Having spent an excellent weekend mountain biking in the Lake District, I jumped into my vRS and noticed the engine was a tad 'lumpy'. It was raining so I drove the car about 2 miles, prior to concluding that a coil pack had gone. My mechanic brother, who was with me in his own car, warned of cat damage if I drove it too far. So I limped back to Keswick and phoned the AA.

A patrolman diagnosed remotely that it was coil pack 3, didn't have a spare, and being a Sunday, I was stranded 150 miles from home.

He didn't have the correct vehicle to tow me home, but the appropraite vehicle arrived 30 mins later. Unfortunately, he was close to the end of his shift, so a truck was sent down from Glasgow to meet us. So it was off one truck, on to the other.

Being later a night, It took me home and organised another truck to take me to my local dealer the next day. Third truck lucky.

The AA patrolman told me to disconnect the electrical connection to the injector of the appropriate cylinder. This avoids unburned fuel getting to the cat and doing the damage.

Should you have a spare, and a coil pack goes, just disconnect each cylinders injector connection in turn. If the engine 'dies' further, then it's not that pack that's gone.

The dealer - West End Garage - changed the coil pack in 5 minutes. I ordered a spare and was on my way.

I can't remember which code letter was what, but the mechanic told me the code letter on my coil packs was not the code that was being recalled - so it is one at a time for me - or buy them myself.

The thing is, confidence in the car goes out the window. It's bad enough when they go close to home - but being any distance away is a real pain.

I won't be happy till I've replaced them all.

Not nice but no harm done in the end.

When I bought the Octavia in March that's exactly the scenario I wanted to avoid, so I decided to fork out (rather than wait until failure a la Skoda) and eventually tracked some new ones down and got them fitted. I think the stocks are ok at dealers now but I found some at euroCarParts when supplies were zero at dealers.

Rob

If it wasn't a code which is being recalled, it was probably a J. Spend

Guys,

A friend of a friend has a TT which he bought in England 6 months ago from an Audi dealership, it was a 2nd hand 1 year old model. Anyway he has moved to Ireland and a coil pack went last week which a fella replaced for him (a non Audi dealer). I know some of you have experience with Audi dealerships, I was wondering what are his chances of getting Audi in ireland to replace the remaining ones.

I had my first experience with coil pack failures today, the car was running very lumpy, the engine management light was flashing, so I called out the AA who agreed on No1 Coilpack. They also disconnected the Injector so I could limp to the garage.

No Fuss or complaints from the service manager Mick at Gordon Lambs who took the keys from me & took the car straight into the garage. 30 Mins later I had my car back with 3 new coil packs on !!

Now that's Service !! :bouncer:

Graham

Coi pack failure? Sounds fishy!

Coi pack failure? Sounds fishy!

Good morning, Jon. Still got a GSOH, I see. Does this indicate that the tax man is subsidising your new engine?

Had a failure saturday morning, I always carry a spare so swapped it and carried on.

Thats two failures now, so Skoda owe me a complete set swap!

(must be the time of year again, the weak ones don't like this weather!)

Nope, engine is coming out of my pocket :( If however I discover that it was a manufacturing or degradation issue (cheers to the nice person who pointed me to a metallurgist ) I will be requesting a new engine. I ain't bitter about it, these things happen, why be miserable about it?

Anyway, coil packs, I've had 5 replacements, in fact I'm due for one fairly soon based on the law of averages

Ian, what version failed?

Good question, an original one, 2001 car....

Luckily it was cyl1 so was an easy swap and the first one I checked! Number 4 looks like it could be a pain to get to.

Good question' date=' an original one, 2001 car....

Luckily it was cyl1 so was an easy swap and the first one I checked! Number 4 looks like it could be a pain to get to.[/quote']No 4 is easier to get at than it looks - if you have a 10mm socket and a 5mm Allen key to hand.

(adds 10mm socket and 5mm allen key to "emergency" repair tools in car)

Thanks! :cheers:

No 4 is easier to get at than it looks - if[/b'] you have a 10mm socket and a 5mm Allen key to hand.

5mm allen key? I thought it was 8mm (see http://www.briskoda.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4103&page=1&pp=15&highlight=8mm+socket )

Some models don't have the coil packs bolted down, in which case the allen key won't be needed.

Coi pack failure? Sounds fishy!

Funny how you never notice typos till it's too late!!

It's now my intention to replace the other three coil packs myself.

Nope, engine is coming out of my pocket :(

At least you'll be able to stand up straight now Jon, eh?

Novice question

If my car starts the coil pack symptoms how do I decide which cylinder it is, probably a simple answer but I am sat here at the PC & the thought has just occured to me. I do carry spares but would look daft if I didnt know which one had gone.

Anyway back to work & remember to check tomorrow for the answers

Thanks

Stuart

Novice question

If my car starts the coil pack symptoms how do I decide which cylinder it is' date=' probably a simple answer but I am sat here at the PC & the thought has just occured to me. I do carry spares but would look daft if I didnt know which one had gone.

Anyway back to work & remember to check tomorrow for the answers

Thanks

Stuart[/quote']

It's posted somewhere, Stuart, (by Manny I think), but the answer is to disconnect the electrical connection from each one in turn. If the engine gets even more lumpy, it's not that one - if it stays the same, it is....

It's posted somewhere, Stuart, (by Manny I think), but the answer is to disconnect the electrical connection from each one in turn. If the engine gets even more lumpy, it's not that one - if it stays the same, it is....

Thats the only way, unless you have access to a vagcom or vag diag tool. Dont forget to switch OFF the ignition between tests to avoid possible electric shock. :eek:

5mm allen key? I thought it was 8mm (see http://www.briskoda.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4103&page=1&pp=15&highlight=8mm+socket )

Some models don't have the coil packs bolted down' date=' in which case the allen key won't be needed.[/quote']The 5mm Allen key is needed to remove the 3 bolts holding the vacuum reservoir bracket in place over the No 4 coilpack, not the coilpack itself. The bolts are green and can be seen in the following photo:

The 10mm socket is needed to remove the nut which holds the vacuum reservoir in place. (The vacuum reservoir is the shiny black plastic part in the centre of the second photo. It has been unclipped from the front of the retaining bracket, lifted off the threaded stud, and rotated 90

I've got a brand new Tavia. Was the standard fit coil pack changed to the new type so this failure can be avoided?

Steve

Coil pack versions 06B 905 115 D, G and H are being replaced with the 06B 905 115L free of charge. Cars fitted with the 06B 905 115J are not having the coilpacks replaced. I believe that the H version was the problematical one and was fitted to 2002 model year 1.8Ts (and possibly some earlier and/or later ones). The latest 1.8Ts are fitted with a different part number - ie 06A 905 115A . Chassis numbers of those cars are as follows:

1U-3-810 087>>

1U-3A020 277>>

1U-38712 054>>

It could well be that you have the latest type of coilpack fitted to your car, Steve.

Nope' date=' engine is coming out of my pocket :( If however I discover that it was a manufacturing or degradation issue (cheers to the nice person who pointed me to a metallurgist ) I will be requesting a new engine. I ain't bitter about it, these things happen, why be miserable about it?

Anyway, coil packs, I've had 5 replacements, in fact I'm due for one fairly soon based on the law of averages [/quote']

Deep pockets, indeed? Anyway, I admire your philosophical outlook.

The 5mm Allen key is needed to remove the 3 bolts holding the vacuum reservoir bracket in place over the No 4 coilpack' date=' not the coilpack itself. The bolts are green and can be seen in the following photo:

[img']http://homepage.ntlworld.com/denis.werb/Coil5a.jpg[/img]

The 10mm socket is needed to remove the nut which holds the vacuum reservoir in place. (The vacuum reservoir is the shiny black plastic part in the centre of the second photo. It has been unclipped from the front of the retaining bracket, lifted off the threaded stud, and rotated 90

Thanks Guys, I knew I could truust Briskodians to come up with a quick answer, now back to work