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Sharkriders mk1 Eunos Roadster take two!

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8 hours ago, ronime said:

For a 1.6 with 100K under its belt, that's a tad optimistic IMHO.

 

I rebuilt mine at 80K, 20-thou head skim, AFM calibration, 18 degrees timing, super-unleaded, de-cat, panel filter and stainless exhaust netted me approx 126bhp (11bhp increase over stock, new), extrapolated from a wheel reading taken with a wheel hub dyno. Richard at BLiNK Motorsport reckoned this was a good one.

 

Anyone, have fun with the Eunos and don't go mad spending money on it! :)

 

 

lol... I'm under orders not to spend too much, it can get mental with SOOO much available for these things!

 

And thanks for the info, I can go as far as 18 degrees if I just use super then ? simple mod , even if it just makes 10 bhp :)

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  • sharkrider
    sharkrider

    Driving home from work today , two kids (about 7 y/o) walking home from school, pointed and said "cool car" lol.... too young to know what an old MX5 is then, but maybe recognise the lotus badge?! lol

  • sharkrider
    sharkrider

    got the spanners out today, nice to have an old mechanical thing you can mess with with spanners! started by adjusting the throttle cable, there was some slack... nice instant response now  

  • Nice one Dave, just in time for some summer fun. then some winter tinkering.

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Good stuff Sharky - they look good in white, the inverse of mine :D

 

Yours will look even better.... with a respray! And looks like it's on std UK suspension to me. Ride height looks a bit 'SUV'..... ;)

  • Author
3 minutes ago, Wardy said:

Good stuff Sharky - they look good in white, the inverse of mine :D

 

Yours will look even better.... with a respray! And looks like it's on std UK suspension to me. Ride height looks a bit 'SUV'..... ;)

yeah, fairly sure its on standard UK suspension... springs high, shocks black. I can get loads of 2nd hand bilstien sets , but don't want to go down the "potentially already knackered" route.... when funds allow a proper bilstien B12 kit, (or probably some cheap coilovers! pmsl) 

  • Author

Driving home from work today , two kids (about 7 y/o) walking home from school, pointed and said "cool car" lol.... too young to know what an old MX5 is then, but maybe recognise the lotus badge?! lol...

2 hours ago, sharkrider said:

lol... I'm under orders not to spend too much, it can get mental with SOOO much available for these things!

 

And thanks for the info, I can go as far as 18 degrees if I just use super then ? simple mod , even if it just makes 10 bhp :)

 

I bought mine for £1,600 spent another £7,400 on it and sold it for £3,000. Probably not much economic sense in that, as my wife likes to remind me on a regular basis. Although she does seem to have gone quiet on that front since I bought her a new BMW. :)

 

18 degrees on 98 RON should be OK so long as your cylinder head is not badly coked, but that alone will not net you 10bhp. No power increase beyond 14 degrees but the extra mid range torque after that was worth it for me. Watch out for the timing marks slipping on the bottom pulley overlay. The pulley is made from two concentric parts.

 

Oil leak on mine was from the crank rear seal and then out of the weep hole in the bottom of the clutch bell housing.

Edited by ronime

  • Author

I will let my tame mech do the oily stuff, including timing ;) 

 

I am keeping standard, on classic insurance..... my last one I bought for £600, and sold for £900.... rust free ones like this now tend to go for £1200 up....  each year , we are loosing masses of mk1s to rust and breaking (especially if people have spent the money on them!) so an unwelded mk1 (or a "properly" repaired one) are getting more expensive each year ... going to see what this is worth in 5 years time, when I have put everything right, and found money for a re-spray! (fancying BRG) 

 

first "mod" I did was the headlamp flash, up/down on one pull of the lever (its so cool) a simple 30 amp diode here .....

 

DSCF0825_zpse1e43ac4.jpg

 

 

8 years ago when the pound/yen exchange rate was much more favourable AutoLink and the like were importing perfectly good cars from Japan and stripping them for spares. Yards full of rust free Eunos shells that you virtually couldn't give away.

  • Author

lol.... you could probably buy a decent 2.8 Capri for less than a grand then too..... it would take about 6 grand now!

Don't suppose your interested in a removable hardtop for it are you?

  • Author
18 hours ago, Dark_Hero said:

Don't suppose your interested in a removable hardtop for it are you?

No thanks Charlie ... an unnecessary expense ;)

  • Author

right with paintwork this bad, I may as well do something temporary to mess with it...

 

IMG_0445.jpg

 

sticker time! lol...

 

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unbelievably, just pulling the backing off the sticker took paint off! this is such a bodge job! :o

 

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  • Author

on the plus side, driving it this week has seen the dynamics improve... brakes are improving, more feel, and more stopping power..

 

and engine is improving, feels stronger and happier....

 

swear to God only 4,000 miles in 5 years or so really isn't good for a car!

 

although the belts have now started to squeak, will have to get under the bonnet and tighten them up!

 

something still isn't right at the front... I'll get it at MOT time.

Edited by sharkrider

Full service with fluids and I'd chuck some fresh disks and pads on the front, given the very small outlay for them. Brake fluid swap at the same time, and job's a good 'un B)

1 hour ago, sharkrider said:

right with paintwork this bad, I may as well do something temporary to mess with it...

 

IMG_0445.jpg

 

sticker time! lol...

 

IMG_0447.jpg

 

 

unbelievably, just pulling the backing off the sticker took paint off! this is such a bodge job! :o

 

IMG_0446.jpg

 

What's the original colour underneath???   looks almost yellow???   like an early California?

 

What's the paint code on the door jamb?

  • Author
21 minutes ago, skomaz said:

 

What's the original colour underneath???   looks almost yellow???   like an early California?

 

What's the paint code on the door jamb?

I have no idea whats underneath... something bad.... seems it was stripped, and painted this crappy mustard, then painted white on top.... the mustard must be some king of undercoat, but its all over the car, and not sealing the metal, getting water under the paint... the white has run in places, dripped in places, and cracked everywhere! (painted in an wet atmosphere) its going to need "properly" doing when the time is right... it will be the LAST thing on the list though, years down the line.... but it will be a proper job, I fancy BRG...

 

I think it was originally white, haven't checked the codes on the stickers, but it says "candy white" on the log book...

  • Author

can you see the paint bubbling everywhere ? :( damn... gonna need a lot of stickers! lol.....

Congratulations Dave :)

 

Now is definitely the right time to be buying one before they all disappear. 

 

It looks like a good little project.  So long as it's solid underneath that paintwork you can have some fun with it. 

 

If only I had the money :/

  • Author

never been welded matey, sure of that, so the basis is there :) Rot is the worst thing on these, as long as thats ok, everything else can be sorted :)

 

checked my old one's reg (the one you drove!) and its still insured and MOT'd and knocking around!

 

and I do honestly believe, this is the last time to find a cheap one that isn't rotten.... prices are steadily going up!

Edited by sharkrider

Wonder if the mustard stuff is primer filler...   The last time I used some of that on an old car is was a mustard yellow Colour and I seem to recall that a couple of years later the topcoat cracked a bit like your seems to be doing...

Edited by skomaz

Forgot to say I'm not sure about candy white...   The mk1 came in Chaste white (code pt) or crystal white (code UC) iirc...

  • Author

I will check the codes when I get back from work today , and have a look :)

  • Author

got the spanners out today, nice to have an old mechanical thing you can mess with with spanners! started by adjusting the throttle cable, there was some slack... nice instant response now :)

 

IMG_0454.jpg

 

it was squeaking on startup, so I tightened all the aux belts too :) fixed the squeak :)

 

IMG_0456.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

well my bloody drivers side electric window has stopped working.... still up properly, so I know I haven't broken the cables, its either the switch , or power to the motor.... will have to start investigating ...

Get the door card off and get cracking :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

well, after cursory inspection of the electric window, I decided its the switch that had broken... so bought a new one....

 

installing it, I found the bloody gear lever gaters are buggered  *sigh....

 

IMG_0662.jpg

 

AND it didn't help the window... I have heard the motor clicking, so looks like the switch was a wasted £15, and I need to get ANOTHER window mech :(  just can't be arsed at the moment....

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