Hi All,

After some advice, I've been searching around the forums and read the guide and just need a step guide as what to do in readiness for a Jabba Remap on a Tavia vRS?

I'm thinking Exhaust, Induction - I've read some get adjustable boost fitted, is this part of the remap or do I need to get one fitted before hand.

Any advice on what I need to achieve the 230bhp goal would be great, and in what order.

Cheers

What's made you set your heart on Jabba?

I've just been reading up it seems very popular, nothing more.

To get 230bhp you may need a front mount intercooler as the higher boost pressures required to attain the power will mean that the air is significantly hotter than when running stock boost levels and may exceed the cooling capacity of the standard side mounted intercooler.

It is possible to get high power without changing the intercooler but you will likely suffer from heat soak which will cause the ECU to back off the timing as the inlet temperatures increase, hence limiting the power output.

A free flowing filter / cold air induction kit is good along with a turbo back exhaust (i.e. down pipe, sports catalyst and back boxes)

Other recommended items are an uprated DV, as the standard one is prone to failing under stock pressure levels (never mind under increased boost), and possibly a 4bar fuel pressure regulator (higher power requires more fuel delivery and the stock 3bar one may not be up to the job)

It may be worth thinking about a Forge / Samco turbo inlet pipe as well.

Once you have the power it is a good idea to at least uprate the front brake pads to a fast road type (for example Ferrodo DS2500s) and maybe think about the clutch and suspension.

Hope this helps

A good quality air filter such as K&N or Green plus an uprated DV like the Forge 007 or Eliminator are enough to set you up for a remap. I believe the boost controller from Jabba is a purely 'after map' thing. It just gives you a bit more control like a Revo SPS3. Other members correct me if I'm wrong.

Jabba are very popular on Briskoda but it might also be worth your while checking up on www.uk-mkivs.net and www.seatcupra.net for more detailed info on other tuners. Revo, Custom Code and APR spring to mind.

When you mention 'the guide' I take it you mean the one that says 'In terms of performance/cost it

Do nothing bar change the Dump valve for a better recirc one 230bhp is easily achivable just with the remap...

Joel

Prior to your remap, as far as my knowledge extends, the first thing to do is drop the standard exhaust and cat and replace with a hi-flow item (e.g. milltek complete system). This will give you significant gain straight away because your not restricting your turbo's effort with a high cell density cat (full system won't be cheap though).

Then maybe look at a turbo intake pipe (ABD is easier to fit than Samco version), Air filter - not noted for great improvement in power. Replacement dump valve change; won't give you extra power, but will more robust than standard item (usually changed by tuner at time of remap anyhow if you pay the extra).

Finally, as for intercooler - start with the so-called pikey mod of venting the off-side wheel arch liner and you should be fine without the expense of a replacement (with perhaps the exception of the hottest summer days when the car might seem rather weezey compared to usual).

ok, so far my list of mods goes like this.

Jabba Sport Induction Kit

Bailey DV30 recirc valve

NewSouth powergasket

Forge TIP (coming soon)

Pikey drivers inner arch venting to OE SMIC

Thats in intake / induction side sorted.

in the next 12 months there will be a turbo back BlueFlame system inc 100cel cat going on and that will be the breathing system sorted as far as i'm concerned.

after this lot a Jabba remap and boost controller will be sorted.

on a vRS with these mods on numerous rolling roads i've seen 240-245bhp consistently (Monkey Boys).

Jabba products simply cause i've been more than happy with the service, quality of products and prices so far.

You can spend your money on such items like the exhaust, FMIC, TIP, induction kit... but for the XXXXX amount that will cost on top of your remap i feel you would be wasting it some what. esp if its a jabba remap all the above when added after the remap will become effective even with out tweeking the remap...

i strongly advise to get the remap and DV then think seriously about spending any more money... ive leant the expensive way... BUT feel i still would have made the mods i have due to asthetcs and noise achived....

Most of the for mentioned mods will increase torque and rate/smoothness of delivery of that power oppose to actual BHP...

Joel

For bang for buck the remap is the best however you'll always want more so...you need to think were you want to go with it all.

If I were to do everything again I would have:

dv

downpipe/cat

green filter replacement

FMIC

remap

If you're going to do anything else apart from map...do them first and have map last.

Also don't forget to budget for having the brakes sorted. Some decent pads and dot4.1 fluid will be fine.

You can spend your money on such items like the exhaust' date=' FMIC, TIP, induction kit... but for the XXXXX amount that will cost on top of your remap i feel you would be wasting it some what. esp if its a jabba remap all the above when added after the remap will become effective even with out tweeking the remap...

Joel[/quote']

sorry but i have to disagree... if you have a stock map or even a custom map on an otherwise standard car the intake flow and exhaust flow will be mapped for the standard components surely !?

if thats not the case then the remap would have to be self learning as you added parts post remap,and i doubt that is the case.

As SkodiRS says it all depends what you want to achieve and how much you want to spend. i've modified my car in the order i have because i believe that to be the most sensible way of doing it, and it doesnt cost me a fortune all in one go as i can spread the cost. it also gives me an idea of how each component is improving the car.

in my experence and knowlege a remap is basically reprogramming/tuning the software of the ECU to turn up the boost on the turbo by increasing and balencing the fuel air mixture to the right proportions and looking at when your turbo fatiges and finding the max boost your turbo will produce... and fmic will not make your turbo boost more just sustaine it for longer in my experence 500-1000 rpm...the exhuats inc downpipe moves the gases alot quicker increasing the torque of the engine and power delivery inc spool up time..but rember you still not increasing the boost pressure....the TIP and induction kit can deliver the turbo system cooler air if the right one is used but will not dleiver any more air then standard filter system would as the turbo just does not need any more it just needs cooler... in short its the amount of boost your turbo can produce that determins the total over all bhp... hence why i recomend do nothing but the remap and DV... you then do the other mods to sustaine and increse the smoothness of the power...

all im trying to do here is give cost effective advice to the new member and not scare him off with high mod bills to see the performance increse he desiers...as i dont think he needs to spend loads of money to achive what he is asking...

each turbo that rolls off the production line is as individual as you or i thats why lots of the genric chips work but are not ideal some one like jabba will find the best your turbo can do with in safe limits... things like age, to what batch of bearing was used can make you turbo boost more or less... this is why you see some people remap to 210 some at 230 and other over 240.... this is with out taking into account any engine fluctuations again as individual as you or i...

remember ive not said do not do any mods all ive said is wait do the remap first... then if still feel like you must mod it do so...Nigel i understand what your saying i did that way and regret it now... i feel some of the chat on here can be very misleading... my car got rempped with mods biggest being the exhaust in weeks of two other cars with no mods and they achived the same BHP as i...even when i had my fmic and tip fitted phoned jabba and asked for a tweek they said dont bother any changes that would have happened would be instant...

Joel

Without a FMIC boost at high revs will drop off due to inlet temps/high ambient temps.

With a FMIC you can hold boost longer; this is the case were you to add an FMIC to an already mapped car.

You can have your mapped tweeked to take advantage of the improved cooling and thus increase the boost....obviously bearing in mind that you aren't already running max boost, which I think is 1.4bar.

But it's not all about power.....I think the simple rule of thumb is power for top speed and torque for acceleration...so while boost will produce more power it doesn't go hand in hand that your car will be more driveable. I would say a car with more torque is more driveable in day to day conditions.

Hence why I would recommend the downpipe and cat as well

To increase power you increase boost...but heat will drop boost. So you need to get more colder air in....hence the idea of induction kits/ CAI etc.

Without a FMIC boost at high revs will drop off due to inlet temps/high ambient temps.

With a FMIC you can hold boost longer; this is the case were you to add an FMIC to an already mapped car.

You can have your mapped tweeked to take advantage of the improved cooling and thus increase the boost....obviously bearing in mind that you aren't already running max boost' date=' which I think is 1.4bar.

But it's not all about power.....I think the simple rule of thumb is power for top speed and torque for acceleration...so while boost will produce more power it doesn't go hand in hand that your car will be more driveable. I would say a car with more torque is more driveable in day to day conditions.

Hence why I would recommend the downpipe and cat as well

To increase power you increase boost...but heat will drop boost. So you need to get more colder air in....hence the idea of induction kits/ CAI etc.[/quote']

Sounds like we are singing of the same hyme sheet in terms of what does what and why you do it... what i think is still open to debate is the order of what should happen... i belive remap first mod later is the best way as all the above mods after tweeking may give you .2 bar extra or whatever but in real life terms your talking 0.xx seconds diffrence... so in all is it realy worth it?? fair dues if you think it is...i thought it was and still like the mods ive done but they are certainly not neccasery.... to make the vrs into a formidable beast and i surpose thats what im trying to get across to this new member...as the figures he is asking for are achiveable with out the extra mods now if he had asked for 250, 270, 300 bhp id be peddling a diffrent story...

Joel

I went for a re-map (which is great and I'd recommend APR ) and, other than venting the intercooler, I'm not going to do anything else.

-I can understand why people would take it further, but I see it as diminishing returns, spending more makes less and less difference. Insurance sky-rockets and performance will only improve slightly. If you want much more, starting off with a higher-performance car makes more financial sense.

I went for a re-map (which is great and I'd recommend APR ) and' date=' other than venting the intercooler, I'm not going to do anything else.

-I can understand why people would take it further, but I see it as diminishing returns, spending more makes less and less difference. Insurance sky-rockets and performance will only improve slightly. If you want much more, starting off with a higher-performance car makes more financial sense.[/quote']

thank you some who agrees with me sadly Bodge i found out the expensive way... just for the record what was your quoted BHP after your remap?

Joel

I had a stage two remap done to my 02 plate, this should bring it up to 230-235bhp, alongside this i had a cold air induction feed put in. This caused the car to pull back every few seconds when on the open road with full throttle.

You would definately need to get the exhaust and cat done to reach that power without problems,Unless im wrong and there is any other reason why i was getting the pulling back problem. i have since had the stage one remap (210bhp) and the car is fine and im saving for the full exhaust system. You difinately wouldn't need the front mounted intercooler unless you were putting in a bigger turbo, or boosting above 240bhp

Perhaps http://www.briskoda.net/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewarticle&id=15&pagenum=2 may help - It's the distilled wisdom of a number of people who have explored the limits of modifying the Octavia

thank you some who agrees with me sadly Bodge i found out the expensive way... just for the record what was your quoted BHP after your remap?

Joel

I didn't have it rolling-roaded although on reflection I wish I had just to satisfy my curiosity. I've also a K&N panel filter, if that makes any difference.

They said it would probably be around 210bhp and 240lbft, from memory

I've no reason to dispute that. Throttle response and turbo spool-up is great (It's almost like driving a 3 litre car ). It pulls hard from low rpm right through, suggesting a flat torque curve, and the speed keeps on coming. First gear is almost redundant. When it's even only slightly damp the wheels spin in 2nd at low and at high rpm.

Although it's a good, predictable chassis, my opinion is that the suspension (and diff?) would need improving to make good use of more power.

From the sig you'll see what I've had done to mine. Prior to the latest mods (downpipe, cat, exhaust and tweak to the mapping) it was putting out 216 bhp/ 225lbf.

The limiting factor on mine is now the SMIC - on the last RR session intake temps were up to 61C :eek: :eek:

Jim at Star Performance is trying to steer me in the direction of a FMIC and a better exhaust manifold, as he is interested to how how far a standard turbo can be taken :D

Sorry to drag this post up - but thanks for the gems of advice! - I ended up going for another Evo (a 4) but this will be up for sell imminently, and the Tavvy RS is still my choice replacement.

Seems as tho there are differing views, tbh I am used to do 'Stage 1' mods (Exhaust, Decat, Induction, DV and Boost Controller) - so this seems to be the same here - I don't plan on spending all my cash at once, it will be gradual - but would like to have noticeable results as and when I mod it

Another question - I read that some of the exhausts are quiet? I'm not a ear popping loudness exhaust person myself - but like a car to sound nice, any recommendations on this?

Cheers

Sorry to drag this post up - but thanks for the gems of advice! - I ended up going for another Evo (a 4) but this will be up for sell imminently, and the Tavvy RS is still my choice replacement.

Seems as tho there are differing views, tbh I am used to do 'Stage 1' mods (Exhaust, Decat, Induction, DV and Boost Controller) - so this seems to be the same here - I don't plan on spending all my cash at once, it will be gradual - but would like to have noticeable results as and when I mod it

Another question - I read that some of the exhausts are quiet? I'm not a ear popping loudness exhaust person myself - but like a car to sound nice, any recommendations on this?

Cheers

Straight remap at Jabba should give 225 bhp (it did on my 4x4, same engine)

Blue flame do the cheapest Zorsts with 100 cell sports cat, I would avoid full de cat, emision legislation is creeping up on all of us with more & more road side checks. If you go for a custom Exhaust with blue flame they will build it to your requirements/noise level

With the blue flame exhaust, Jabba map, Bailey DV & large Front mounted Intercooler I got 250 bhp witha really wide power band obviously the car was mapped remapped after I fitted the zorst etc. Boost controller is fun to play with but not essential, only + is it will stop the car overboosting if it has an electrical hick up in its brain

Induction kit I didnt bother with until I fitted the bigger Turbo :)

Link to Blue Flame here

Performance Exhaust Systems - Blueflame

My exhaust a couple of years ago was

Cheers mate - so thats 225 with no mods just a jabba remap? (if so that is an impressive hike!) Out of interest what turbo does the vrs use? Im used the Mitsubishi TD05 or the Garret T25 on my Rover Coupe Turbo track car.

Blueflame it is then - think I saw these on Camskill - around 600ish with sportcat?

Cheers mate - so thats 225 with no mods just a jabba remap? (if so that is an impressive hike!) Out of interest what turbo does the vrs use? Im used the Mitsubishi TD05 or the Garret T25 on my Rover Coupe Turbo track car.

Blueflame it is then - think I saw these on Camskill - around 600ish with sportcat?

Ring Blueflame direct & haggle a bit,

Re Turbo I believe its the KO3S