Getting a cable into the cabin

[wyx087]

What is the easiest and rainproof way to get a mains power cable into the cabin?

 

Wind deflectors?

 

I've built a 2kW heater attachment for the rear arm rest. It plugs into a timer which goes to the house external socket. Like my EV, I now have timed pre-heating and no longer need deal with the ice on windscreen (tested last 2 mornings).  

 

Problem is all the panel gaps are too small, repeatedly damage the mains cable every day is a no-go. Currently the cable runs to the top of rear door, using the thicker seal. But looks like rain water will run along the cable into the car this way.

 

Would the car sound the alarm if one of the window is slightly open?  if I disable interior monitoring.

 

 

[ian_feel_keepin_it_reel]

If you open the window slightly you'll definitely get rain water leaking in. It shouldn't sound the alarm if you remember to turn the interior monitor off, but it will quickly become a hassle remembering to do that every day.

 

This is a nice idea but it sounds like a fire risk to me. How long are you running the heater for?

 

If you do have water leaking in you want to make sure the cable to the heater drops down lower than the heater, so any water that runs down the cable collects at the low point, and doesn't flow directly onto your heater. Otherwise you're just asking for an electrical fire.

[brettikivi]

Google DEFA. Please use the correct sockets / plugs for this, it's not uncommon. Termini also actually have a decent temp sensor to stop them getting too warm, too. 

 

 - Bret

Edited 30 October, 2018 by brettikivi

[wyx087]

I'm wondering whether there's a better way of getting power into the car.

 

Whether a wind deflector on the window will solve this:

• I can run the cable into the car without stressing the door seals
• rain water won't get in with the slightly open window
• rain water also won't drop along the cable because the highest point of the cable is inside the wind deflector

Heater is to be run for 30min. I've found 15min is barely enough now (Monday), won't be enough when it's <0c.

 

The fire risk I can see is due to cable being damaged by repeatedly jammed by the door. Nothing else will be left in the open, the outdoor socket are weatherproof, the cable is designed for outdoor use. The heater has overheat cut-off switch and tip-over protection, it is fixed to a cardboard which slides over the centre armrest so it won't tip over. Hot air will be blown to the space between the front seats, not near any flammable objects.

 

Of course during rainy days, this isn't needed. It's needed during snowy days and frosty days. But sometimes weather forecast gets it wrong so I need to account for rain and snow.

[ian_feel_keepin_it_reel]

Ah okay. You've put my mind at ease with regards to safety. I agree with you, wind deflectors would probably do the trick. That's probably your best bet without going down the route of having a bispoke socket fitted to the outside of your car somewhere.

 

A lead through the firewall with a water proof socket in the wheel well?

[ian_feel_keepin_it_reel]

18 hours ago, brettikivi said:

Google DEFA. Please use the correct sockets / plugs for this, it's not uncommon. Termini also actually have a decent temp sensor to stop them getting too warm, too. 

 

 - Bret

These kits look really cool, but there doesn't appear to be much of a market for them in the UK. 

[brettikivi]

right, because most of you don't have sockets outside or a real needs for it. It's still a correctly-load-sized IP68-capable plug / socket system with armoured cables. 

 

Termini come with a mounting plate and a thermo cutout above 10C or so; there's no chance of them falling over. There's also the standard engine block heater to go with, and various chargers should you want them. Personally, we have Termini in both older cars (but not the Octy, as that has a Webasto) and the block heaters work well. I have a seven-day timer on the wife's Fi. 

 

Snow doesn't get melted fast enough by an interior heater. You still need to clear it or you'll have condensation on the inside.

 

Everything else is essentially playing with fire, especially as an insurance company will probably be looking for any excuse to avoid a payout. 

 

 - Bret

Edited 31 October, 2018 by brettikivi

[pist0nbr0ke]

You could probably get a cable through between the rear bumper and the closed boot lid, with some extra rubber sheathing (ooer  ) to protect the cable. The seal is pretty flexible.

[JohnnyType2]

I've run lots of these with VW camping Zig units. i wouldn't advise going down through any seal, there are grommets under the rear seat that i have used for my active sound unit which would work as you can attach the external socket to a rail under the car and remain completely water proof. You would plug in just beside the rear wheel.

this is where I've run the external wiring for my active sound unit from and there is a large void on the passenger side (UK) to the side of the exhaust. There is a large cover which can be removed for access.

Edited 31 October, 2018 by JohnnyType2

[wyx087]

A hot enough cabin can melt snow on the window. My Nissan Leaf EV has 3kW remote control heater built-in, it was able to melt ~3cm snow on its window no problem. The cabin was set to toasty warm 22c and only needed to run for 15min. Essentially, I don't want to go back to "third world" cold cabin when I had to drive the outdated ICE car.

 

Indeed if the fire were started as result of my heater addition. Insurance company will not pay out. But I'm confident as long as the power cable isn't damaged, there are no other fire risk. I'm using all quality branded components (heater, timer, power cable) Exterior domestic socket is installed by a professional and cable is the same 40amps armoured cable as my EV charger, to allow me to charge my EV.

 

 

The gap between rear bumper and hatch on the outside is not big enough, slamming the boot lid will damage the power cable.

 

The rear seat method is interesting...... but I'm not keen to have any connector exposed to the elements. Underside of the car as well!

 

[wg100]

14 minutes ago, wyx087 said:

A hot enough cabin can melt snow on the window. My Nissan Leaf EV has 3kW remote control heater built-in, it was able to melt ~3cm snow on its window no problem. The cabin was set to toasty warm 22c and only needed to run for 15min. Essentially, I don't want to go back to "third world" cold cabin when I had to drive the outdated ICE car.

 

Indeed if the fire were started as result of my heater addition. Insurance company will not pay out. But I'm confident as long as the power cable isn't damaged, there are no other fire risk. I'm using all quality branded components (heater, timer, power cable) Exterior domestic socket is installed by a professional and cable is the same 40amps armoured cable as my EV charger, to allow me to charge my EV.

 

 

The gap between rear bumper and hatch on the outside is not big enough, slamming the boot lid will damage the power cable.

 

The rear seat method is interesting...... but I'm not keen to have any connector exposed to the elements. Underside of the car as well!

 

 

You need something like this: https://www.defa.com/product/connection-kit/

It includes a weatherproof socket which is mounted on the outside of the car somewhere. You then plug the car in to the wall with the green cable.

Edited 1 November, 2018 by wg100

[wyx087]

Thanks. I see how this can come together. Route it through the bit posted by JohnnyType2 and have the weatherproof socket somewhere. Then plug in via the green cable. This would be the proper way to get power into the cabin.

 

But I think I'll stick with wind deflector method for the few times I will use it. Unless my added effort can mean insurance will pay out in the unlikely even of vehicle fire. Which I don't think will happen.

[Breezy_Pete]

It might be a sound idea to connect the earth of whatever incoming mains cable you have to chassis. I'm no electrician, but I think otherwise there is the possibility that with a very unlucky cable fault you could end up with the car body sitting at live potential, waiting for a victim...

Edited 1 November, 2018 by Wino

[DaveWK]

2 minutes ago, Wino said:

It might be a sound idea to connect the earth of whatever incoming mains cable you have to chassis. I'm no electrician, but I think otherwise there is the possibility that with a very unlucky cable fault you could end up with the car body sitting at live potential, waiting for a victim...

Always had that concern when I was caravanning.

Caravan sitting on rubber tyres, rubber jockey wheel, corner steadies on plastic or wooden pads. Say farmer Gile's lad comes to collect fee, Wet grass, wet sandals, wet hand. Knocks on aluminium door frame. Oops!

Caravan mains safety is completely reliant on earh cable in the site post. If that's missing the caravan and chassis could be live.  Mains equipment in van might be working fine and occupants wouldn't be aware. An earth spike connected to the chassis with cable and crocodile clip would solve potential problem. Maybe more modern caravans than mine have better electrical mains equipment.

[wg100]

40 minutes ago, wyx087 said:

Thanks. I see how this can come together. Route it through the bit posted by JohnnyType2 and have the weatherproof socket somewhere. Then plug in via the green cable. This would be the proper way to get power into the cabin.

 

But I think I'll stick with wind deflector method for the few times I will use it. Unless my added effort can mean insurance will pay out in the unlikely even of vehicle fire. Which I don't think will happen.

They also do a retrofit internal fan heater which connects into their wiring system. It goes in the passenger footwell. I would imagine if this was installed according to the manufacturer's instructions, then it would not be a reason to fail an insurance claim (assuming the insurers have been informed of the addition).

[PetrolDave]

4 hours ago, Wino said:

It might be a sound idea to connect the earth of whatever incoming mains cable you have to chassis. I'm no electrician, but I think otherwise there is the possibility that with a very unlucky cable fault you could end up with the car body sitting at live potential, waiting for a victim...

And is now a requirement in the latest 18th Edition of the Wiring Regulations.