Hi Briskoda. I`m new here and I like very much the job you have done!!!

I have searched the forum but I couldn't find a similar problem.

I have a problem with my newly owned 6Y 1.4 16v fabia with the central locking. It has a very strange operation (well, it doesn't work!). It looks like the whole system powers up intermittently, let's say a cycle or two every second and only for a moment, so I can't really use it at all. The symptoms are:

When I open the front doors, the red lights that are at the door panels starting to flash instead of stay steady light on. The locking and unlocking buttons work only partially and so do the locks of all the doors when locking and unlocking from the drivers door keylock. The key fob simply doesn't work at all. I can't even synchronize it.

I have checked the lock mechanisms for sensor/soldering/contact problems but I didn't find one. The windows motor mechanisms look ok and so do their contacts. I didn't found any corroded or bent pin.

The only problem I found is at the comfort control unit. I found a burnt capacitor and a corrupted pcb trace. I bought an identical ccu from ebay but no change at all. So, either the problem is somewhere else or the new ccu has the same problem from the previous user. Is there any possibility that there is a malfunction somewhere that burns the ccu? Everything else (mirrors, windows, a/c, heated seats, wipers, etc) works just fine.

Any ideas?

Thank you in advance!

Do you have any photos of the damaged CCU?

Do you still have it?

Sounds like wiring loom fatigue failure in the door boot.

One naive question: how can I add fotos?

Open an account at dropbox.com. Put the pics you wish to show in the 'Public folder'. Once there, right click on the ones you want, and choose 'Copy public link' from the dropdown.

Then within a post you're composing on Briskoda, click on the Image icon, halfway along the lower row, then right click in the dialogue box and paste the link you copied from dropbox. Click OK and the image will appear.  It'll look huge, but will be autoscaled by the forum software to something reasonable on the page, after/as the post appears.  Clicking on it once posted zooms it larger again.

 

Other photo-hosting providers exist, and I can't really recommend Dropbox particularly as they tell me they're about to do away with the Public Folder in the next few months, the buggers.

It's very easy to deal with at the moment though.

Edited 11 January, 20179 yr by Wino

Thank you for the immediate answer.

The burnt element is shown at the third foto inside the red rectangular. You can see two smd resistors in vertical order and above them a bridge made of solder by me. There was the element I suppose was a capacitor. Well, the remains looked like a capacitor...

Yes, I think that was a capacitor, quite a large value one for an 0603 package judging by the square cross-section of one I'm looking at on a spare circuit board that looks like yours.

I'm not feeling anywhere near smart enough just now to work out the circuit, but on the other side of the circuit board there's a track from the connector pin above that capacitor, that goes to the interior light relay, which fits with strange goings-on with your door lights, maybe.

 

Multilayer ceramic caps have been known to crack, and then fail short-circuit as metal of the plates migrates through the crack.  Funnily enough the one on this board measures close to zero Ohms from end to end. I wouldn't expect that if it is a capacitor, and it's healthy?

 

 

I'll try to take this board to work tomorrow, take that cap off the board and measure it on its own.

Edited 11 January, 20179 yr by Wino

A healthy capacitor should have infinite resistance once is fully charged. So, giving you a value near zero means that either the capacitor is dead or the circuit has by default other electric "passage". I ll mesure my pcb without the capacitor to see the results.

Yes, it gives me close to zero ohms. Without the fried capacitor, ofcourse.

Edited 11 January, 20179 yr by makymak

Well, looking the electric diagram, I see that there aren't any electronic components between ccu and the lock mechanisms. So, the problem should be at the ccu since the locking mechanisms are all checked. So are the pillar A and B both sides. Everything was found ok. The strainge thing is that the new (well, second hand) identical ccu is behaving the same. So, either I was unlucky enough and was delivered a ccu with the same problem as mine or there is a problem at the power delivery to the central locking part of the ccu. Just a thought.

Well, looking the electric diagram, I see that there aren't any electronic components between ccu and the lock mechanisms.

Hmmmm, or maybe not?

The locking control is mostly done by the other control unit above the clutch pedal, isn't it?

 

This one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-POLO-SKODA-FABIA-CENTRAL-LOCKING-CONTROL-MODULE-ECU-6Q0959433E-/282323550913?hash=item41bbcb82c1:g:OpYAAOSw241Yd2m9

I must admit you are right. Looking more carefully at the wiring diagram I saw a unit called j393 and is the locking module. Everything that deals with the central locking (power locks, windows, interior lighting etc) is control by that module.

Do you know where that part is lockated at a left hand drive mk1 fabia? I guess is over the accelerator pedal, covered by the driver's feet air supply. Am I correct?

Yes, I think so. Find the thread in Fabia Technical Guides describing Evaporator temperature sensor replacement. I think that has some info and photos about this unit on left hand drive cars.

Thank you so much. This is the last chance to success without the use of a diagnostic board (vcds or any similar). I am used to japanese automobiles and the approach of the service bulletins is completely different!!!

No problem. I should have thought to mention this unit sooner. I just started a fitness training programme and my brain isn't getting enough blood.

I' ll try tomorrow to lockate and remove the module.

I found it. I dismantled it but there aren't any signs of burning. I' ll buy a new one and see what will happen.

I found it. I dismantled it but there aren't any signs of burning. I' ll buy a new one and see what will happen.

 

Or you could check the wiring in the drivers door rubber boot, it's a relatively common failure.

Oh, yes. I forgot to mention it. It was the first thing I checked and it is ok.

Well, I have changed the locking module with an identical part number module and everything works ok. The only problem is that the new module is from a 2-electrical windows fabia while mine has all 4 electrical. Due to this, when I scan it with vcds (registered) I get an error of wrong coding. Indeed, the coding number is 00067 while it should be 00259. When I try to change it, the connection is dropping, the controller closes for a moment and then it starts the connection from the beginning without adapting the new code. Do you have any idea why I can't code it? I have tried any baud rate.

What year is the car, and what part number is the module, including anything after the normal 9-numbers-plus-one-or-two-letters format?

The car is a 2000 fabia 1.4 aub elegance. The convenience control module (locking module) is a 6Q0 959 433 C.

And below the part number it has: KSG 4-tuerig Rdw 5DK 008 129-00 I43900

Edited 27 January, 20179 yr by makymak
Adding information

Hmm, I was hoping to be able to help by searching through the huge list of item 6's on this page. Suffix C doesn't seem to feature though.

 

The 008 in the additional part number is consistent with front-only electric windows, as seen in this entry for a 6Q0959433D

The equivalent for front and rear windows appears to be 009, but in this page the base part number has a different suffix, F.

 

I guess these two part numbers have superseded the C-suffix ones that your car was built with, and that you have bought.

 

I guess you need to find either a suffix-C part with 009 in the extra numbers or maybe a suffix-F one with 009; if you can't make the configuration stick with VCDS. I guess maybe those 3-digit numbers refer to different software loaded into the hardware, or possibly even different hardware on the circuit board?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does the original CCU that you have replaced have 009 in that extra string of part numbers after 6Q0959433C?

Edited 27 January, 20179 yr by Wino

Wino, first of all, I want to thank you for your time and effort to help me. Both old and new module have the exact same numbers and additional codes. Fortunately, I have been able to program the new module. The problem was a corrupted cable driver (and I am embarrassed for this!). I reinstalled the drivers and everything is ok, now.