bcm damage

[FatblokeVRS]

Anyone any other thoughts on these or other LED's??

 

Anyone using them without issues?

[Quiksilver_TR]

Any update from LED headlight users?

 

I'm experiencing something which may be the BCM failing, but the only addition I have is LED headlight bulbs with error decoders fitted.

Thinking I might whip these out tonight and see if the issue is related.

[hwr1983]

Be careful at your next MOT - as retrofitted LED bulbs may induce an MOT Failure (whether they work or not) due to the new lighting regs.

 

Personally I wouldn't fit LEDs to a Halogen headlight, as they weren't designed for it - but each to their own

[Quiksilver_TR]

35 minutes ago, hwr1983 said:

Be careful at your next MOT - as retrofitted LED bulbs may induce an MOT Failure (whether they work or not) due to the new lighting regs.

 

Personally I wouldn't fit LEDs to a Halogen headlight, as they weren't designed for it - but each to their own

 

Yeah.

These lights are projectors so from an output perspective beam pattern is fine for HID and LED.....reflectors on the other hand are a massive no no for any upgrade other than halogen bulbs.

[langers2k]

32 minutes ago, Quiksilver_TR said:

 

Yeah.

These lights are projectors so from an output perspective beam pattern is fine for HID and LED.....reflectors on the other hand are a massive no no for any upgrade other than halogen bulbs.

 

The cut off will be fine, but the distribution of light under the cut off will change. In most cases the results in more foreground light but less distance light. This will make the lights appear brighter but actually reduce your distance vision.

 

What problems are you experiencing?

 

Both led drivers and hid ballasts can cause damage to the bcm if they are poorly designed or cheaply made. Even more so when they are "canbus friendly" or "error cancelling" :-)

[Breezy_Pete]

(Draft) MOT manual from 20th May says:

 

Existing halogen headlamp units shouldn’t be converted to be used with HID bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp

 

Doesn't mention Halogen to LED conversions, as far as I can see.  I thought I'd seen a draft where it did say LED too in this context, but this version doesn't seem to: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/699702/mot-inspection-manual-for-classes-3-4-5-and-7-from-20-may-2018-draft.pdf

(midway through section 4.1.4

[langers2k]

2 minutes ago, Wino said:

(Draft) MOT manual from 20th May says:

 

Existing halogen headlamp units shouldn’t be converted to be used with HID bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp

 

Doesn't mention Halogen to LED conversions, as far as I can see.  I thought I'd seen a draft where it did say LED too in this context, but this version doesn't seem to: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/699702/mot-inspection-manual-for-classes-3-4-5-and-7-from-20-may-2018-draft.pdf

(midway through section 4.1.4

 

Both LED and HID drop in kits should fail due to "Light source and lamp not compatible - Major" which is also on the same page

[Breezy_Pete]

Perhaps, but it would be (far) easier for testers if it was made explicit, by including LED in the paragraph I quoted. 

Maybe by the time the final version is published it will be clarified in this respect?

[Quiksilver_TR]

33 minutes ago, langers2k said:

 

What problems are you experiencing?

 

 

I had a rouge bulb out error, and whilst I was out of the car (engine running) to check the bulbs the revs rose to 1000/1100 from 750/800rpm and sat there.

It only stopped doing it when I switched the car off and back on again......which also reset the bulb out light.

 

 

There is no bulbs out and that hasn't come on again since, but this morning the revs rose and sat at 1100 again, but sorted itself out after a minute or so.

So I scanned the error codes and got 01598 which is Drive Battery Voltage Closed.

 

Done a quick search and fb posts, to find its one of many things.

 

It has a new 096 battery, alternator was tested not so long ago and was all good, wiring around the battery looks good.

Couple of things im going to check tonight, charge voltage and battery voltage just to eliminate that, wiring around the bulkhead as I had to move a couple of sections of loom to fit the upper strut brace and then swap the headlight bulbs back to halogen units.

 

BTW its defo not a DPF regen.

 

[Ju1ian1001]

5 hours ago, Wino said:

(Draft) MOT manual from 20th May says:

 

Existing halogen headlamp units shouldn’t be converted to be used with HID bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp

 

Doesn't mention Halogen to LED conversions, as far as I can see.  I thought I'd seen a draft where it did say LED too in this context, but this version doesn't seem to: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/699702/mot-inspection-manual-for-classes-3-4-5-and-7-from-20-may-2018-draft.pdf

(midway through section 4.1.4

 

5 hours ago, langers2k said:

 

Both LED and HID drop in kits should fail due to "Light source and lamp not compatible - Major" which is also on the same page

Depends on how Tester inturprits what is written in the manual, as Wino has noticed, no mention of LED's but plenty about HID's, so as far as i can see us Tester's will have judge LED conversions in other ways, for me if its got the correct pattern on my beam setter it will pass, unless there is flickering as the can cause distraction to other road users.

[FatblokeVRS]

So, are folks still finding that the BCM is ok when LED bulbs are fitted?

[therev]

update for u guys mine still running fine fingers crossed been in about a year now as the ones i use do not throw on the bulb error as these have a cooling fan built on to the back so it will b drawing a enough voltage i just needed to cut and modify the bulb holder because of the fan on the back hope this helps 

[FatblokeVRS]

2 hours ago, therev said:

update for u guys mine still running fine fingers crossed been in about a year now as the ones i use do not throw on the bulb error as these have a cooling fan built on to the back so it will b drawing a enough voltage i just needed to cut and modify the bulb holder because of the fan on the back hope this helps 

 

Thanks mate. I have a couple of 55w (each) LED's with the fans built in to try.

[Quiksilver_TR]

I’ve got an update on my issues (mentioned a few posts up) as I have now been trying a few things.

 

Been a bit long winded but id rather that than just throwing money at it and not really understand it.

 

After removing the LEDs (no change), Ive been making one change at a time, resetting the error code and the driving for a couple of days to monitor the revving and also reading the codes each journey.

 

change one: re-tightening negative terminal on battery - no change

 

change two: re-tightening positive terminal on battery - no change

 

change three: main earth strap re-tightening - no change

 

change four: positive on alerternator re-tightened - no change

 

change five: remove hardwiring for DAB pure highway as thinking back the issue only started soon after I wired this in - issue gone!

 

 

I hardwired the Pure Highway into the power rear window fuse using a nextbase hardwire kit (same used for my dash cam).

Unplugged I Trialled this for a week and haven’t had the issue or code back.

To test this i connected it all back up using the same fuses, and the issue came back.

Just unplugging the fuse isn’t good enough to fix it though, the error code needs clearing otherwise the revving still happens.

My thinking is that I was asking too much of that fuse point (is already a 30amp fuse) even though I hadn’t used the rear windows during that time, and the car didn’t like it.

 

Today I wired the DAB back in using a redundant slot in the fuse box, switched live for a trailer attachment. Ran the car for a bit and haven’t seen the code or revving back yet.

Time to test it for a few days and see what occurs.

 

I shall post back when I know more.

Edited 20 May, 2018 by Quiksilver_TR

[paddypaws]

45 minutes ago, Quiksilver_TR said:

My thinking is that I was asking too much of that fuse point (is already a 30amp fuse) even though I hadn’t used the rear windows during that time, and the car didn’t like it.

A 30A fuse means that circuit is capable of delivering 30amps, and it was not loaded as you mentioned. A DAB radio will draw 1 amp tops, so its not that you are drawing too much, you're drawing hardly any current at all in fact. Glad you got it sorted though.

[Quiksilver_TR]

On 20/05/2018 at 23:04, paddypaws said:

A 30A fuse means that circuit is capable of delivering 30amps, and it was not loaded as you mentioned. A DAB radio will draw 1 amp tops, so its not that you are drawing too much, you're drawing hardly any current at all in fact. Glad you got it sorted though.

 

Nah, I understand that.

 

My thinking is that it was doing something strange during a check due to the piggybacked fuse etc.

 

 

Deapite my initial positivity about it being fixed, it appears it isn’t.

 

 

So I have unplugged the DAB again to check some other routes out.