Another vote for the 402 here. Very pleased with mine.

I've just bought and tested a 512g. Sadly it needs the other type of usb connection to what I had previously installed for another camera. My mini 0806 died a death yesterday and has been returned.

Also, annoyingly, the sucker won't stick to the part of the windscreen next to the lane assist camera that has the black circles on it. I'm thinking of sticking some vinyl wrap over those so the auction cup will stick.

Initial tests seem much better than the mini 0806 and 10 minutes replacing the cable tomorrow will leave me with a permanent install hopefully!

Also, annoyingly, the sucker won't stick to the part of the windscreen next to the lane assist camera that has the black circles on it. I'm thinking of sticking some vinyl wrap over those so the auction cup will stick.

 

I'm surprised the mount won't stick to the black area of the windscreen? All I did was thoroughly clean the sucker and screen with a 15% dilute of Isopropyl alcohol (used in my detailing) and then just ensured the sucker mount was aligned perfectly before I 'clamped' it into place.

 

It's hasn't moved since and despite the size of the camera you can hardly see it from the outside looking in.

 

PS - I went through 3 Mini 0806 cameras, all of which developed the same fault before I jumped over to Nextbase. A pity they suffer from reliability problems as I liked their size and form factor.

Edited 27 May, 201610 yr by fgaffney

Mine initially did stick to the black bit but lately just keep falling down all the time!

 

I've had to move it down a bit so it pokes out under the rear view mirror. Obviously a different arrangement on the MK3 though due to the extra electrics up there.

I've just bought and tested a 512g. Sadly it needs the other type of usb connection to what I had previously installed for another camera. My mini 0806 died a death yesterday and has been returned.

Also, annoyingly, the sucker won't stick to the part of the windscreen next to the lane assist camera that has the black circles on it. I'm thinking of sticking some vinyl wrap over those so the auction cup will stick.

Initial tests seem much better than the mini 0806 and 10 minutes replacing the cable tomorrow will leave me with a permanent install hopefully!

Let me know how did you get on. I`ve just bought a 312GW and got a free hardwire kit    Will install it tomorrow or over the long weekend :clap:

I'm surprised the mount won't stick to the black area of the windscreen? All I did was thoroughly clean the sucker and screen with a 15% dilute of Isopropyl alcohol (used in my detailing) and then just ensured the sucker mount was aligned perfectly before I 'clamped' it into place.

I'll try again! Maybe I want as assertive as I needed to be with it. The 0806 was ok but I wasn't overly impressed with it.

Let me know how did you get on. I`ve just bought a 312GW and got a free hardwire kit Will install it tomorrow or over the long weekend :clap:

Will be fairly easy to swap the cable over, I'll use the old one to pull the new one through!

Had an awful moment on the drive into town after fitting the nextbase. I Had the world's worst rattle, thought I had dislodged something behind the dash or left something loose. Eventually realised that the actual lense of the nextbase was loose. Screwed it tight and noise gone.

Initial impressions are it's a good product though I don't like the mounting system as it's no good for a quick release (remove cable, squeeze tabs and slide off)

Plus the bugger won't stick to the black spotted bit, it did stick for a bit but I heard it fall off when I was in the garage..

May buy the 3m mount but its a long lead time!

If anyone is planning to get a nextbase camera Halfords are offering 15% off selected models. #everylittlehelps oh wait, that's Tesco

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Had an awful moment on the drive into town after fitting the nextbase. I Had the world's worst rattle, thought I had dislodged something behind the dash or left something loose. Eventually realised that the actual lense of the nextbase was loose. Screwed it tight and noise gone.

Initial impressions are it's a good product though I don't like the mounting system as it's no good for a quick release (remove cable, squeeze tabs and slide off)

Plus the bugger won't stick to the black spotted bit, it did stick for a bit but I heard it fall off when I was in the garage..

May buy the 3m mount but its a long lead time!

 

Jus bought a NextBase 212 Lite and they have resigned the mount now incorporating a socket on the base mount and a simple slde out to remove the camera. Much easier but I don't reckon much for the Suction pad, it took a few attempts to get a decent fit.

 

For mine I have stuck it to the windscreen on the Etched area using some rear mirror stick pads so it is almost un-noticable from the outside and covered the silver bits with insulating tape but not covering any vents on the camera.

Edited 1 June, 201610 yr by davitc

bought a 402 yesterday and using it with the 12v adaptor at the mo, but have a hardwire kit as i cant stand wires everywhere! has anyone fitted one to a permanent live fuse for using parking mode? ive seen loys of threads on installs but all seem to use switch live fuses. the kit i have is the nextbase hardwire kit and i think it has battery protection built in to it to detect when battery is low.

many thanks

I fitted a Next Base duo 720p dash cam permanently using a PowerPro unit and piggy back fuses, used the thread on this site to do it.

Looks good and is unobtrusive, good video quality front and rear.

cheers for the reply jimmyg! how have you found the parking mode? havent had any problems with dead batterys or things like that? can you remember which thread you used (there seems to be thousands!) and more importantly which fuse did you piggyback if you can remember? cheers in advance and sorry for the barrage of questions!!

rear wiper fuse 47, blue one behinf the glove box

cheers for the reply jimmyg! how have you found the parking mode? havent had any problems with dead batterys or things like that? can you remember which thread you used (there seems to be thousands!) and more importantly which fuse did you piggyback if you can remember? cheers in advance and sorry for the barrage of questions!!

Parking mode uses a lot of disk space as it activates and records after opening/closing doors and hatch, so after reviewing I format disk then I changed record length down to 30sec, much better.

I used a Power Magic Pro, it turns off power to camera when battery gets to a set level (11.8v is what I have set).

I used the fuses as stated in the thread below.

I used this thread from Aurial 01 Jun 2015.

This is a much better set up than having wires running to power socket/s.

The whole job took me about 30 minutes to complete.

 

 

I had to get a replacement for my dash cam because of a fault. It arrived today, so in order to assist Gallo, and any other prospective dashcam buyers out there who need a pointer in the right direction, I thought I'd remove what I could of my setup to try and give you a step-by-step guide. It's not difficult, so I hope this gives someone the confidence to give it a go.

 

DISCLAIMER: As always, this is entirely at your own risk.

 

I make two apologies up front. First, the state of my car. I did a long DIY detailing session last week but unfortunately the only space I could get in the car park over the weekend was under the bushes / trees so my pride and joy is filthy. Second, the quality of the pics isn't great but the weather is pretty pants today so I've done my best.

 

Also, this is not the only way to do this. Schodoodles and some other helpful users have posted other methods to get things wired up earlier in the thread, so have a look at their methods too and choose whichever you prefer. Schodoodles' is certainly better if you want to run something like a satnav as well as it allows you to power more than one device.

 

My dash cam is the Blackvue DR650 so it has two cameras that record front and rear. I've also got a Power Magic Pro to handle the power side of things. Those are the two bits of kit I'll show you how to fit here, but please do your own research and choose what's right for you.

 

 

The Power Magic Pro is already stuck to the car, but it looks like this

 

The purpose of the power magic pro is to keep your camera running while you're away from the car without running your battery flat. It has a series of jumpers which allow you to set either the battery voltage it will turn the camera off at, or the amount of time to run the camera after you've turned off the ignition. I have mine set to turn off once the battery voltage drops to 11.8v and that seems to work fine for me. You don't need one of these to run a dashcam as they all come with cigarette lighter sockets, it's just for the added benefit of battery safety.

 

You'll also need a pair of these Add A Circuit Fuse Taps.

I got the pair for less than ?4 from eBay. Be sure to get full size ones and not the mini version. You'll need two 5 amp blade fuses to go in them. I also got a plastic panel removal set so as not to damage the panel you need to take off to access the fuse box. A screwdriver may do just as good a job but I didn't want to take any chances with damaging my trim.

 

 

First step is to fit both cameras where you want them. I found that with mine I could mount the holder for the front camera at the very bottom of the black bobbles to the side of the rear view mirror, which kept it hidden behind the mirror from the driver and also meant the windscreen wipers cleared the glass in front of it when it was raining.

 

Next, remove this panel from the passenger side (on U.K. cars) of the dashboard.

 

Which will reveal this cavity

Here you can see why I didn't photograph my Power Magic Pro, as it's already stuck to the inside of this recess. I used a piece of double sided adhesive that came with it to attach it, and it stops it from rattling around in there. Should be easy to remove when I change cars. Now you need to remove your glove box. There are instructions at the back of the owners manual with a diagram of how to do it. It's in the "Fuses" section of the book. Essentially you need to unhook a little arm from the back to the glovebox by poking a screwdriver through a hole which you can't really see in the picture above. Then it's a case of pulling the glovebox upwards to dislodge it. Be brave.

 

Once the glovebox is out your fusebox will be revealed. 

You may have more or less fuses depending on the options you have fitted to your car.

 

The Power Magic Pro has three wires that you need to hook up.

 

(BATT +) Yellow wire - Needs to be connected to an always on fuse.

(ACC) Red wire - Needs a fuse that is only live when the ignition is on (also known as a switched live).

Black wire - Needs to be earthed.

 

In the photo of the Power Magic Pro above I have loosened the bottom of the three bolts to the left of the recess and attached the black earth cable underneath it. I've checked the whole area with a multimeter and you can't really go wrong there wherever you put it as the whole metal plate, and therefore the three nuts are all earthed. The Yellow and Red wires, as you can see, are fed over the top of the metal plate and through a small hole there that drops down to just above and to the left of the fuse box. You'll easily find it with your fingers.

 

Once you've got your wires through feed the bare ends into the ends of your Fuse Taps and squash the metal ends to lock them in place.

 

If you glance back at the picture of the fuse box, we're going to use fuse 47 for the switched live (red wire). Fuse 47 is the blue one on the bottom row and is the fuse for your rear wiper. For the always on current (yellow wire) we'll use fuse 40 which in the picture is the yellow fuse on the row above. Fuse 40 is for the cigarette lighter socket.

 

The first step is to remove both of those fuses. Next, put one 5 amp fuse into each of the fuse taps in the slot directly above the wire. Then put the fuses you've just removed into the spare slot on each tap, which should be the closest slot to the metal pins on the end of the tap. The tap on the red (BATT+) wire should now look like this.

 

And the yellow (ACC) wire should look like this.

It's very important you get these the right way around.

 

 

Once that's done plug the fuse taps into the slots in the fuse box where you removed the fuses from earlier.  Red wire (which now has a blue fuse in the tap) into slot 47, and yellow wire (with yellow fuse) into slot 40. It should look like this.

 

The fuse numbers are embossed into the plastic of the fuse box if you look closely, so that makes things a little easier.

 

Now, so long as you have your earth wire connected to one of the bolts mentioned earlier you are good to go. It's simply a matter of plugging the power cable from the camera into the cigarette plug on the Power Magic Pro and you should have power. Note that there is an On/Off style switch on the power magic. If it is set in the On position it will provide power to the camera whether the ignition is switched on or off. If, however, you have it in the Off position it will only provide power to the camera when the ignition is turned on. I haven't mentioned how to set the jumpers for voltage or time limits, but there are too many permutations to cover so I advise you to look in the instructions. It's very simple.

 

All that remains for you to do now is route the power cable and the connecting cable for the rear camera. Both of these can be tucked into the roof lining along the top of the windscreen quite easily. From there I ran mine tucked into the top of the A pillar, and brought the power cable down the door side of the A piller into the recess where the power magic is. The cable for the rear camera I just carried on around the edge of the roof lining all the way to the back of the car.

 

Once your glovebox is back in place and you've put the plastic panel back on it's job done. Make yourself a cup of tea.

 

Parking mode uses a lot of disk space as it activates and records after opening/closing door and hatch.

I used a Power Magic Pro, it turns off power to camera when battery gets to a level (11.8v is what I have set).

I used the fuses as stated in the thread above.

john and jimmy thanks for the replys much appreciated! i wored it up the other night to fuse 47 (rear wiper) which powers it up with the ignition for the time being so at least the wirings all done now . i may change it when time permits to a permanent live (40 by the look of the thread). ive got a 32g card which is the biggest itll take but it did cross my mind about storage so thanks jimmy for addressing that too!

cheers again both mucho appreciato!

Ive just bought a nexbase duo - Anyone know if the rear facing camera can be zoomed so it looks further beyond its current setting?

Ive just bought a nexbase duo - Anyone know if the rear facing camera can be zoomed so it looks further beyond its current set

 

You can zoom in the rear camera in playback mode on PC, you cannot do it on the camera itself whilst playing back video.

Does anybody know if there is a dashcam that has a format SD Card function?

If not, I'll not bother

Blackvue

 

I have the 450 - about £120 easy to fit very discreet and excellent quality - even copes with 128Gb micro SD