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Change engine?

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Hi! I'm thinking about change engine in an 2003 1,2 to 1,4?

 

The electronic is not the same, 3 spark plug til 4 is one big difference. 

 

Do I have to change computer and much more?

 

Is this a possible project?

 

I will change because the original 1,4 4 syl is a much better engine.

 

Have some done this?

 

Yes, you need the whole lot including engine loom, exhaust, ECU and most ancillaries.

 

Doable if you have a complete donor car, but frankly you'd be better off selling yours and buying a 1.4 instead.

I wouldn't day its a much better engine

I've never owned a 1.4 but if your talking about the old 8v MPI then they are not as economical and not really any more powerful. Reliability wise its only really the exhaust valves which cause problems on the 1.2, otherwise its a solid engine.

What's wrong with your current engine anyway?

In terms of a swap you would also need a gearbox & drivehafts to suit the 1.4

 

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On 10. mars 2017 at 22:22, sepulchrave said:

Yes, you need the whole lot including engine loom, exhaust, ECU and most ancillaries.

 

Doable if you have a complete donor car, but frankly you'd be better off selling yours and buying a 1.4 instead.

 

That was what I feared!

That was what I feared!

Yesterday I received an offer of a 1.2 liter engine block from a 12v version.
seller insists that I can use it in my 6v edition.
I use mine separate cylinder head from 6v, when it's 100! with new valve guides and cut seats.

  • Author
On 10. mars 2017 at 22:45, clarendon462 said:

I wouldn't day its a much better engine

I've never owned a 1.4 but if your talking about the old 8v MPI then they are not as economical and not really any more powerful. Reliability wise its only really the exhaust valves which cause problems on the 1.2, otherwise its a solid engine.

What's wrong with your current engine anyway?

In terms of a swap you would also need a gearbox & drivehafts to suit the 1.4

 

The 8 valve 1,4 engine is easy to repair, has double and short drive chain that has longer life and much more. The 1,2 engine is one of the worst engine that has been built. I have worked with engine in more than 40 years so i have a little experience. Im still working with engines, most Volvo. Thats quality!

About the economy : I also have a Fabia with a 1,4 engine. nearly every weekend I'm driving to Sweden - 250 km x2 every time. The gasoline consumption is precise the same - 0,5-0,52 lliter/10 km. 

 

 

Edited by Torbo

  • Author
On 10. mars 2017 at 22:45, clarendon462 said:

I wouldn't day its a much better engine

I've never owned a 1.4 but if your talking about the old 8v MPI then they are not as economical and not really any more powerful. Reliability wise its only really the exhaust valves which cause problems on the 1.2, otherwise its a solid engine.

What's wrong with your current engine anyway? 

The problem is oil consumption! I have got it ok, but not good enough ... 0,3 liter per 1000 km.

 

On 10. mars 2017 at 22:45, clarendon462 said:

In terms of a swap you would also need a gearbox & drivehafts to suit the 1.4

 

 

One of the worst engines that's been built!? Hmmm not sure you really have much to back that up other than having a problem with yours. I know of many people who have them including myself and they just keep going with nothing more than a service every year. 

Mine is on 105000 miles, never been touched other than oil changes and it still has good compression across all cylinders, doesn't use any oil or coolant and runs extremely well

my local scrap yard is full of 1.4 8v Fabias which are all scrapped due to engine related problems 

iirc they are known for head gasket failures which is probably why most end up in the scrap yard

If you want a 1.4 fabia then just buy one as opposed to trying to swap as it's really not worth the effort. They should be dirt cheap anyway with them being so old now 

  • Author
On 11. mars 2017 at 23:51, clarendon462 said:

One of the worst engines that's been built!? Hmmm not sure you really have much to back that up other than having a problem with yours. I know of many people who have them including myself and they just keep going with nothing more than a service every year. 

Mine is on 105000 miles, never been touched other than oil changes and it still has good compression across all cylinders, doesn't use any oil or coolant and runs extremely well

my local scrap yard is full of 1.4 8v Fabias which are all scrapped due to engine related problems 

iirc they are known for head gasket failures which is probably why most end up in the scrap yard

If you want a 1.4 fabia then just buy one as opposed to trying to swap as it's really not worth the effort. They should be dirt cheap anyway with them being so old now 

First the chain: timing chain are three gnger as far as the 1.4-liter fun. And it skips and has done so on countless engines in Norway.
Many cars with 1.2 liter engines are for sale, and many are ikek covering more than 110 000-140 000 km. It is ikek used engines obtainable, when most Blown also in pistons.
The camshaft has no utsikiftbare store, nor the crankshaft. Valves and controls are weak and holds barely 100 000 km before the oil leakage. and then burn valves.
The motor itself is not repairable under the top lid.
The local Skoda workshop also says that these engines are very bad.

Only errors that otherwise is not unusual is that head gasket can fail. me Net is a very simple matter to repair.

I also have a Fabia 1.4 engine that ran smoothly.
So this I have not taken out of the air!

 

  • Author

I might also mention that the chain tensioner bottom when I was putting on the cylinder head. The car was driven 130 000 km, and I had to switch chain. More bad than cambelt!
If I had not change the engine would crash before drove 150,000 km!

 

Edited by Torbo

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238,000 km / 149,000 miles on ours, (2005, 12-valve). Doesn't consume any oil; the only engine repairs so far - EGR valve and 1 ignition coil. We have only owned it for the last 5 years / 80,000km, so maybe it had other things in its earlier life, but nothing in the written history.

I do think the 6-valve engines fail more than the 12-valve, based only on number of threads/owners on here where 6-valve engines are found to have low compression compared with 12-valve engines, I think.

I guess the smaller size of the 6-valve head, fewer valves and lack of EGR may make for a harsher/hotter environment for the exhaust valves and seats.

 

Your best bet for a conversion is to buy a donor car and just keep moving parts across until it works. Or just use the donor car... 

 

  • Author
16 hours ago, Wino said:

238,000 km / 149,000 miles on ours, (2005, 12-valve). Doesn't consume any oil; the only engine repairs so far - EGR valve and 1 ignition coil. We have only owned it for the last 5 years / 80,000km, so maybe it had other things in its earlier life, but nothing in the written history.

I do think the 6-valve engines fail more than the 12-valve, based only on number of threads/owners on here where 6-valve engines are found to have low compression compared with 12-valve engines, I think.

I guess the smaller size of the 6-valve head, fewer valves and lack of EGR may make for a harsher/hotter environment for the exhaust valves and seats.

 

Your best bet for a conversion is to buy a donor car and just keep moving parts across until it works. Or just use the donor car... 

 

Thanks for info! I agree! "The best option for a conversion is to purchase a donor car and just keep moving parts over until it works. Or just use donor car ..." ----- ..... But in the two last year it is impossible to get a 6v -variant. All of them for sale has had broken engines - valves and piston. Yesterday I got a engine to work with. The cylinders vas ok, but all all mechanical parst was broken. Pistins, rods an valves. i will use the cylinders and by new pistons from Germany. Thats my last hope. 

 

 

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I meant a conversion 1.2 to 1.4 engine. Buy a whole 1.4 car, Keep moving bits - engine, engine wiring, ECU, Instrument cluster, into your 1.2 car until it starts working with the 1.4 engine. Or just use the 1.4 car and throw away the 1.2!

  • Author
On 13. mars 2017 at 08:00, Wino said:

238,000 km / 149,000 miles on ours, (2005, 12-valve). Doesn't consume any oil; the only engine repairs so far - EGR valve and 1 ignition coil. We have only owned it for the last 5 years / 80,000km, so maybe it had other things in its earlier life, but nothing in the written history.

I do think the 6-valve engines fail more than the 12-valve, based only on number of threads/owners on here where 6-valve engines are found to have low compression compared with 12-valve engines, I think.

I guess the smaller size of the 6-valve head, fewer valves and lack of EGR may make for a harsher/hotter environment for the exhaust valves and seats.

 

Your best bet for a conversion is to buy a donor car and just keep moving parts across until it works. Or just use the donor car... 

 

Thanks for info! I agree! "The best option for a conversion is to purchase a donor car and just keep moving parts over until it works. Or just use donor car ..." ----- ..... But in the two last year it is impossible to get a 6v -variant. All of them for sale has had broken engines - valves and piston. Yesterday I got a engine to work with. The cylinders vas ok, but all all mechanical parst was broken. Pistins, rods an valves. i will use the cylinders and by new pistons from Germany. Thats my last hope. 

 

more info: http://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=12540

same problems or less...

 

 

  • Author
On 13. mars 2017 at 08:00, Wino said:

238,000 km / 149,000 miles on ours, (2005, 12-valve). Doesn't consume any oil; the only engine repairs so far - EGR valve and 1 ignition coil. We have only owned it for the last 5 years / 80,000km, so maybe it had other things in its earlier life, but nothing in the written history.

I do think the 6-valve engines fail more than the 12-valve, based only on number of threads/owners on here where 6-valve engines are found to have low compression compared with 12-valve engines, I think.

I guess the smaller size of the 6-valve head, fewer valves and lack of EGR may make for a harsher/hotter environment for the exhaust valves and seats.

 

Your best bet for a conversion is to buy a donor car and just keep moving parts across until it works. Or just use the donor car... 

 

Thanks for info! I agree! "The best option for a conversion is to purchase a donor car and just keep moving parts over until it works. Or just use donor car ..." ----- ..... But in the two last year it is impossible to get a 6v -variant. All of them for sale has had broken engines - valves and piston. Yesterday I got a engine to work with. The cylinders vas ok, but all all mechanical parst was broken. Pistins, rods an valves. i will use the cylinders and by new pistons from Germany. Thats my last hope. 

 

more info: http://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=12540

same problems or less...

 

 

  • Author

Schecked the spark plugs yesterday. The ply on syl. 4 was no good. Bosch.... may be no good?

 o714qa.jpg 

 

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Cylinder 4?

How old is that plug?

  • Author

 

I also choked the crankcase ventilation with 3 mm holes in both inbound and outbound hose and put on a pressure relief valve on an additional outlet from the engine.

Now crankcase ventilation more stable and I have a suspicion that oil consumption can be reduced?
To avoid pressure in the crankcase with hard driving, I deposited a one way valve for stabilizing pressure vacuum inside the engine, since there is tió small room for air in the compact engine.  

May be I don't need to change engine now?

  • Author
15 minutes ago, Wino said:

Cylinder 4?

How old is that plug?

The plug is 6 month ...

Normally i change every year or after two years.

  • Author

To day I will fix the heater. It is very unstable! The air is mostly to warm.

 

I vas reading about inside her, ands get some good info. 

Dos anyone know the resistant of the regulator? Ohm?

 

I will try to put inn a standard potentiometer ..?

 

If it is possible? 

 

 

 

  • Author
1 hour ago, Torbo said:

The plug is 6 month ...

Normally i change every year or after two years.

Sorry it is syl nr. 3. I'm working mostly with 4 cylinder engines (Volvo) some time five syl. diesel (VW). 

My fingers ar faster than the head some time...

 

Bosch plugs suck, I've always used NGK Iridium, better quality control and they last 2-3 years.

  • Author

The regulator for the heater: 2qkuixu.jpg

 

And now?

Best to by a new one?

There is a potentiometer behind the regulator on dash also. A little mini one.. (not the car) Can this make trouble?

 

 

Edited by Torbo

  • Author
3 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

Bosch plugs suck, I've always used NGK Iridium, better quality control and they last 2-3 years.

 

Since the 60-s I had trouble with Bosch spark plugs! 

That time Champion was best, AC Was ok, but NGK came later. Newer trouble with them tree product name. 

 

Now I will do like you - use NGK..!

 

 

 

Edited by Torbo

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So I clean the pot with whitespirit. Hope the best...?

 

varmeapparat regulator IMG_2575 LLL xxx.jpg

  • Author

Is it possible that something is wrong with the hand operation part on the dashboard?

 

There is also at pot meter ... that control the other pot meter?

I will put things to gather to morrow, go make a manual control?

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