That's as good a guide as I've seen for installing a dashcam - well done.

 

When I install my dashcams, I do a couple of things different which might speed up the process.

 

1:  I can't understand the issue with the piggyback fuse holder and blue 15amp fuse ( rear wiper ).  Yes, if you place it with the power lead coming out the bottom, that large metal electric seat fuse will stop the piggyback assembly from seating properly but all I do is place the fuse holder the other way around  i.e. so the piggy back fuse assembly now covers the brown 5amp and pink 30amp fuses to the right.  I use the piggyback fuse holders than come with NextBase cameras - seems such an obvious solution?  Perhaps the OP's fuseholder is of a different design.

 

 

2:  I don't unscrew any bolts to get my earth. Again, from the excellent pics taken by the OP:

 

 

All I do is use an m8 nut on the exposed thread in the above pic so you end up with:

 

 

Hope that helps someone.

 

PS.  Installation is exactly the same for the Octavia Mk3, Kodiaq and Karoq ( I'm guessing others as well ) but have to say in the case of the Karoq, the trim on the A-pillar is nowhere near as plyable as the Kodiaq.

 

 

Edited 27 November, 20205 yr by Guest

I would use the same installation for powering WiFi battery router as I have 50GB data/per month to spend and the kodiaqs with prod.date 2021 come without sim slot. 
As I learned that the power outlets disconnect 10 minutes after switching off, maybe a fuse number. 40 is OK ? ( 12-volt power outlets )  
Now I use the standard cigarette power outlet but it is a mess with the cable. 
What is your opinion ? 

Just seen this doing some general research into the Kodiaq. Wanted to say thanks fantastic write up

Brilliant guide, I really appreciate the effort you put into this, My Blackvue camera is now working a treat.

 

I thought I'd give something back, which might help others doing the same thing.

 

Something I couldn't find the answer to was the correct orientation of the piggy back fuse. Both ways round will actually work but electrically one is wrong and one is right. I've attached a drawing to explain it better.

 

On mine, the Ignition 12v terminal was on the top and the connection to the wiper was the bottom.

 

Thanks again to everyone.

 

 

Thanks for sharing, this will probably help me a lot !

Just an update for anyone tackling this.

 

I upgraded my Blackvue dash cam for a new model, unfortunately the new camera needed both ignition +ve and perm +ve connections, so out with the old cable and in with the new.

 

Two piggy back fuses.

Ignition +ve - Fuse 47 (Rear Window Wiper)

Permanent +ve - Fuse 40 (12-volt Power Outlets)

 

Hope this helps someone.

 

 

Using this well written guide, I have installed a Viofo A229 duo to my 2018 Kodiaq. I managed to fed the rear camera cable through the roof lining. But, I can't  get the boot lid cover off. I can easily get the cover free around the bottom and sides, but can't shift it from the bottom of the rear screen. Can anyone offer some advice on this? I really want to run the cable through the rubber grommets/sleeve so it looks like it belongs there - not an after thought.

Apart from this snag, the camera works well and the rear camera wiring doesn't seem to have affected the DAB radio reception as some have reported. The design of the dash cam main unit means that it doesn't  get in the way of the passenger sun visor.  I do have an issue getting the camera to talk to my android phone via WiFi. I usually have to reboot the camera. But this maybe an issue connected to security features installed by my company - I can't find any posts where others report the same problem. Photos to follow if/when I can properly Finish the install.

Sorry Sven I can't help you with the tailgate cover however, if I may, give you some advice on the tailgate rubber grommet.

 

West End Skoda in Edinburgh fitted the rear parking camera to my car, their technician broke the retaining clip for the rubber grommet that lead to a water leak. He/she clearly new they had broken it 'cause they tried to stick it back in with some black silicone rubber. Slightly off topic - when the car went back into West End Skoda for them to replace the grommet they managed to scratch the side of the car, it won't ever be going back to them again.

 

The cover, I believe, is the same as the Volkswagen Tiguan.

Many thanks Andy for your reply. As this maybe more problematic than I first thought, I will look at making a small hole in the rubber surround and thread the cable that way. I'll certainly have a look at VW Tiguan to see if there's any more help there. Thanks again.

Can you please tell me what fuse to wire my dash ca to inside the glove box of my Karoq ?

 I would like to know if its the same guide for a karoq dash cam installation. The dash can I want to use I need it to be wired for the parking sensor to activate when the engine is switched off please.

Stumbled across this excellent guide, deeply appreciated. 
I am planning to install 2 dashcams that are currently powered by USB instead of cigarette plugs. Is this achievable? My Kodiaq also has heated and electrically adjustable seats. 

This is such a well documented guide. Thank to so much for all the pictures. It has helped me a lot. Quick question - Does your installation also include a rear dashcam? I am trying to find a safe route for the rear dashcam wires and I am considering routing it via the floor panel instead of the headliner. Can't find any documentation around that. I assume you installed only the front camera?

Hi Sudeepg, I installed a rear dashcam and threaded the cable through the roof lining. I used a glass fibre rod (as used by electricians) to pull it through. Just make sure the cable runs behind the airbags - as close to the metal body, not the cosmetic stuff.

If you check through the early posts in this thread, you’ll see where others (including me) had an issue and found a work around/solution from this forum. 

3 hours ago, Sven57 said:

Hi Sudeepg, I installed a rear dashcam and threaded the cable through the roof lining. I used a glass fibre rod (as used by electricians) to pull it through. Just make sure the cable runs behind the airbags - as close to the metal body, not the cosmetic stuff.

If you check through the early posts in this thread, you’ll see where others (including me) had an issue and found a work around/solution from this forum. 

 

Thank you Sven57. The 2023 Kodiaq, as you may know, also has the panoramic sunroof, and pulling a wire through the roof liner seemed tricky, but I will take your advice and route it behind the airbags, close to the metal body. (Just not sure how to secure it). Since the airbags deploy downwards, it should not be an issue I suppose. I wonder if the loose wires will move about.

Due to the roof lining and insulation, there’s not much room for a cable to move. Mine doesn’t have a sun roof so I don’t know how much wiggle room you will have. Please only use  glass fibre rod to pull the cable. There’s a lot of other cables and plastics that could be damaged by pushing anything sharpish through the roof lining. Good luck.

You do need to be careful routing the cable along the headlining. The DAB aerial is up there and the electrical interference from the cable has resulted in a few issues with radio signal strength for some owners. Especially if any excess cable is coiled up.

Hello Everyone,

 

We installed the DashCam (Viofo) in my friend's car yesterday. Thank you for all the advice. It was not an easy task. Removing the rear panel was the most difficult due to the overengineered lock in the bottom of the tailgate. I will share a picture soon. Below are pictures of the installation. We made a small hole at the edge to relieve the wire of stress and then sanded the cut part to prevent shafing of wires.

 

We had a six meter cable for the rear dashcam which well short when we routed it through the door sil and via the roof liner towards the third row. So, we had to pass it via the roof liner behind the air bags. I believe we did a fairly good job keeping it out of the way in which the airbags deploy,

 

The third picture is of the fuse that we used. We did not use parking mode. Both the marked fuses are supplied with power in accessory or when the car is powered. This is on the Kodiaqs sold in India, BTW. The power side is at the bottom of the fuse as opposed to the top as noted in this thread in an earlier reply.

 

 

OK, so here we go with the difficult part of removing the tail gate trim. The first two pictures are from the lower part of the tail gate trim. The lock shown is near the top, i.e. near to the glass. On all other sides except both corners, you have clips, but at the corners, you have these "overengineered" locks which are extremely difficult to remove because you cannot see it. You risk breaking it if you apply too much force. Worse, without removing this, you cannot remove the top trim to thread the wires through the grommet.

 

The bottom two pictures show the space into which the bottom tail gate trim locks into. You will have to remove the clips of the bottom tailgate trim from the sides, somehow peep into the corners and then find and pinch the locks to release them. A small torch might be useful. If you can't, you really need to apply force just enough to wiggle out the lock. Be careful, it may break through or get some damage, which is unavoidable.

 

Once this bottom trim is removed, the top one can be removed after removing the two torx screws holding it at the sides and then pull out the rest of the trims.

 

Hope this is helpful.

Hello,

I’m trying to hardwire a VIOFO A229 Pro using the VIOFO HK4 Acc Hardwire Kit.

I’ve already connected the ACC (Fuse 47 – Rear Window Wiper) and the ground, but I’m looking for a constant power fuse to tap into for Parking Mode.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a suitable fuse to use?

Thanks

Check Fuse #40 - the 12V power supply socket fuses. They are hot all the time in my test.

8 hours ago, sudeepg said:

Check Fuse #40 - the 12V power supply socket fuses. They are hot all the time in my test.

I have checked it, and it appears that the power to fuse 40 shuts off a few minutes after you turn off the ignition...

Does anyone have any suggestions ?

12 minutes ago, SebastianP said:

I have checked it, and it appears that the power to fuse 40 shuts off a few minutes after you turn off the ignition...

Does anyone have any suggestions ?

 

Then I would use a multi tester without ignition turned on (wait a few minutes) and see which fuses are live. In the Kodiaq sold here, the 12V is always live and we found that using multi tester and also the dealership/service confirmed that.

a quite good guide but why buy a Garmin camera. Have installed a couple for friends and in a short time we binned them. absolute rubbish

Some wiring tips Make sure you run wires BEHIND any airbags or you may regret it. For rear cams I always run wiring along flooring edge under door sill trims. Why Because you cant get behind curtain airbags in the roof lining. For getting into rear taildoors the clips will be the same as VW do you lever the bit at each end from the inside (Under the corrugated bit GENTLY towards other end and lift it up, Be careful as break it and you have to pull all the wiring in the taildoor to fit a new one. Pull a string through with a wire or just use the wire to pull the cable through CAREFULLY

Here is a good howto Yes its a VW but inherently the same It shows quite a few guides which also apply to SKODAS

https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manufacturer/volkswagen/mk7-golf/mk7-golf-dash-cam-install/

https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manufacturer/volkswagen/mk7-golf/mk7-golf-a-pillar-trim-removal/

Also uses quality BLACKVUE camera. If you want a good cheaper one VIOFO are the way to go

ANything and I mean anything under about $150 is usually cheap Chines crap all out of the same factory with different brand names Like Gator Navig8or Mio Mivue etc Been there binned them all

Just want to thank you for this guide, my Nextbase has now been installed into it's 3rd car using the same hardwire kit.

Struggled getting the wire into the gap at the top of the windscreen, as mine seems to be glued very tight, but it's there... for now 😁.

Not brave enough to attempt the wiring for the rear one yet, so that will have to wait until I have a full weekend to play around with it.