The gaitor always end up like that - get the MX-5 Doctor one

 

Clean out and replace the turret oil while you're there - double benefit, as you'll get a better shifter action as a result  

10 minutes ago, Wardy said:

The gaitor always end up like that - get the MX-5 Doctor one

 

Clean out and replace the turret oil while you're there - double benefit, as you'll get a better shifter action as a result  

 

You'll need both gaitors looking at it - the big square one you see there plus the smaller round one below...

oddly the gearchange is better than my last five, and I renewed the gators and oil on that one...

Right, I have been investigating the rust on the five..... thinking, ok, I can remove this crappy paint, there is solid metal I can chemically treat to be rust free then get it protected....

 

 

been using the screwdriver to poke around, making sure that its solid.... then ... BOOM! we're buggered :(

 

Poked straight through, and the sill is full of water :( DAMN! it may have never been welded, but it will be now! needs cutting out, and new pieces welding in :(

 

 

on top of all this, the octy is back at the tame mechs as its now misfiring :( (and smoking black in the process :( )

under bonnet pic... for no reason.

 

Have you checked the drain hole on the other side is not blocked ?

 

I had a similar job done on mine 2 years ago, and when they chopped the rust bit + a bit to weld to clean metal, it was noticed that the drain hole was smaller that it should have been so it was cleaned out, other side checked and cleaned as well.

 

Gone off the Yeti, Love the B.R.G MX5 specially in the last few weeks where we have had 99% .

 

yeah, I have been driving this to work when it hasn't been raining   not checked the other side, but I have been looking at replacement sill panels, not too expensive, about £30 and built with "better" drain holes to get the water out...

Unfortunately you can't presume. I enlarged the drain holes on mine when I did all the Bilt Hamber protection. 

 

So if it's never had any protection or work done on the sills, presume it'll need it.

Also you can test all this with a watering can and the hood up.

 

Then  if the water isn't running through and out through the drain holes on each side, you'll definitely know where it's going!

Aha - rusted through from the inside as usual...   its usually the strange sloshing noise that gives away water in the sills...   ;-)

 

 

Thats why I thought it was ok, as no water noises! (and wet spots on the floor where it should drain out when it rains!) 

 

anyway, seeing as the octy has been sick , I took the five for a blast round the country roads this morning, and forgave it the hole, as it was awesome fun

When it comes to rust proofing kit, look up Buzzweld, fantastic products that do work. Very highly regarded in the Land Rover world (and we all know how well they rust), best bit is, he can also tint things like underseal in the correct body colour.

I'm sure my tame mech could sort it for very little money, but I am seriously thinking of buying the replacement panel that covers the back part of the sill and the whole wheel arch, and just cut ALL the crap around there too, they are about £80....

Edited 14 June, 20178 yr by sharkrider

Probably the best way to do it. Then you know for sure. 

 

And I'd highly recommend the Bilt Hamber range myself, for rust conversion and protection.

I have something called fertan that I was going to use... obviously I'm just going to leave it now until sept and MOT time...

Ha! It's started to rust and it'll only go one way though!

 

Don't delay 

it can go through! its going to be cut out! lol....

It's more about protecting the other bits - getting the inside of the sills treated, that sort of thing.

 

I know what you mean about this current section, but I'd treat it like a warning shot. If you've got one bit like that, what about the rest...  

wow, the air-con works.... its weak but it definatley works, blowing cool!

If it's nice enough to have the AC on, why is the hood not down?  

4 hours ago, Wardy said:

If it's nice enough to have the AC on, why is the hood not down?  

hood was down, and it was too hot, so cool air through the vents was a bonus  still can't get my drivers window down :( I never drive it with the hood up ever!

 

Edited 19 June, 20178 yr by sharkrider

Thats the rust on the drivers wing sorted....

 

 

and the rust on the passenger wing sorted...

 

Took mine to work today...   got part way there and an acrid smell started.  pulled over to check and found a very hot offside front wheel so i have a sticking / seized brake.  nursed it there and back but didnt have time to sort it tonight so thats it off the road until i can.  not happy!

Edited 17 July, 20178 yr by skomaz

taking mine to work the next two days... octavia is not working properly.... this may be my work transport for the foreseeable future if I can't get the octy working, regardless of weather :(