 45W ballasts. No coding, no errors, they are working like the originals.

Very interesting. I always thought that BCM module is monitoring amperage / voltage going to specific bulb/light (any bulb outside car) and when that goes abnormal it shuts down the light and shows the issue on dashboard. I was first thinking to get LED instead of Xenon into my car (I got Superb 3) but more legal way would be better balasts and new bulbs right? And pricing doesn't seem much off.

Thanks for that info!

Well just over 12 months down the line & the replacement Morimotos bulbs I was given now seem to flicker again  I noticed it the other day when it was raining & as I pulled up behind a car in traffic I saw the drivers side light flicker a few times but it don’t come up as a fault on the maxi dot like the 1st set I had, which had the same type of flickering etc... Think I’m definitely going to either put back in the originals or I might buy these!

 

 https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-xenarc-cool-blue-boost-d3s-twin

 

plus you get 25% off but it says there not road legal, don’t know why?

Edited 29 March, 20188 yr by BATVANVRS

New ballast... 

im interested... 

http://s.aliexpress.com/VvY3MbmI

22 hours ago, JackySi said:

Very interesting. I always thought that BCM module is monitoring amperage / voltage going to specific bulb/light (any bulb outside car) and when that goes abnormal it shuts down the light and shows the issue on dashboard. I was first thinking to get LED instead of Xenon into my car (I got Superb 3) but more legal way would be better balasts and new bulbs right? And pricing doesn't seem much off.

Thanks for that info!

There must be some tolerances in the system.

For example the factory coding is the same (allgemeine scheinwerfer) for the 35W H8 fog lights and the 55W H7 low beams.

By the way I did another 20k km without a single fault, so this is 80k km in total. According to my quick calculation this is about 300-400 working hours so far.

Edited 30 March, 20188 yr by aki78