Boot/Trunk cannot open via exterior switch/button

[FilipeSilva]

Hi,

 

Living in the Netherlands and my poor car is struggling with this weather.Having several electric problem recently.

 

A new issue is now with the boot or trunk door that can't be opened. Only manually by putting down the back seat and touching the latch open.

Have been troubleshooting a bit and searching of course.

 

Need someone to help me confirming something I found and get to some conclusion:

- The actuator/solenoid is extended. I suppose that when it has no power on it, is it normally extended. To made the trunk/boot open it need to retract.

- Applied 12 volts to the solenoid nothing happened (only one time click sound).

- Manually I retracted the solenoid (pulled a lever and the extend of the solenoid goes inside of itself) and applied 12V. The solenoid immediately extends. Does this make sense/logic? Shouldn't, when applying power, the solenoid makes the trunk open? And to make it open the correct direction should be to retract not to extend itself, is this thinking correct?

- I checked also the switch/button between the license plate lights. With the multi-meter I get 1V (precisely) and when pressing the button I get 0V (precisely). Are these values OK? I would expect a bit more voltage.

- After seeing that click the button to open the trunc cuts the power (0 volts) i now understand that that this will make the solenoid have no power and go to its extended state. But it doesn't make sense (because as I said before, with 12v the solenoid extends itself - not the position to open the trunk.

 

what you think guys? can someone help me out?

 

 

[TripleMcB]

I know this sounds left field, but have you tried to open the boot by first opening and leaving open one of the other doors. I seem to remeber something about opening a boot by opening another door first. It was something to do with the solenoid signals. 

[FilipeSilva]

Yes, thank you for your idea. I tried that but still doesn't open. :(

I am not sure but i think this happened after the car hadn't battery and i had to close all doors with the key in driver door, copilot door and clicked the closer on each of the back doors. The trunk i didn't do nothing. And since then (i think) the trunk never opened. 

 

33 minutes ago, TripleMcB said:

I know this sounds left field, but have you tried to open the boot by first opening and leaving open one of the other doors. I seem to remeber something about opening a boot by opening another door first. It was something to do with the solenoid signals. 

 

Maybe you can help me by measuring the voltage in the 2 wires that connect to the solenoid to activate the trunk opening.

[Breezy_Pete]

Try applying 12V again but with this polarity:  +12V to pin 2 (where the green/red wire would connect), 0V to pin 1 (where the brown earth wire would connect), if that is not what you have already done.

[TMB]

4 hours ago, TripleMcB said:

I know this sounds left field, but have you tried to open the boot by first opening and leaving open one of the other doors. I seem to remeber something about opening a boot by opening another door first. It was something to do with the solenoid signals. 

 

Definitely worth ruling out. That is caused when the drivers door microswitch is failing/failed.

[FilipeSilva]

3 hours ago, Wino said:

Try applying 12V again but with this polarity:  +12V to pin 2 (where the green/red wire would connect), 0V to pin 1 (where the brown earth wire would connect), if that is not what you have already done.

 

I think that was how i did it, red/green being positive and brown as negative. 

If i invert this might not it burn the solenoid? i think the solenoid has only one polarity? 

 

[Breezy_Pete]

I don't think it will make a difference if it is a solenoid, but wiring info shows it as a motor.

I don't know what the reality is.

Edited 26 April, 2018 by Wino

[TMB]

Looking at this Audi one which is very similar, it looks like they have a motor in them...

 

 

[Breezy_Pete]

Makes me wonder if it gets fed +12V to make it go one way and -12V to go the other way? I'll have another look in a minute, but one pin is definitely earth, so maybe that's how it works.

[TMB]

I'm guessing the return works by a spring inside the white plastic cylindrical bit...

 

EDIT: Or maybe there's a coil spring (like a clock spring) inside the red bit. I think I can almost see it when he's actuating it.

 

 

Edited 26 April, 2018 by TMB

[Breezy_Pete]

Thats what I was expecting, but something about the description in the opening post made me think it wasn't behaving like that. That vid makes me go back to thinking spring, and wrong polarity in first experiment?

[TMB]

Yes could be wrong polarity.

[ArthurD]

This is what happens to mine. Any ideas?

20180422_095828_1.mp4

[FilipeSilva]

On 26/04/2018 at 17:12, Wino said:

Try applying 12V again but with this polarity:  +12V to pin 2 (where the green/red wire would connect), 0V to pin 1 (where the brown earth wire would connect), if that is not what you have already done.

 

Hi Wino! 

Did try the other polarity. And the solenoid worked in the direction to open the trunk. So i would say that the solenoid is fine. I just need to have current to power it when i click the switch! and that is not happening. No voltage whatsoever.

 

I tried to find were the 12v (of a small portable battery that i plugged to the solenoid) appear around the trunk switch but nothing. Still the 1v to 0v when the outside trunk switch/button is pressed.

 

Tomorrow i will open my driver side door. Gonna go and try to check the microswitch. 

 

Pretty sure the car inspection will fail because of the trunk not opening :(

 

Edited 1 May, 2018 by FilipeSilva

[Breezy_Pete]

I will have another look at the wiring diagrams now; remind me, please, what year is your car?

[FilipeSilva]

3 minutes ago, Wino said:

I will have another look at the wiring diagrams now; remind me, please, what year is your car?

 

It is from 2006, a hatchback.

Thank you Wino.

[ArthurD]

7 hours ago, ArthurD said:

This is what happens to mine. Any ideas?

20180422_095828_1.mp4

Someone take a look at this video to check if it is something that has happened to you.

[TMB]

56 minutes ago, FilipeSilva said:

Tomorrow i will open my driver side door. Gonna go and try to check the microswitch.

 

It won't be the door microswitch if the boot still doesn't open by opening one of the other doors first.

 

If your lights-on bleep works when you open the drivers door with your lights switched on (ignition off) and your interior iight comes on when you open the drivers door then the microswitch is OK.

 

 

Edited 1 May, 2018 by TMB

[Breezy_Pete]

First thing to check @FilipeSilva, is fuse 31 in the cabin fusebox. It supplies a relay inside the Onboard Supply Control Unit (J517, VCDS module 09) that feeds power to the lock motor when energised.

[FilipeSilva]

On 01/05/2018 at 21:52, Wino said:

First thing to check @FilipeSilva, is fuse 31 in the cabin fusebox. It supplies a relay inside the Onboard Supply Control Unit (J517, VCDS module 09) that feeds power to the lock motor when energised.

Hi Wino, 

Checked the fuse 31, seems fine and still no voltage in the wires connected to the solenoid. 

This is my fuse card map:

https://ibb.co/fo68in
https://ibb.co/jfMKpS

 

Gonna check where that relay is... 

[Breezy_Pete]

This is what the circuit looks like, V53 being the motor that you are calling the solenoid.

Check that the red/green wire coming from E234 to the Onboard supply control unit is going to 0V when the switch is pressed, and if that is happening, check for voltage on the green/red wire coming to V53 while the switch is pressed.

I'm not sure what impact the other switch - F218, inside the rear lock, would have if it is broken.

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the brown wires at the bottom of the diagram are earths, or should be. Check that they really do connect to chassis.

Edited 3 May, 2018 by Wino

[FilipeSilva]

Great data there Wino! Can you find on the schematic which voltage should be passing throw the exterior switch by the license plate. Because weird for me t being only 1V to 0V when pressed.

 

I barely know this stuff and the multiple names things can have.

 

I have changed (pretty expensive) i think it called comfort control module. Have to change this because it was faulty (car stopping after precisely 2 hours of driving). One thing that was fixed was the cruise control which has not been working for already 2 years.

Wiko: on your schematic this component is which one? Central convenience module?

 

To say, the trunk issue and other issue with my electric windows (also on another post) haven't been fixed with the replacement of this component.

 

Maybe with these small 

[plymvrs]

i had this happen earlier, my interior light stopped working, and i couldnt open my boot? only from inside the boot with the lever? any ideas?

[FilipeSilva]

On 06/05/2018 at 01:03, plymvrs said:

i had this happen earlier, my interior light stopped working, and i couldnt open my boot? only from inside the boot with the lever? any ideas?

Hi plymvrs,

 

I have studied meantime some wiring diagrams and that particular issue might be a faulty micro-switch in the lock of the trunk door (moving part of it).

This micro switch is not activated so the light will not turn on. So, in your case this: https://goo.gl/images/9t5xQJ might need to be replaced.

[retro]

On 01/05/2018 at 20:30, ArthurD said:

Someone take a look at this video to check if it is something that has happened to you.

Yep happens to mine occasionally, however I haven't found the cause.

 

But it has happened to my wife's fabia too and I can see your problem is the same as hers. The black arm that moves to open the boot is bent and slipping off the orange lever half way through the movement, you can see it slip off it in the video. You need to bend the lever straight again so it contacts on the orange part more.