Skoda UK, Milton Keynes.

 

A common practice, register the car (to keep monthly sales up) and let management run them as company cars for a few months.

 

Then use them to feed the approved used car scheme and keep their dealer network in good supply of nearly new cars.

 

Not so popular now, PCH deals are doing a similar job.

So that is one of the genuine 'Management' cars rather than the ones dealers tell you are 'Management' and are ex-rental cars ........

Mine was. If that's what you were asking.

Andy is also right, a line coughed up by many a car salesman!

Personally, saying its a 'management' car means absolutely nothing. It may infer something but all I care about is what I can negotiate. I got a 6 month old vrs tsi in the spec I wanted with a full warranty, breakdown cover for well under 20k, with six thousand miles on the clock.

I'd be surprised if any rental company keeps a car on the books for less than six months and 6k and then sells back to the manufacturer....

They are short term leases.

 

Vauxhall used to do it with BSM driving school cars as well - 10k or 12 months and it came back to VX to be sold as a 1 owner nearly new ........

So. not rental. Leasing to Skoda UK staff.

No, the rental companies get heavily discounted short term leases. It is good advertising for the brand, more cars on the road, people get to drive them who wouldn't normally etc. They will be on a fixed term or mileage and then back in to the dealer network they go as 6-12mth old used cars.

 

I am not saying all of these 'Management' cars are ex-rentals, but caveat emptor

With a warranty on them for a further 2 years I can't see how having a unquantifiable 'type' of driver driving it is an issue? The person driving it is responsible for the cars condition. it's as new when you buy it, you can visually see its in perfect condition, it's been services, it has a full warranty. What's the difference or perceived risk increase over buying a car that hasn't been leased? Whichever car you buy, you have no idea if it's been thrashed or not, and even if it has, where's the evidence to support a presumption that it may or may not be less reliable after the three year warranty period is up?

Edited 9 July, 20169 yr by Mallettsmallett

I wouldn't buy an ex-rental or driving school car regardless of warranty provided. Having spent more than a decade working at main dealers in the 90s you get to see how some of these cars are treated.

 

I am not dissing your particular car so please don't take this personally.

It's OK. It's just one of those things. I worked for the RAC may years ago and my job was to analyse data on breakdowns across ages and manufacturers and there was really no statistical long-term reliability correlation between a car coming into trade from the major lease companies. Ironically, it was the privately owned from new cars that were less reliable as owned weren't as rigorous around servicing and safety.

I think it's true that there's a perception that a hire car is thrashed, but its more likely to have been pranged than thrashed.

Anyway, back on topic, I'm off to do a few emergency stops to clean up the brakes

Edited 9 July, 20169 yr by Mallettsmallett

Major lease companies tend to be company car drivers though, and contrary to popular belief they are a tool for the job so are have to be reliable and maintained.

Brakes were like that when I collected it, heard the scraping as I drove away but put it down to a light surface corrosion as it had been raining for the past 24 hours. It's not improving though.

 

I will call down to the dealership tomorrow and mention the '30 day reject' clause, see if that galvanises them into action, the service so far has been diabolical so let's see.

 

This pic is the OSR;

 

My brakes will look similar if I haven't driven the car for some days and the weather has been wet. An "emergency full stop" from 80km/h will usually clear them.

 

On one occasion the car was parked outside an airport for 7 days in the cold and wet January. I also had the pulsing and scrubbing, but a few very hard stops from 80 cleared them. 

 

The rear disks are usually the worst because the braking effect is largest on the front, so if you are too good reading the traffic and rarely use the brakes they will have to be replaced often. 

Come to Crewe and see how many 6 month old VWs Audi's Seats and Skoda's there are knocking about.

They are all on the Bentley lease scheme for employees and go back at 6 months thereby ensuring a constant supply of low mileage one owner cars.

There aren't that many managers....

Although they do usually insist on high standards at the return.

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Most of the managers I know are massive c#ck knockers anyway. It's funny how you infer that it being owned by someone in a managerial position is somehow automatically gold plating it.

Edited 9 July, 20169 yr by Mallettsmallett

I'm not inferring anything of the sort.

What I am saying I'd that numerically there are not that many managers at the plant so it's a bit naughty to say they are management cars as any employee is entitled to the scheme.

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Sorry, that was the royal 'you' not you personally. Probably made more sense saying 'they'.

Edited 9 July, 20169 yr by Mallettsmallett

Yeh I don't think those brakes look that bad, certainly should be salvageable with a few brisk stops from highish speed.

Hard to tell from just one photograph, but there is both pitting and scoring. Generally brakes like that have been wet, probably when hot and then left standing for a while, long enough for the rust to pit the surface of the disk. (think, one last really fast run, jet wash, then sat on forecourt for couple of weeks)

 

The brakes are then used and the (now fairly substantial) rust deposits get bedded into the leading section of the pad which if bad enough gives the scoring you see.

 

If it is just light rust you can burn it off with use but if it is heavier I have found you have to re-dress the pad manually. If you are doing that for what it costs you may as well put some new disks on. Pads are usually fine after that as they normally outlast disks these days anyway.

 

You can try some heavy stops from 80 (or 70!) it is the way brake manufacturers like Brembo suggest you bed in new disks, but make sure you cool them off before coming to a stop. If you hold the pads in one place on very hot brakes they will likely warp.

 

I have some of those urban myths on my bench at the moment that have done just that and you can see daylight under a straight-edge. Never known it on the rear but it happens on the front

 

As I said previously If I were the OP I would be back to the dealer to fix as it is newly bought and under 6 months old. Mine are similar age and mileage, only light braking and are completely clean.

Update - DP called me, very apologetic and claimed not to have seen my previous email, upshot being it's going in on Friday for a complimentary check/strip/clean of the brakes and a re-touch of the deep stone chips.

 

I tried the handbrake method described earlier and it has helped clean the face of the rear discs but there is still a vibration when braking from motorway speeds.

 

 

I have some of those urban myths on my bench at the moment that have done just that and you can see daylight under a straight-edge. Never known it on the rear but it happens on the front

 

 

 

Are they warped, or is it a high spot? i.e. is there a corresponding high and low spot on each face?

Are they warped, or is it a high spot? i.e. is there a corresponding high and low spot on each face?

Nah definitely warped. No change in thickness

 

In the past if it was light I could straighten them out by putting a bit (lot) of heat back in and letting them cool slowly - but these are toast

 

Came off one of our white vans - need I say more?