"WTF is this?", I thought aloud, as I pulled off the rear passenger door card to my wifes 07 Octy estate.  There's an ali plate with the window motor on the outside of it, and it appears to be riveted in.  Whatever happened to membrane you can just gaffer tape back on and 6 bolts to undo?  She has a window that keeps dropping but also the movement is cack handed on both door and master swtiches.  I've been reading about the switching, seems to a case of soldering or recoding, but I'm just after sorting the drop habit for now.

 

Can some please fill in the gaps on the following:

 

I drill out rivets holding ali membrane on,

pull the whole thing off,

drill out rivets holding motor on?

replace regulator

rivet motor back on,

shove it all back in door

bolt glass on, 

rivet ali membrane back on

 

Did I miss anything?  What a bloody caper this is going be.  ****ing rivet guns?  this is the 21st century ffs.

Making repair jobs quick and easy is not a priority to car manufacturers in this century.

On 1/26/2018 at 12:47, Wino said:

Making repair jobs quick and easy is not a priority to car manufacturers in this century.

 

It would appear not.  Can't wait to see how awkward it is to do a headlight bulb.

 

21 hours ago, CrazyL said:

 

It would appear not.  Can't wait to see how awkward it is to do a headlight bulb.

 

Weirdly easy! Undo a plastic nut with your fingers, pull a tab and hey presto; the whole head light pulls away from the car. Saves ripping your hands to shreds trying to squeeze them behind the unit. 

On 26/01/2018 at 12:04, CrazyL said:

"WTF is this?", I thought aloud, as I pulled off the rear passenger door card to my wifes 07 Octy estate.  There's an ali plate with the window motor on the outside of it, and it appears to be riveted in.  Whatever happened to membrane you can just gaffer tape back on and 6 bolts to undo?  She has a window that keeps dropping but also the movement is cack handed on both door and master swtiches.  I've been reading about the switching, seems to a case of soldering or recoding, but I'm just after sorting the drop habit for now.

 

Can some please fill in the gaps on the following:

 

I drill out rivets holding ali membrane on,

pull the whole thing off,

drill out rivets holding motor on?

replace regulator

rivet motor back on,

shove it all back in door

bolt glass on, 

rivet ali membrane back on

 

Did I miss anything?  What a bloody caper this is going be.  ****ing rivet guns?  this is the 21st century ffs.

 

 

two plastic bungs in the metal membrane - remove the bungs and screw two 5mm bolts into the plastic dowel and pull them out, the screw two 8mm bolts into another two plastic dowel and pull them out, tape the window glass to the top of the door, switch the ignition on and drop side window mechanisum then you can drill out the ali rivets holding the metal membrane in place. Check the neoprene seal on the reverse side of the metal membrane as they rot and allow water to enter the car interior.

 

Have a read at the attached short cut.

 

 

Also have a read at the attached

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/body/body_work/front_door_central_locking/front_door/removing_and_installing_door_assembly_carrier/

 

Paul

Cheers guys, although I should have mentioned it's a rear door, but no matter.  I went to drill the rivets out today, except they were particularly troublesome so I got the dremel out instead, at 7am, on the front yard, ha, bet the neighbours loved me.  As it turns out, the regulator is fine, which of course I couldn't determine until I had got membrane off.  What I did find though is that there is a hole in the white plastic window clip on the regulator, which corresponds with a hole in the window.  it was empty.  Can I assume there is a bung of some description that goes through this hole to fasten the window to the regulator?

 

It is a crap design for diy-ers for sure.  Not everyone has the disposable dosh to take it to a garage for such previously simple repairs.

If something has fallen out it will be in the bottom of the door

Sounds like the plastic spreader plug and pin are missing. See Haynes manual for details of how to fit new ones using two temporary bolts to screw them in. You would have had to put in a new pin anyway as the pin is one use only.

 

The pin connects to the window glass so that explains why the window kept dropping. The cause was a broken plastic pin, and is replaced through the hole you identified. No need to have drilled out the rivets. 

Hi guys

 

I'll have to get one of these pins then eh.  The other reason the window drops is because the window switch works cack handed,  I've read posts on here and it points to a coding issue which would explain why we found fob issues when we bought the car.