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312mm brakes - Pictorial

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So you can't use the sliding pins which come off the standard brakes?

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  • Makes sense

  • I'll be sure to post pics of those same Zimmermans fitted to mine later this week, just to tempt you even further

  • You will be fine then. It's a cautionary warning that's all, doesn't happen all the time but can. If it had gone wrong you would know about it.

  • Author

The standard brakes don't have sliding pins. They are completely different calipers hence needing to change them.

Thanks

  • Author

Two per caliper.

Yes ofcourse I really appreciate your help. Thanks Dan

  • 11 months later...

Okay so I've got a mk2 fabai want to upgrade the brakes to bigger ones anyone know what fits cos few people say the 312mm setup doesn't work on mk2 unlike mk1

  • Author

On the MK2 Fabia vRS it will work, you just have to get the whole lot like on the MK1.

  • 1 month later...

I have the 312mm front and 256 on rear. What are other causes of brake judder other than a warped disc?

Thanks

  • Author

Poorly seated disc.

 

Need to check run out to determing whats at fault.

  • 3 months later...

Okay so I've got a mk2 fabai want to upgrade the brakes to bigger ones anyone know what fits cos few people say the 312mm setup doesn't work on mk2 unlike mk1

It does work but depends on the model of the car and it's spec my 2011 Tdi has 256mm front so only option for me would be mk2 vrs hubs and fit the 312mm, if you car has 288mm front discs it a lot easier bolt together in fact

Best options I found for setup was Audi TT mk1 or octavia vrs mk1

  • 1 month later...

Silly question but what Octavia vrs caliprs fit mk1 fabia vrs  

mk1 or mk2 Octavia vrs calipers as going to buy some tomorrow of mk1

Mk1

Mk1

Cheers mate big help

  • 3 weeks later...

What tool do people use to clamp the Fabia brake hoses

A brake pipe clamp I made at college many years ago. Brilliant device used on every pad and disk change on many cars. Must be an official device we just copied. [emoji1]

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  • Author

Do not clamp the hoses. They are internally braided and if you clamp them it deforms the pipe and damages it internally.

Hi Ross. I must have been doing it wrong all these years. Is the attached clamp still an issue, on brake pipes ?

I just effectively squeeze the pipe somewhere between the caliper union and the connection where it sits on the strut to prevent brake fluid going back into the reservoir and instead out of the bleed nipple when the caliper is pushed in with the wind back tool.

f52b084dd90edbfe19f9a8770c9e97c1.jpg58abf762d97e3c6e56e35a6ec03a5ece.jpg

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Edited by gav_is_con

Hi Ross. I must have been doing it wrong all these years. Is the attached clamp still an issue, on brake pipes ?

I just effectively squeeze the pipe somewhere between the caliper union and the connection where it sits on the strut to prevent brake fluid going back into the reservoir and instead out of the bleed nipple when the caliper is pushed in with the wind back tool.

f52b084dd90edbfe19f9a8770c9e97c1.jpg58abf762d97e3c6e56e35a6ec03a5ece.jpg

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Yeah, something like that would damage reinforcement

My limited mechanical knowledge has just been shattered. 20 years of brake changes. [emoji23]

What's the correct way to achieve what I want ?

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Does anyone know how to clamp the pipes without damaging them and what's the correct way to bleed the brakes afterwards it's a 2011 1.6tdi fabia, I normally use a clamp similar to the one above and when calipers or pads changed I'd use the mate pedal pumper to bleed

Usually I work on much older cars and Landrover

  • Author

My limited mechanical knowledge has just been shattered. 20 years of brake changes. [emoji23]

What's the correct way to achieve what I want ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Not all brake hoses are constructed the same, some will be OK this way, just not ours.

 

The correct way is to plug the end when removing a component to stop fluid loss.

 

However when i'm doing a brake change such as this I remove the reservoir cap and place a piece of rag/cloth over the opening and refit cap (wedge it on). Install the caliper to the hub and at the last step disconnect the fluid line from the old caliper and swap over to the new caliper, minimal fluid loss.

 

And then to be honest if just fitting 312mm brake calipers I'll top up the reservoir and just let the new caliper gravity bleed.

This is where there maybe some confusion and misunderstanding. In my own personal experience I only do pad and disk changes. Never removed a caliper or brake pipe. So when winding the caliper back in, is it accepted to let the excess fluid return to the reservoir or fine to clamp the pipe on my cars with rubber hoses?

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  • Author

You would never clamp a hose when winding a piston back. That will cause serious damage to brake components.

Last chance to redeem myself Ross. [emoji1]

I do open the bleed nipple and let any excess fluid into an easi bleed container. Rather than the fluid going back to the reservoir it's expelled out into the easi-bleed.

I have read a few posts and supporting information that pushing fluid back into the reservoir can also cause damage to seals etc.

I do emphasise this is only for pad and disk changes.

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Edited by gav_is_con

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