Hello

I bought a lovely Fabia Elegance Estate recently and have been struggling ever since with problems wth the immobiliser.

The yellow car/key symbol flashes ad the car will not start. After turning it on and off for up to 10 minutes it FINALLY goes out and I can start the car.

It is intermittent.

I read this forum and replaced a wire in the loom, also my mechanic noticed difference in the voltage in the wiring earthing the car. Replaced that.

Still happening.

Occasionally moving steering wheel up and down and in and out works.

Any ideas?

Could there be a problem between key and ignition communication?

Thanks, feeling very frustrated as the car is excellent otherwise. Owned a Toyota Corolla for 10 yrs before, reluctant change but now love mySkoda.

Laura

Do you have a spare key?

Hello Tech1e. Thanks for response.

Yes, it seems to happen with both keys, I take them out and turn them around, alternate them, etc.

So one can assume it's not the key. You have replaced the wiring so that leaves the reader coil on the barrel or the dash cluster.

On my thread about the wiring loom there was a member that fed back that they had a problem with the connection within the cluster.

Ok, thanks - I will look that one up and show my mechanic and try that....I really hope this is possible to resolve! So weird that it seems to resolve for a few days then just happens again out of the blue. Will check in with an update in a few days.

Thanks again, fingers crossed !

Reflow the solder joints on the dash cluster where the wires to the reader coil connect.

Before resoldering stuff, try to take off the instruments panel. It's an easy job and re-seat the two plugs (one for power and one for immo). It worths a shot. 

Before resoldering stuff, try to take off the instruments panel. It's an easy job and re-seat the two plugs (one for power and one for immo). It worths a shot.

If they have done the wiring mod that would have been removed already.

I've had some issues with my panel ... the gauges were not calibrated so I had to take all the things apart and try different needle positions. About each and every time I had to reseat the immo connector after putting all the stuff back in it's place. 

The green plug can be tricky to fit.

Yep...it was fun to get it out!)

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Thanks for all the replies. Beginning to lose faith....have just sat in the car for 20 minutes trying to start it, yellow car symbol just keeps flashing!

Thanks for all the replies. Beginning to lose faith....have just sat in the car for 20 minutes trying to start it, yellow car symbol just keeps flashing!

 

Was that the advice you were given then?

 

Just sit there and flatten the battery?

 

Try fixing it first!

Is it possible to remove/disable the immobilise??

I am facing having spent £775 (+£300+ when I have the cam belt changed) and ending up with a car that does not work!!!

Any ideas gratefully received.

Am trying the fix suggested in another thread, try and start, leave key in, manually lock, come back in 30 mins and see if yellow car symbol off....worked for another member. Will let you know!

Is it possible to remove/disable the immobilise??

I am facing having spent £775 (+£300+ when I have the cam belt changed) and ending up with a car that does not work!!!

Any ideas gratefully received.

Am trying the fix suggested in another thread, try and start, leave key in, manually lock, come back in 30 mins and see if yellow car symbol off....worked for another member. Will let you know!

 

Dude, that's rubbish, you might as well sit there and pray.

 

I have direct experience of the problem, I fixed it by reflowing the solder joints on the dash PCB.

A reflow is pretty much DIY and it takes less than 1 hour. There are a lot of youtube videos if you haven't done it before. If you don't have all the tools, any computer repair shop should have one of those to have it fixed for you. It shouldn't be expensive either.

Later edit: Don't be cheap with the flux.

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Edited 2 July, 201610 yr by Alexandru

Totally appreciate your replies; feeling a bit more hopeful. Will share the info with my mechanic on Monday and hope we can resolve this.

You don't need a mechanic. You need a geek with a heatgun...and flux.

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Aha, I have a son who is a heating engineer......

Freedom, re; reflowing the solder joints, Could you please send me a link to the YouTube vids? Cannot seem to find them, probably not using the right words in the search.

Also, yesterday the fuel gauge suddenly reads nil. I know there is fuel in there. And the coolant warning beeps and flashes sometimes, although I know there is enough there. The whole electronic system seems to be going haywire.....

Ta v. Much.

I really do appreciate the time everyone has taken to help me, feeling much heartened. If I can find a YouTube video and show it to my son, maybe we can solve this!!

Sepulchrave, I have stopped my pointless and futile efforts, you are right that I was simply draining the battery and getting nowhere. I will follow sensible advice and hope for success.

This is a computer logic board repair video, but the procedure is pretty much the same for any.

https://youtu.be/YnKosaoB0Vs?t=294

 

On short, 3 steps:

 

1. clean the board (dust and stuff)

2. pre-heat the board at ~200C

3. apply flux and heat it at over 250C, but don't exceed 300. I'd take some time at this step. I usually don't count how long I'm heating the PCB, maybe 5 to 10 minutes.

4. clean the excess flux and mount back together.

Alternatively just use a soldering iron to remelt each connector pad on the PCB, it's only where the connectors are soldered that need doing.

Beaten to it by sepulchrave.

Edited 2 July, 201610 yr by Wino

Soldering iron is what I would do.

As it has been said before.

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