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My turbo actuator is dead- its got a rust-hole in it, and it makes strange noises when I apply pressure to it. A brand new one is sitting on my desk, and I wonder if anyone has replaced it before without taking the turbo from the car? What to watch out for.
Hi guys, my 2005 Octavia TFSI VRS is noisy on idle at the moment. The rev gauge stays exactly as it should but under the bonnet seems much noisier than it used to be, I can hear it from inside the car. I also have a yellow light on the dash (looks like a lightbulb). Any ideas?
She is driving fine but is well due a service which is going to be done very soon.
I have a Fabia 1.4 TDI (BNM engine) and I was wondering if there was any way of measuring the temperature of the Turbo charger?
I know I could fit an EGT sensor but this would require modification to the exhaust so would it be possible to fit something like a K-Type thermocouple to the housing and get a temperature that way? And if so what would be a safe / expected temperature?
I'd just like the point out I know its a totally pointless task on this engine but I'm just curious if it could be done.
My 2006 fabia vrs may be on the way out which it saddens me to say.
For the last 9 months have had the amber engine warning light on and this is code P2100 which is throttle actuator (I bought an OBII device). No issue and it went through an MOT fine. I did notice the main pipe off the EGR valve to the intercooler pops slightly off and I cannot get it to stay on, plus there is a lot of oil in it which I clean out regularly.
Anyway, this aside it ran totally fine.
This week I had another fault where my traction control light comes on intermittently and now seems to stay on. I reset it but it is code P2102.
Put the car into my local mechanic and he has it run through the diagnostic and it came up with a few faults, one of which was low manifold back pressure (or similar). Since it went on the diagnostic it does seem to have a worse throttle response, randomly being ok or either not picking up when I press the throttle. Was fine before it went on the proper diagnostic and reset the codes that way.
Apparently the other mechanic reckons it may be either the turbo on the way out an/or the ecu burning out and developing faults.
I have an MOT until Jan and was aiming to keep the car for as long as possible, as it is quick, economical and i really like it.
Any ideas on what i should do next? Is a new ECU a reasonable option or is this a bit of a nightmare?
Car has 2013,000 miles but apart from the above runs sweet. hate to get rid of it but mechanical says part x it before the MOT runs out as it will fail.