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Removal of stuck on wheels

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Hello,

 

I need to replace the brake pads on my 1999 Felicia, but have a problem with removing the front wheels.

I've tried brute force (eg karate kicks, banging with a large hammer, etc.) - I've also tried loosening the wheel bolts

and driving around doing figure eights. I've tried warming with a propane torch (very carefully) and lowering the car down

on to a brick offset from the centre line of the tyre.

But nothing seems to do the trick. Naturally I've tried WD40 around the hub where wheel sits also. I'm thinking maybe some form of gear puller?

Does anyone know of a foolproof way of removing the wheels that are so stuck on? I've wasted around 3 hours so far....

Any suggestions very welcome, thanks....

 

Put a couple of bolts back in, only a few turns, then get a block of wood. Place it on the inner wing, then use a bottle jack against the wheel rim (with another block of wood on it), this should encourage the wheel off.

45 minutes ago, octyal said:

Put a couple of bolts back in, only a few turns, then get a block of wood. Place it on the inner wing, then use a bottle jack against the wheel rim (with another block of wood on it), this should encourage the wheel off.

 

I wouldn't do this as the force can go into the inner wing too which will cause more damage. 

 

You will need the car on axle stands for safety. Leave one bolt in fitted lose. With large block of wood on the inside of the wheel that crosses both sides onto the tyres to protect the wheel you will need to really hit with a big hammer. Keep rotating the wheel after a couple of strikes and it will come but don't be timid.

 

When you refit them clean the hub up and apply copper grease to all the contact points and you won't have the same problem again. Just don't over do it and obviously ensure none goes on the brake discs.

Edited by CWARD

  • Author

Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't try the jack method as I don't have a bottle jack and there's not enough room for my scissor jack. Just tried driving around again for around 5km with loose wheel bolts, but still no luck. I did put copper grease on the contacts 6 months ago when I changed over to winter tyres, but obviously that hasn't helped now. I'll give the block of wood/hammer method another go, otherwise I'll need to go in and buy a large gear puller and try that. I'll report back later :)

If you have a helper or a strap to hold the wood place it will make life easier so you can swing both hands. If it doesn't work I suggest you go to your local tyre fitter who will do similar but with better access and no doubt bigger hammers. 

 

 

Edited by CWARD

What about using a long metal pipe ?

  • Author

OK - jacked up on axle stands, laid underneath the car with a block of 8x2 wood against the tyre and whacked away. 10 minutes per side and now both wheels are off :)

Now just replace the brake pads, clean away all rust, corrosion & dirt, recoat with copper grease and put it all back together....

Thanks for the hints & tips :)

That's your exercise for the day. Who needs to go to the gym when you have car maintenance to do.

 

Glad you got it all sorted.

One question for clarification. Do you have alloy rims or steel rims?

 

One conclusion. Use the biggest sledgehammer around and call a real viking. You didn't have a big enough one obviously. Don't know about the viking.

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I'm betting alloy.

If it is alloys, you shouldn't use copper grease on the contact points as it will actually speed up the chemical welding reaction. Use a graphite, ceramic or aluminium based grease.  

1 hour ago, HeavyMetalRich said:

If it is alloys, you shouldn't use copper grease on the contact points as it will actually speed up the chemical welding reaction. Use a graphite, ceramic or aluminium based grease.  

 

I've heard this before but have used copper grease for a couple of decades now without issue. Not sure it's because the wheels come off at least annually. I will get something else once the copper grease has run out as I know there is better products out there, is any of the ones you mentioned better or more universal use than the other?

23 hours ago, CWARD said:

 

I've heard this before but have used copper grease for a couple of decades now without issue. Not sure it's because the wheels come off at least annually. I will get something else once the copper grease has run out as I know there is better products out there, is any of the ones you mentioned better or more universal use than the other?

 

Both the graphite and ceramic greases can be used for most things. But even within those categories there is a large range of types of grease. 

 

Brake part manufacturing companies have widely started making/supplying their own tubes of grease and these are generally ceramic based. I've used Apec and Bosch brands, both very similar. Innotec do a very good ceramic one too, it's still visible even after a couple of years. These are just the ones I have used personally.

  • 5 weeks later...

Just a thought..........I know you have them off now, But did you try the " lighter and candle method?"  

 

jetbubble

Read again the original post. It's not that he couldn't remove the wheel bolts. It's the rim that was stuck to the wheel hub.

 

As for the video, you can try all day long heating the wheel nuts/bolts with a lighter(!) hoping the wax will melt into threads. The guy either cheated when he said he can't unscrew the nuts or he's a wimp.

 

This is the right way at minimum. Forget the lighter.

 

As an alternative, use the big red wrench.

 

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