I have had problems with my Skoda of being really sluggish and having very little pulling power, so i got the AA to have a look at it and they diagnosed from the code reader that it is the Boost pressure valve /sensor that is faulty, i researched if further on google and brisk skoda and it turned out the symptoms could be more related to the ~Turbo vanes being sticky so in the first instance i did the Mr Muscle formula to the turbo to unstick the vanes which didn't make a difference i then noticed the actuator on the turbo was gone, so instead replaced the whole turbo and fitted it myself, the only problem we had was the boost leak through the boost pipes wich i got checked out by professionals and it turned out the connectors needed replacing on the pipes, the pipes themselves were fine so got aftermarket connectors fitted on them it cost me £50.00 for 2. whilst fitting the turbo we needed to take off the EGR cooler this has some pipes which are interconnected to which the boost goes through, one of the wholes got cross threaded real bad, so there was a big massive boost leak, to resolve this i ordered heli coil for M8 and inserted it int he whole located on top of butter fly valve and bolted the pipe back on achieved a flush fitting all good.

 

Filled the car with coolant and tested it all was fine but ever since the heaters on the car blow out cold air, when i start the car in the morning with the heaters turned at OFF position and drive it around till it gets to normal operating temperature, and then turn the heaters ON, they blow our hot air but gradually keeps getting colder and colder till its stone cold and then stays there, at the same time after driving car for good 10 - 15mins the car starts shaking as if there was a misfire and turns off when clutch is pressed down wards e.g. at traffic lights and then it is very difficult to start and get back onto the road.

 

The Electric windows controls are not working as well, all this happened after fitting in the turbo.before that heaters and windows were working.

Can somebody please help i would really appreciate it.

Edited 18 October, 20169 yr by saaj85

starting from cold turn the heating to full(hot and fan) then allow the engine to idle for about ten minutes    you should be able to check the flow and return pipes for the heater to see what happens  the miss maybe air locking around the sensor  make sure it's all bled out 

Hi Cheshire cat, Where is the sensor located and how can we get this airlock out of the system.

Are these engines not self bleeding

should self bleed but there is a method to follow-  unless your pump is on the blink

The main fan doesn't work as well, does this indicate something ?