ABS Warning light

[TMB]

Pagid is a great brand.

[Breezy_Pete]

58 minutes ago, garibaldy said:

I've got a multi-meter but i'm no sparky so how do i check the wiring?

Simplest way is probably to link the two pins of the two-way connector at the wheel (e.g. with a paperclip if it'll fit in the sockets), then unplug the big connector from the ABS module in the engine bay (may be easier than it sounds, I haven't done it myself), and measure resistance between pins 19 and 31 there, it should be near zero.

[garibaldy]

27 minutes ago, TMB said:

Pagid is a great brand.

 

Very happy to use Pagid  . Wouldn't touch Eicher with a bargepole !!!

[KenONeill]

@garibaldy - In this case Pagid are probably a VAG OEM supplier too!

[garibaldy]

I've ordered the Pagid sensor for collection tomorrow from ECP.

[rum4mo]

Maybe not too important here, as the price differential is huge so buying the Pagid one makes sense, but, lots of firm are VW OEM suppliers, I'd doubt if Pagid are VW OEM suppliers of these parts, so in this case "VW OEM" supplier is not applicable.

 

I think that something strange/naughty is going on in the supply of some parts being rebranded to give them credibility, and here that means using the Pagid brand name to cover some after market versions of what would have be Bosch supplied parts!  I bought a pair of new front springs for the late 2009 Ibiza from ECP and they come (re)branded as Sachs, again I'd guess to give them some credibility as I can't find any mention of road springs in the Sachs on line catalogue - this could just be down to  ECP being creative like they are with the "Lucas" name, which, I think they bought to rent out to other brands needing to acquire some credibility.

 

By the way, Sachs, which is a ZF company are VW OEM suppliers as well. Also, if you don't know, ECP are, or at least were, the sole importer into UK of lots of these brands - which was why I had to force them, via ATE to supply me with Power Discs some years ago as ECP and even their central warehouse told me that ATE no longer supplied these parts - which was not true, closer to the truth was that ECP was now pushing another brand of brake parts, don't get me wrong, ECP are handy and I still use them, but their marketing ethos is not too good - which is probably where Eicher brand comes in!

[TMB]

1 hour ago, rum4mo said:

 I bought a pair of new front springs for the late 2009 Ibiza from ECP and they come (re)branded as Sachs, again I'd guess to give them some credibility as I can't find any mention of road springs in the Sachs on line catalogue -

 

https://www.zf.com/brands/en_de/sachs/products_sachs/products_pc_sachs/complementary_products/complementary_products.html

[garibaldy]

My local ECP have said the new ABS Sensor will probably arrive tomorrow so I decided to remove the current one, give the area a clean, and plug it back to see if that cured the problem (it didn't in case you are looking for a happy ending, but at least the sensor is now free).

 

I've circled in red the section of cable that wasn't located in the white connector - no idea why it wasn't plugged in but it requires some effort to remove the cable from that white clip! A 5mm allen key removed the ABS sensor, after giving it a spray with some penetrating oil. I also had to clean out the 5mm hex to get the key engaged in the hole properly, but once the retaining bolt was removed it just need a bit of pressure at the base of the sensor to free it from the hub - actually it pinged out under the middle of the car which wouldnt have done it a lot of good!

 

I sprayed brake cleaner and used some cotton buds to clean out excess dirt/dust and then reassembled. As I said it hasn't cured the problem but it might have, and now I know it should be easy to fit the new ABS sensor. Fingers crossed that fixes the problem.

 

a few pics.....

 

 

 

 

Edited 26 May, 2017 by garibaldy

[garibaldy]

New ABS sensor fitted but the problem is still there . Initially I was pleased as the warning light cleared, and stayed off during a short drive. However, when I started the car again just now the ABS light came back on, and diags show the same error.

 

Break in the wire somewhere?

Edited 27 May, 2017 by garibaldy

[garibaldy]

The battery is measuring 12.87 volts so can rule that out as cuasing a problem.

 

How easy is it to replace the rear right sensor cable and whereabouts does it connect? Anbody know what the part number is approximate cost?

Edited 27 May, 2017 by garibaldy

[garibaldy]

Managed to pull back the rubber boot on the end of the ABS cable where it meets the connector. There is no obvious damage to the cable.

 

[sepulchrave]

You need to test it end to end to rule out cable damage along the entire length.

[garibaldy]

Just had a quick look at the ABS Module and blooming 'eck, there isn't a lot of room in there! Has anybody released their ABS connector, if so any tips on how to do it? Access space is limited.

 

Is there not any way to test the two wires at the sensor connector?

[rum4mo]

On ‎26‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 10:50, TMB said:

 

https://www.zf.com/brands/en_de/sachs/products_sachs/products_pc_sachs/complementary_products/complementary_products.html

 

Complementary products, ah, well that clears that up, thanks!

[rum4mo]

Well maybe not the smartest way to check things, but when I had problems with my old Cav GSI 4x4, I just disconnected the plug from the (separate in that car) ABS controller, and checked each of the four sensor channels back into the controller, in my case that worked as one channel had a completely different impedance to the other three.

 

If you have a reasonable DMM with a high impedance input, you could check across that sensor, and check the others as well by unplugging them from the wheel sensors, now if you conveniently find that that one is the only different one, then that is a start, you would still need to check the wiring to make sure which problem existed, wiring or controller.  If it makes any sense, I'd think that each sensor connector will have signal "low" wire and each of these four sensors signal "low" will be commoned up at the ABS controller, if that is true, then you would need to make up a long "second" DMM lead to allow you to check sensor "1" signal low is still commoned to sensor "2" signal low etc. A very messy way to do things, but if you can't get that ABS controller plug out then you will need to do things a messy way?

[sepulchrave]

You can test the sensor by measuring the mV AC generated by spinning the wheel, an ABS sensor is like a guitar pickup which generates AC voltage as the reluctance changes.

[petehall347]

just skimmed through this and i chased around same as you new sensor and all .. i fixed it by simply slightly bending the pins in the wheel sensor connector . it was a bad connection in the plug .. 

[garibaldy]

I tried @petehall347's suggestion but it hasn't fixed the issue. Thanks for the help though!

Edited 29 May, 2017 by garibaldy

[garibaldy]

Tomorrow i'm planning to check the wiring as initially suggested by @Wino and backed up by @sepulchrave.  I have the BOSCH 8 ABS module so will be checking pins 19 and 31 at the connector, assuming i can get a paper clip in the wheel-end connector, and my fat fingers inbetween the bulkhead!!!!

[Breezy_Pete]

Thinking about it, it may be easier to link at the module connector, and multimeter at the wheel. 

Or get some thin two-core/bell-wire and plug the ends in at the module connector, run it to the wheel, then you could test each wire individually; effectively extending your meter probes.

[petehall347]

if measured at module end you can leave sensor plugged in and expect similar ohms as sensor .it will be a bit higher as length of cables . you will see if open circuit or not though . 

[garibaldy]

9 minutes ago, Wino said:

Thinking about it, it may be easier to link at the module connector, and multimeter at the wheel. 

Or get some thin two-core/bell-wire and plug the ends in at the module connector, run it to the wheel, then you could test each wire individually; effectively extending your meter probes.

I was planning on using some fuse wire to connect the pins but hadn't considered connecting pins at the ABS module connector end. The less time spent near the ABS module the better !!!!! really tight down there. Haven't disconnected it yet but assume i connect pin 19 and 31.

 

[Breezy_Pete]

Yep.

[garibaldy]

25 minutes ago, Wino said:

Yep.

Do you have a link to a diagram of the pin assignments for the BOSCH 8 module connector?

[garibaldy]

Evening all,

 

Had time today to remove the ABS module connector today but struggled . There is an orange tab which, I think, needs to be pushed upwards to release the locking arm. I've managed to force the orange tab upwards one click, but it wouldn't move any further. Has anybody removed this and the connector? If so can you describe how it is done to avoid me breaking it?

 

I need to test continuity on the wiring but FYI I've eliminated fuses #4 and #7 - the 40A stip is new, and I've tested the 25A fuse in one of the electric window fuse positions. The OSR ABS sensor has also been replaced with no change.

 

After the frustration of trying to remove the ABS module connector I also disconnected the battery and, after waiting 15mins this (long shot) didn't work either!

Edited 3 June, 2017 by garibaldy