Good morning everyone.

 

Haven't been on here in a while, just been enjoying driving the vRS and having fun, but recently the central locking seems to have been playing up.

 

First the passenger door refused to unlock (deadlocked) and now the boot has followed suit about a month later!

 

From doing a bit of research on here and else where on the internet it seems it could be a faulty door lock module / mechanism or microswitch on that mechanism or bad solder joints on it.

 

My question is does the door lock module on the drivers door control all the doors on the rest of the car or do I have to remove and repair / replace both the passenger door lock module and the boot lock module aswell?

 

I have all the symptoms of a faulty drivers door lock module anyway as the buzzer for headlights being left on doesn't work and the interior light doesn't stay on either.

 

Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

 

Going to get the door card off some night this week and have a look at it

 

Cheers,

 

Aaron

Should maybe word this a bit better...if the drivers door lock module is faulty would it cause other doors to not open and become deadlocked?

 

Again, thanks in advance for any help and sorry for asking a question that has been covered many times before. Did lots of searches but couldn't find anything relating to this question lol

Managed to source a genuine one from a local dealer for £90 so I'll get that changed over soon and see if that helps it. I'll keep you posted

Do you mean the lock mechanism, or the module that is plugged in to the window motor? The interior light issues probably are down to the microswitch in the mech but the communication to other doors could be a problem with the window motor module. May be a daft question or my reading it but what did you buy?

If it was the mech a lot of people go Chinese or used genuine ones, if you've bought that is it too late to cancel the order and save £65? If it's the module 90 don't sound too bad in terms of I thought they were over 100...

Sorry, it really confuses me all this door lock mech / module carry on.

 

I've ordered a new lock mechanism (part number 3B2837016T) as from my understanding this is the bit with the microswitch that causes all the issues with the interior lights etc.

 

So the actual module is part of the window regulator then? So one of those may fix my locking issues?

Ok so I was doing a bit more searching and reading today and it looks like the locking problem could be down to water ingress causing the fault of the door control module (which is part of the window motor as far as I can gather) or it could be broken wires in the door loom.

 

I'll find out what the loom and control module is like when I replace the drivers door lock mechanism next week (needs replaced anyway to fix the light and buzzer etc issue.)

 

My question is though, would the failure of the control module or loom causing all my locking issues? Ie: Drivers door won't unlock by remote, but will by key, passenger door deadlocked and boot deadlocked.

 

Thanks again for your help

Ok so I was doing a bit more searching and reading today and it looks like the locking problem could be down to water ingress causing the fault of the door control module (which is part of the window motor as far as I can gather) or it could be broken wires in the door loom.

 

I'll find out what the loom and control module is like when I replace the drivers door lock mechanism next week (needs replaced anyway to fix the light and buzzer etc issue.)

 

My question is though, would the failure of the control module or loom causing all my locking issues? Ie: Drivers door won't unlock by remote, but will by key, passenger door deadlocked and boot deadlocked.

 

Thanks again for your help

Yeah it sounds like you have issues with both the mech and the module. As I say there are cheaper ways to get a new mechanism, probably a good move to do the mech first as it needs doing anyway, you never know what else it may solve.

You're right about water ingress, these modules are a target for water running down and eventually it finds it's way in, corrodes pins on the connector or gets inside the actual module and fries it. This messrs up how the signal received is comunicated to the other doors. Pins can be repaired but it's a bit of a pita. The modules aren't cheap, you can find them used but the part number would have to be an exact match from the same model year or would need coding in with vcds.

Anyway yes, while you fit your mech inspect the module and pins, also the loom where it passes through door pillars and near window regulator runners. I did a post in the tech section about checking and protecting the multiplug which might help. Bowders post here on the microswitch will get you through mech removal and replacement. Need any help give us a shout, although I'm no sparky.

Thank you buddy. Really appreciate that! I'll keep you posted on how I get on.

 

Hopefully I don't need a lock mech for the passenger door and tailgate aswell! Lol

My n/s front passenger door had an intermittent problem where it wouldn't lock, pin wouldn't drop with remote. Cured it with wd40 and spray grease all over the mech after getting door card off, sticky catches are very common. Yours sounds more terminal but it's something cheap to try. Unfortunately I can't find the link but there is a definitive guide on sorting deadlocked doors somewhere, try a Google search with briskoda in the keywords. Oh you could also try thumping the door in mech area just below handle as you operate the locking, might free it up.

I solved my lock issue with my fist and a can of spray maintenance. Worked every time since.

Forgot about this thread guys, sorry.

 

Stripped it and couldn't find any wiring issues so left it with my mechanic to release the passenger door and replace the mechanism. Expensive part but it fixed it lol.

 

Next thing was the boot. Climbed in and released it from the inside, pulled the panel off and a poke around. Figured out the wee motor was sticking and not releasing the mechanism so I could open it from the outside. Thankfully I was able to get one in work so I swapped that over and everything was sorted.

 

Still no light buzzer or interior light or door open warning when the drivers door is open, so I suspect I'll have to replace the driver side door lock microswitch at some stage but at least everything is opening again

Just get one of the new door lock mechanism's that many have fitted on here from ebay and kill the job dead once. they have been in use long enough on here now to show up any issues if they were going to be there.

 

If you check out Group1rs's Octavia build threads, he has fitted one in there, so should be a good source for the details. If you like the idea, pm him, he's a good lad and doesn't bite - (much )

@kentphil1 Cheers buddy, I'll go do some reading now