I decided to change my fuel filter (2,0 TDI, CR). Everything seems to be easy in theory but in real life everything is not that easy. Everything ended with stuck bolts.

I managed to loosen two of them and I sprayed some WD-40 on other hoping to loosen them later. Probably it will work with two of them but not with the 5th - some mechanic previously has broken his torx screwdriver while unscrewing the 5th bolt and the very end of the screwdriver has been left in the bolt. Obviously it's there forever and I have to think differently.

To make it even worse, it's the top bolt in the picture (The closest to the windshield fluid tank. Thanks for the picture Silver1011, hope you don't mind using it). It has 2 pipes around not allowing to use alternative tools...

 

Removing 1 or 2 nearest pipes might be the solution. Is it safe to do that or maybe I might get a diesel fountain? What about putting them back (I mean air bubbles into the system)?

Thanks in advance.

 

Nobody can say a thing a thing about those fuel pipes?

You can remove the pipes. Changing filter going to get air in there anyway. I do belive you need to prime the filter with vagcom too if its the cr engine

Crap, really?

That makes everything way more complex.

as what is left of the torx bit should be hardned give it a thump with a centre pop and then put a magnet over it, it may just come out, as said you can remove the pipes without any issues.

 

John

(The closest to the windshield fluid tank. Thanks for the picture Silver1011, hope you don't mind using it).

 

No problem!

 

The HEX screw heads have a nice high, flat side to them which makes it possible to get a small pair of mole grips on them. Soak them in WD40 and give it a try. You should be able to move the fuel lines out of the way enough to gain access without disconnecting them...

 

 

Alternatively this little kit looks quite neat...

 

 

Again the pipes can remain in place, I really prefer not to remove and reattach fuel pipe joints if possible.

Edited 31 May, 201610 yr by silver1011

Crap, really?

That makes everything way more complex.

 

It is recommended to prime the pump using VCDS, however I didn't on mine...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/346425-oil-and-air-filter-change-skoda-superb-cr140-cffb/

 

I was just very careful to leave as much fuel inside the fuel filter housing as possible (let it drain out of the old filter for 10 minutes and placed the new filter in very slowly, not spilling any fuel in the process). Everything was fine!

Edited 31 May, 201610 yr by silver1011

I have that set of Irwin extractors with the additional add on set which fits in the other side of the case. They have been in my toolbox for years and I have used one of them once to get me out of a sticky situation which would of involved drilling, cutting, or grinding and probably a new bolt.

 

Just for that occasional use to bail you out of the **** is as good a reason as any to have a set in your garage.

I just did my VRS CR. You do not need to prime with vagcom.

 

I removed the filter housing top, took the filter out, removed the fuel from the filter housing, cleaned the housing out, replaced the O-ring, half filled the housing with clean fuel and put the new filter in slowly. 

 

I topped up the filter housing so the fuel was just above the filter, lubricated the O-ring with fuel, lined up the pipe in the centre of the filter and fitted the top, tightening the screws a couple of turns at a time to make sure the top and O-ring went in straight.

 

Once the top screws were all nipped up I wiped down the filter housing so I could see if any leaks appeared.

 

I started the car and there was no issue at all. No priming or fuelling problems and so far, no leaks.

I just did my VRS CR. You do not need to prime with vagcom.

 

I removed the filter housing top, took the filter out, removed the fuel from the filter housing, cleaned the housing out, replaced the O-ring, half filled the housing with clean fuel and put the new filter in slowly. 

 

I topped up the filter housing so the fuel was just above the filter, lubricated the O-ring with fuel, lined up the pipe in the centre of the filter and fitted the top, tightening the screws a couple of turns at a time to make sure the top and O-ring went in straight.

 

Once the top screws were all nipped up I wiped down the filter housing so I could see if any leaks appeared.

 

I started the car and there was no issue at all. No priming or fuelling problems and so far, no leaks.

 

Its not a case of the engine not starting, priming the fuel system is to minimise the risk of the HPFP and aux. p/p running dry. Ignore maintenance procedures at your own peril.

The only issue with that is having a supply of clean diesel to hand.

 

It does however give you the opportunity to properly empty and clean out the fuel filter housing.

 

Luckily mine was pretty clean...

 

Did you utilise your Pela?

Drill out the debris or if all else failsHacksaw blade to convert it to a slotted head

I did here the hpfp are very delicate on the vw cr lump and in no way should you try to start without priming first. I know i wouldnt risk it but everyone to there own.

Did you utilise your Pela?

 

I didn't have it when I last changed the fuel filter on the Superb, I bought it for the Octavia as I didn't fancy trying to remove the steel engine tray by myself.

 

Saying that I swapped the oil out on the Superb last week and dropped it out of the sump.

 

Never considered using the Pela for the fuel filter, would work a treat though to clean any chaff out of the bottom!

Thanks for your support!

Now I definetely have plenty of new ideas and probably in some free time I'll try to work this out.

Till today I was thinking about a possible purchase of VCDS but seems like I'll do that (and in such case I have no problems with work with air in the filter). It seems that this tool might be handy sometimes and I usually like some new toys - just for fun

 

Btw, seems like I can't even buy a new filter without finding out which one I got. At least MANN website shows that I could be using one of possible three filters

To find out which fuel filter you need you can look at the sticker on the outside of the fuel filter housing.

 

Chances are you'll need the UFI style filter, which will be confirmed by the sticker...

 

Pull out the headlamp nearest the filter to make it easier to read the label on the filter housing.

Hey, thanks, that sounds useful!

ive changed the fuel filters on the pd engine and neva bleed the system.

ive changed the fuel filters on the pd engine and neva bleed the system.

PD and CR are different systems, what applies and works for one may not be suitable for the other. I changed the fuel filter on 1.4 16v Fabia without priming the fuel system, just as relevant.

PD and CR are different systems, what applies and works for one may not be suitable for the other. I changed the fuel filter on 1.4 16v Fabia without priming the fuel system, just as relevant.

didn't know that!

didn't know that!

Everyday is a school day

I was on the understanding that the PD fuel pumps self-prime with the ignition, therefore cycling the ignition a couple of times fills the system.

 

The CR is apparently different somehow?

 

Saying that our 2016 Octavia audibly primes the fuel system just before the engine starts so in short - I've no idea 

The pds defo do self prime with ignition and works great for priming after filter change. Cr do still have a primer pump but not sure if its active on ignition on or not. Just after reading ftom the experts iv never risked it. It could just be a precaution to bleed with vag com to make sure hpfp is primed.