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Help sourcing DSG flywheel and clutch pack


Bagpuss

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Hi All,

 

Just wondering if anyone can help me?

Recently bought a high mile 2.0TDi CR 170 L+K Superb Estate (2012), and sadly the flywheel has started to fail.

As the car has around 180,000 miles on it, I figure it's worth changing the clutch pack at the same time.

It's not slipping, but at that mileage, I figured it's a false economy if the box is already off.

 

My local dealer has been pretty reasonable on the labour (£600 all in), but they want stupid money for the parts.

They've said they'll do the job if I supply the parts, but will only do it if I get genuine VAG bits.

 

Right now, they've quoted me £353.43+VAT for the clutch pack, and £552.53 + VAT for the flywheel.

If anyone knows where I could get these bits cheaper, I'd be very grateful.

 

I've already spoken to Darkside Developments, and they can supply an OE clutch pack, but aren't sure about the flywheel.

 

Thanks,

 

Andy.

 

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Thanks Chimaera.

I've got those part numbers, but it's good to confirm. 

I'm just trying to find a way to source them cheaper than the Skoda dealer.

If anyone knows someone who could get the bits at trade prices, that would be great.

 

 

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On 23/11/2018 at 12:02, Bagpuss said:

I've already spoken to Darkside Developments, and they can supply an OE clutch pack, but aren't sure about the flywheel.

 

 

 

Flywheel is £275 on their website

Clutch pack looks  like its £324

Edited by SuperbTWM
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Trouble is that the flywheel isn't VAG branded. It's the same part, but the dealer refuses to fit it. 

 

On the clutch pack, you have only one choice. The dealer. Nobody else makes it. I've seen uprated plate kits, where you can rebuild your existing pack, so that might be an option. 

 

Still looking into it all. Am thinking I might actually give it a go myself. It doesn't seem that hard to get the box off the car, which is where most of the labour is. Actually, changing the flywheel or fitting the clutch pack seems pretty straightforward, as long as you've got the locking tool and calipers. I'm just trying to source them now. 

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2 hours ago, trygve123 said:

Did you have manual transmission? the locking tool for the flywheel? ive seen they uses common tools to lock it...

No, not the flywheel. There's a special tool used to lock the DSG clutch pack in place during the measuring process to determine the required shim width to retain the clutch pack in the gearbox.

This thing:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Tools-7367-Clutch-Retaining-Tool-VAG-VW-Audi-DSG-02E-6-Speed-/161032831674

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On 24/11/2018 at 13:28, silver1011 said:

Where are you based?

 

I paid £600 for a LUK clutch and flywheel, fitted, for £600 inc. VAT from Darcy's of Durham...

 

 

I strongly suspect that this was for a manual box. The parts alone for the DSG box cost more than that.

My local dealer has quoted me just a shade under £2000 for the job. They reckon it's a 7 hour job, which I can easily believe.

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47 minutes ago, Bagpuss said:

 

I strongly suspect that this was for a manual box. The parts alone for the DSG box cost more than that.

My local dealer has quoted me just a shade under £2000 for the job. They reckon it's a 7 hour job, which I can easily believe.

 

It is, I'm not brave enough to run a DSG out of warranty.

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47 minutes ago, silver1011 said:

 

It is, I'm not brave enough to run a DSG out of warranty.

Generally, the later DSG boxes seem to be pretty reliable. Flywheel and clutch seem to be the only common failure items. I know the mechatronic units can fail, but they seem a lot more reliable than they used to be.

If the box is serviced regularly (which I know this one has been), then they can go on for a long time. I've got a friend with a 2006 Octavia that has this box, and he's done nearly 300,000 miles on the original clutch pack. He's needed a couple of flywheels in that time, but that's it. He did have a mechatronic replaced under warranty too. He reckons the secret is to allow the box to warm up before being too aggressive with it. Good advice on any car, really.

 

As it stands, I've got the box off the car now. Took about 5 hours. Will do the flywheel tomorrow, and then decide if I'm going to muck with the clutch. The box was last serviced about 10,000 miles ago, so if I don't touch the clutch, I'll probably just pop it back on the car. I'm tempted by the 'If it ain't broke' mentality here.

 

On the flipside, now that I've taken the time to remove it, it seems stupid not to do the clutch pack. I've managed to source the special tools, so it's just a case of buying the part.

What I'm struggling with is knowing how much oil it will take to refill. From what I read in the service manual, the box has a total capacity of 7.2 litres. A typical oil change needs around 4.5-5.0 litres, implying that there is still a significant quantity of fluid left in the box. I've watched a few YouTube videos of the clutch change, and when they pop open the clutch cover, there doesn't seem to be much fluid leakage. This is not what I would have expected if there is still a couple of litres in there somewhere. Do you do something else to further drain the box? When it comes to refilling, do you fill with approx. 5 litres or did it require the full 7?

 

If anyone knows about that part of the job, then I'd really appreciate a comment.

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Here is some more info. clutch set im about to do the job myself soon. Does the megatronic have its own oil? or is that only on 7speed box? ive read you have to be carefull not to spill any oil from that unit.

Otherwise i will just Drain Dsg and measure. after job replace what came out. add alittle extra and hook up vcds and empty the small about thats left. 

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15 hours ago, trygve123 said:

Here is some more info. clutch set im about to do the job myself soon. Does the megatronic have its own oil? or is that only on 7speed box? ive read you have to be carefull not to spill any oil from that unit.

Otherwise i will just Drain Dsg and measure. after job replace what came out. add alittle extra and hook up vcds and empty the small about thats left. 

I don't believe the Mechatronic has it's own oil on the 02E. Certainly, there's no mention of it in the Skoda service manual. I paid for the latest version from Erwin a few days ago. If you'd like to take a look at it, let me know. 

I've spoken to a couple of people who've done this job before, and with regards to refilling with oil, they recommend the following:

1) Refit box to car. 

2) Fill box with 4.5-5 litres of oil. 

3) Start engine to allow oil pump to begin circulating oil in the box. 

4) Check to see if oil if leaking from drain plug. If yes, then monitor oil temperature with VCDS and allow oil to drain until temp. reaches 35 degrees C. If no oil is leaking, then stop engine and add further oil until it does start leaking past the snorkel. 

5) Repeat VCDS procedure. 

6) Put drain plug back in. 

 

As you say, the best way to know how much to add is to measure how much was drained. Gives a good ballpark figure, and you can work from there. 

I'm still undecided on whether to actually do the job. The gearbox is actually working fine, apart from the issues with the flywheel. 

I'm tempted to leave it alone for now, as I know it's been serviced at the right times. In addition, I could really do without the expense this close to Christmas. 

I reckon I'm looking at around £600 just for the bits, and the special tools to do the job.

 

Hope you manage to get it done okay. I'll post here with the results of my efforts. 

 

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2 hours ago, superbdreams said:

How does one know that the flywheel is failing?

It sounds like this, particularly when the engine is cold:

https://youtu.be/Y6HNYvHf9xg

 

On mine, the noise goes away once the car has warmed up, which is also typical in the early stages of failure. 

If it's happening even when the engine is warm, then get it changed ASAP. If it fails completely, then you're looking at a VERY big bill. 

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2 hours ago, superbdreams said:

How does one know that the flywheel is failing?

 

Rattles, loud knocks, vibrations and the sensation of a slipping clutch (but without the burnt smell of one that is actually slipping).

 

Not always easy to diagnose as other items can cause the same symptoms...

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3 minutes ago, TheRobinK said:

 

 

Rattles, loud knocks, vibrations and the sensation of a slipping clutch (but without the burnt smell of one that is actually slipping).

 

Not always easy to diagnose as other items can cause the same symptoms...

On mine, I'm getting the rattling at idle and vibration when driving which almost sounds like a heat shield or similar is vibrating in the engine bay.

Also, when you stop the car, there is a loud knocking and quite heavy vibration for a couple of seconds. 

 

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