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1.9 SDI consumes 1.8 AMPS turned off


Crni_

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For some time I have a feeling that I have a shot circuit somewhere, and that it is so subtle that it doesn't show any big signs, like that there is a wire that sometimes barely touches the frame and sometimes not. 

Sometimes when I close the drivers door - central lock locks all doors, sometimes when key is in ignition but car is turned off - all central lock locks all the doors.

 

I have tried to measure current consumption when car is turned off by following this tutorial (EricTheCarGuy) and the amp meter show 1.8 A consumption when turned off(picture attached).

 

Conditions when the measurements were taken:

- all door were closed

- all lights were turned off

- the key was out ouf the ignition

- car was turned off 5 minutes before that

- outside temperature was ~3° C

 

Do you have information what should be power consumption for Skoda Fabia Sedan 1.9 SDI from 2001 when the car is turned off?

 

Best regards,

Crni_

 

 

 

 

 

Skoda_amps.jpg

Edited by Crni_
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Last time I checked mine was at battery change. I connected + lead, then with meter on AMPS connected in series from battery -ve to negative lead. Reading was IMHO high at first, then slowly reduced to a figure of the order of tens of milli amps. So if you try it my way - simply disconnect the negative lead and insert meter ( set on high Amp range) between the battery -ve and the negative lead and it's higher than tens of milli amps, then you have problems. Easiest , but most laborious way to find circuit is to leave meter in circuit and remove fuses. Possibly best to remove fuses in groups ,noting which ones you've removed . If drain reduces dramatically, then the circuit to be investigated is one of those supplied by the last set of fuses removed.

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I always make sure the car is locked when I do this and make sure that the bonnet is frigged shut by pressing in the latch.

 

Don't start pulling fuses as this may give you false readings as certain modules may 'wake up'

 

The best way is to measure each circuit is to measure the mV drop across the fuses with them in situ. There is a chart somewhere on the net that will tell you the current passing through each resistor proportional to the mV drop across it. Of course this is different for each rating of fuse

Edited by SuperbTWM
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2 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Now there's a word I haven't heard in a while...

I use the term 'applying a frig' almost daily, the joys of working in a 50 year old power station......:biggrin:

Edited by SuperbTWM
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Got an aftermarket radio in it? Lots of those incorrectly wired up to perm live (either the head unit red/yellow wires the wrong way round, or an aerial booster on the wrong one). Worth disconnecting it if so and measuring.

 

I'd consider any piece of aftermarket kit in the car guilty until proven innocent.

 

Fusebox layout is here (images are broken, but click on the broken images and they will open OK): 

The internal lights fuse might be worth removing to check, in case glovebox or boot lights are on that you can't see!

Edited by wiredsoftware
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22 hours ago, wiredsoftware said:

Got an aftermarket radio in it? Lots of those incorrectly wired up to perm live (either the head unit red/yellow wires the wrong way round, or an aerial booster on the wrong one). Worth disconnecting it if so and measuring.

 

I'd consider any piece of aftermarket kit in the car guilty until proven innocent.

 

Fusebox layout is here (images are broken, but click on the broken images and they will open OK): 

The internal lights fuse might be worth removing to check, in case glovebox or boot lights are on that you can't see!

I hadn't noticed that they were now broken. Must have happened when Colin moved the forum to new software the other week.

Thanks for pointing it out. I'll try and sort the pics out later.

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