Just got a 2006, wanting to keep it standard from a performance point of view.  I just wondered what owners would recommend to improve ride and handling.

RARB and ride does depend on your budget TBH. AP's have a good reputation amongst some and are a reasonable cost. Also depends on your preference for coilovers or spring kits. 

 

312mm brakes First thing I did when I got mine

Standard handling is appalling, especially on an worn out suspendies, get springs and dampers all round, the best your budget can stand and replace the console bushes, after that you can fit a RARB then get the big brakes.

3 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

especially on an worn out suspendies,

 

It's surprising how much a rarb makes a difference to the handling I was always sceptical until I fitted 1 wish I'd done it sooner. Refreshing the suspension will also help I have ap coilovers (and theyve been great not too stiff or harsh) but if you don't want to go low then I'd stick to shocks and springs (don't think I'd go coilovers again for a road car but never say never) 

Rear anti roll bar, and new suspension. New dog bone mount, New wishbone bushings. 12 year old suspension isn't gonna do you any favours.

 

Bilsteins or BC Racing.

3 hours ago, R1CH360 said:

It's surprising how much a rarb makes a difference to the handling I was always sceptical until I fitted 1 wish I'd done it sooner. Refreshing the suspension will also help I have ap coilovers (and theyve been great not too stiff or harsh) but if you don't want to go low then I'd stick to shocks and springs (don't think I'd go coilovers again for a road car but never say never) 

Thanks. I’m a complete newbie, I don’t want to change the standard ride height. It’s done 122K so I’m assuming it’s on the original suspension and it’s ready, so looking for a quality direct replacement.  Could you suggest a few manufacturers?  I don’t have a bottomless pit for a budget but happy to spend more for a good quality product

2 hours ago, ManThatCan said:

Thanks. I’m a complete newbie, I don’t want to change the standard ride height. It’s done 122K so I’m assuming it’s on the original suspension and it’s ready, so looking for a quality direct replacement.  Could you suggest a few manufacturers?  I don’t have a bottomless pit for a budget but happy to spend more for a good quality product

Just buy bilstein/sachs/kyb suspension all good brands. Your rear shocks will be doing almost nothing if they are the original ones. 

 

 

I've only had ap and stock so can't comment on anything other than that but they've been brilliant.

 Rear Anti roll bar, uprated suspension as some people find the ride a tad wallowy.

 

You dont NEED 312mm brakes unless you are going to continually drive sprititedly to stop.

On 15/08/2018 at 22:49, lfc958 said:

 Rear Anti roll bar, uprated suspension as some people find the ride a tad wallowy.

 

You dont NEED 312mm brakes unless you are going to continually drive sprititedly to stop.

312mm brakes are an excellent improvement, 1st thing i did on mine and inspires much more confidence that you will be able to stop well when you are pushing on a bit

5 minutes ago, JWvrs25 said:

312mm brakes are an excellent improvement, 1st thing i did on mine and inspires much more confidence that you will be able to stop well when you are pushing on a bit

 

Obvioulsy NEED them then, as you admit to a lack of confidence in ability to judge braking distance when driving fast      

 

As I said - You dont NEED 312mm brakes unless you are going to continually drive sprititedly to stop.

 

Whats your point then? no need to do any suspension upgrades either standard is fine within its limits.

 

OP asking for upgrades probably because they want to enjoy a bit more performance in their car, id say starting with brakes is a good place to begin, no point making your car quicker if it cant stop eh?

13 hours ago, lfc958 said:

Obvioulsy NEED them then, as you admit to a lack of confidence in ability to judge braking distance when driving fast      

 

As I said - You dont NEED 312mm brakes unless you are going to continually drive sprititedly to stop.

 

You don’t NEED any of the above modifications. You could say you only need any of the above modifications if you are continually driving hard to make them worthwhile. 

 

Replacing tired parts for OEM will make a difference in a car that feels baggy after 12 years on the road BUT the OP asked what improvements can be made to improve ride and handling. All of the above mentioned modifications do that including the brakes unless you know something different? It’s nothing to do with a lack of confidence or judging stopping distances it’s about improving the feel of the brakes on your foot to improve your driving experience. 

 

 FWIW the brakes were the first thing I changed when I got my VRS because they were pish poor. IMO they felt like they took an age to stop and I didn’t like the feel of the pedal.  Maybe it’s because I was used to driving my m3 as a daily before I got the Fabia or maybe it’s because my Fabia has been remapped and felt like it took longer to stop. Either way changing the brakes improved the drive considerably for me. Not only did they improve the drive of the car they also look better than then standard brakes too so you get performance and aesthetic improvements. Brilliant mod. 

I have had my car remapped as readers on here will know and thanks to the advice I have received on this site am going with B12 matched springs and shocks £555.00. I picked up second hand Audi TT Mk1 calipers which I cleaned up and repainted plus pads which have plenty wear left in them plus 312mm front discs for £90. Bought replacement pistons and seals online £20. Have also bought new rear standard calipers for £100 online. Will recondition those coming off the car, its always the rears that seize probably through lack of use. I still have to add in the cost of new mounts all round. Have been quoted £600 plus VAT for fitting which seems expensive so looking for an alternative. Also fitting rear anti roll bar £146.00.

Some might think this is a lot to spend on a 12 year old car with 104,000 on it, my thoughts are that I know the car has never been thrashed, its been regularly serviced is cheap to insure and tax, has been very reliable and has a terrific engine, I could sell it for next to nothing and buy a dog which could cost a fortune to fix. My only regret is that I didn't remap the vehicle earlier, it's a joy to drive, though the fuel consumption has declined probably due to the fact that I try to keep the revs above 2000 when using the accelerator aggressively.

Edited 20 August, 20187 yr by Boatman1
Forgot a new part

On ‎20‎/‎08‎/‎2018 at 18:59, Boatman1 said:

I have had my car remapped as readers on here will know and thanks to the advice I have received on this site am going with B12 matched springs and shocks £555.00. I picked up second hand Audi TT Mk1 calipers which I cleaned up and repainted plus pads which have plenty wear left in them plus 312mm front discs for £90. Bought replacement pistons and seals online £20. Have also bought new rear standard calipers for £100 online. Will recondition those coming off the car, its always the rears that seize probably through lack of use. I still have to add in the cost of new mounts all round. Have been quoted £600 plus VAT for fitting which seems expensive so looking for an alternative. Also fitting rear anti roll bar £146.00.

Some might think this is a lot to spend on a 12 year old car with 104,000 on it, my thoughts are that I know the car has never been thrashed, its been regularly serviced is cheap to insure and tax, has been very reliable and has a terrific engine, I could sell it for next to nothing and buy a dog which could cost a fortune to fix. My only regret is that I didn't remap the vehicle earlier, it's a joy to drive, though the fuel consumption has declined probably due to the fact that I try to keep the revs above 2000 when using the accelerator aggressively.

£146 to fit the RARB?! Yikes that seems expensive to me, depending on your ability levels, or nearby friends levels, maybe have a go yourself with a more knowledgeable mate backing you up?

 

I went for 312s because they were the most suggested upgrade to the model, I had an Ibiza Sport PD130 when I first had a diesel, as one of my first mods too. It made a hell of a difference when someone decided to move into my lane when I was doing 70mph and passing them not sure I'd have been able to stop otherwise. It may or may not be needed it all depends on your view point, as you're looking at mods and power maybe one of them at sometime, possibly, then I'd replace the brakes as they're lacking IMO. 

 

Suspension can be very expensive upgrade and you have to cost out what you think the car is worth to you, how much you're willing to spend on it and how long you're keeping it. That all factors in on that decision IMO

 

Depending on what gearbox code you have, short or long ratios, does depend on fuel consumption at motorway speeds I preferred the long ratio as I could cruise at reasonable rate of knots and still maintain a good mpg figure on long runs.

3 hours ago, Skoda_Saint said:

£146 to fit the RARB?! Yikes that seems expensive to me, depending on your ability levels, or nearby friends levels, maybe have a go yourself with a more knowledgeable mate backing you up?

 

I went for 312s because they were the most suggested upgrade to the model, I had an Ibiza Sport PD130 when I first had a diesel, as one of my first mods too. It made a hell of a difference when someone decided to move into my lane when I was doing 70mph and passing them not sure I'd have been able to stop otherwise. It may or may not be needed it all depends on your view point, as you're looking at mods and power maybe one of them at sometime, possibly, then I'd replace the brakes as they're lacking IMO. 

 

Suspension can be very expensive upgrade and you have to cost out what you think the car is worth to you, how much you're willing to spend on it and how long you're keeping it. That all factors in on that decision IMO

 

Depending on what gearbox code you have, short or long ratios, does depend on fuel consumption at motorway speeds I preferred the long ratio as I could cruise at reasonable rate of knots and still maintain a good mpg figure on long runs.

Skoda Saint £146 was the cost of the RARB not the fitting.

56 minutes ago, Boatman1 said:

Skoda Saint £146 was the cost of the RARB not the fitting.

Ahh ok no worries, which one did you get Whiteline?

11 minutes ago, Skoda_Saint said:

Ahh ok no worries, which one did you get Whiteline?

Yes