Fitting mud flaps to the Škoda Karoq is a simple DIY job with only a minimum of tools required.

I have scanned the [Front] fitting instructions into a PDF for you. (I will try and find the instructions for the rear set. I may still have them somewhere. I will post them here when I find them) I have scanned the instructions as a shortened and smaller file with U.K. instructions only, and also a larger second PDF complete with all the languages that the original contained for our friends abroad.

 

I managed to fit all four mud flaps in about an hour, and without the need to remove any of the wheels. Just putting the steering on opposite locks gave me sufficient room to work and you can wind a 6mm (6.2mm) drill through the wheel arch liner by hand quite easily if you do not have a right angle drill adapter.

 

Note: When fitting the “Expanding Rivet” you may find it difficult to push home the plastic pin. If you do, enlarge the hole to 6.2mm. This will ensure that the pin engages easily and firmly. This problem is caused by the way the plastic pin expands the rivet in the thick plastic wheel arch liner.

 

 

Hope this helps you! Regards…….Tony

 

PDF LINKS:

Karoq Mud Flaps [Front] UK Version

 

Karoq Mud Flaps [Front] International Version

Instead of enlarging the hole to fit the expanding rivet try removing the centre pin (it just pulls out) and put the tiniest amount of liquid soap on it. Makes it easier to push in. 

 

Tom

Dealer did it for me :-)

Any dealership should do it for a payment, did yours do it for free, just you paying the cost of the flaps.

Did pay for cost of mud flaps and work to intall. 

Hi Great Yeti,

 

I am planning on doing this little job next week and have a question.  I would rather not remove the wheel (as I only have a space saver spare and the supplied jack) so I was wondering if you actually have to undo all of the bolts in image 5 or can you leave the one hidden behind the disk in-situ.  I have a dremmel with a flex shaft to do the drilling bit but don't want to muck it up 🙂

 

 

Thanks

Paul

 

Hi Paul 🖐️

In answer to your question and as I said in my original post:

 

"I managed to fit all four mud flaps in about an hour, and without the need to remove any of the wheels. Just putting the steering on opposite locks gave me sufficient room to work " No need to jack the car etc. 

 

It's REALLY easy and fitting all four mudflaps took me less than an hour (& and i'm 73 and not as fit as I once was!). Read the original posts  second Paragraph and the Note about the expanding rivet,  and you will do it easily!.....Best of luck......Tony

Hi Tony.

 

Thanks for the encouragement and confirmation.  I like the word "Easy".  Mine are arriving tomorrow and I plan to give it a go over the weekend,  I'll let you know how I get on 🙂

 

Cheers,

Paul

 

Well I did it 😁

 

Fronts:

One other tip for anyone else (fronts).  Use a new (ie, really sharp) drill bit and just pop in the middle panel screw.  Hand twist the drill bit all the way through (top and bottom) wearing gloves.  No need for a right angle drill! Remove flap, pull out trim and make sure you remove every last piece of swarf from the back and front of the hole.  If you don't the pop rivets will not go in.  I got a bit annoyed at one point and nearly broke one of them!! A stanley knife does the trick with the drill bit "in the hole" to push the swarf out to allow trimming it off fully. Once that's done its easy!  First one took nearly an hour. Second one took 10 minutes once I learned about the swarf.

 

Rears easy!

 

Paul

 

On 16/01/2019 at 15:25, Great Yeti said:

Fitting mud flaps to the Škoda Karoq is a simple DIY job with only a minimum of tools required.

I have scanned the [Front] fitting instructions into a PDF for you. (I will try and find the instructions for the rear set. I may still have them somewhere. I will post them here when I find them) I have scanned the instructions as a shortened and smaller file with U.K. instructions only, and also a larger second PDF complete with all the languages that the original contained for our friends abroad.

 

I managed to fit all four mud flaps in about an hour, and without the need to remove any of the wheels. Just putting the steering on opposite locks gave me sufficient room to work and you can wind a 6mm (6.2mm) drill through the wheel arch liner by hand quite easily if you do not have a right angle drill adapter.

 

Note: When fitting the “Expanding Rivet” you may find it difficult to push home the plastic pin. If you do, enlarge the hole to 6.2mm. This will ensure that the pin engages easily and firmly. This problem is caused by the way the plastic pin expands the rivet in the thick plastic wheel arch liner.

 

 

Hope this helps you! Regards…….Tony

 

PDF LINKS:

Karoq Mud Flaps [Front] UK Version

 

Karoq Mud Flaps [Front] International Version

 

 

Good info re fitting and thanks for that, do you find the car stays much cleaner with the flaps fitted? Only had my Karoq a day,  living in the country the roads are often have interesting matter which ends up on the car

 

Hi Dyrnog

Yes, I do find it improves things very much! Not only that, but it prevents so much spray being thrown up when on fast roads. So I think it’s safer too.........Tony

Can anyone send the instructions for the rear flap? I did it myself but there's only 3 screws to put back and the screw at the floor doesn't screw back in both of them ffor some reason. Thanks in advance 

The instructions are printed on the back of the cardboard top to the plastic bag - so easily discarded! 

 

Hope this is legible?

 

Chris

Οh thanks a lot mate! For some reason the dealership gave me no extra screws or tools! I've to contact them! 

2 minutes ago, Drumkaroq said:

Οh thanks a lot mate! For some reason the dealership gave me no extra screws or tools! I've to contact them! 

I wouldn't expect any tools, but the screws and plastic rivet things should be there.

 

Chris

Just wondering,  did anybody who has fitted the front flaps find it necessary to follow item 5 and 6 in instructions and remove plastic trim under wing when drilling hole?

Having just fitted mine yesterday, I'll summarise how it went. 

 

The rears were fiddly with the wheels on, due to the lack of space between the tyre and the wheel lining. However, removing the existing Torx screws was easy with an L-shaped Torx driver, and the same screws were then used to hold the mudflap in place. The expanding rivet was a pain to fit in at first because I was trying to put it in the hole nearest the outer edge, but went in a lot easier when I put it in the inside hole. The pin was very reluctant to push in even after lubricating it, but tapping with a small hammer (carefully!) finally got it in. The push-in plug went in under the bumper easily. 

 

The front ones had better access once I put the steering wheel on full lock. Working on the near-side, I put it to full left-hand lock, and removed the lower Torx screw from the lining, replacing it with the mudflap. Then mark the position of the new top hole. Remove mudflap, and the next Torx screw above it. This gives you enough flexibility to pull the lining forward and protect the car body with a strip of wood. I then drilled the required hole for the expanding rivet, and replaced the two Torx screws with the mudflap. Putting the steering to full fight-hand lock gave me room to drill the inside hole. The expanding rivets were again a pain to get into place and secured with the pins. The front wheels are now in the right position to start on the off-side mudflap. 

 

The official instructions tell you to put the car on a garage lift and remove all wheels. But for the owner doing the job at home on the drive, it's easier to do it as we've described above.  

 

Chris

5 hours ago, CJJE said:

Thanks for the useful info and tips Chris, along with the other tips in this thread and weather permitting I will have a go next week to fit my mud flaps.

 

10 hours ago, CJJE said:

Having just fitted mine yesterday, I'll summarise how it went. 

 

The rears were fiddly with the wheels on, due to the lack of space between the tyre and the wheel lining. However, removing the existing Torx screws was easy with an L-shaped Torx driver, and the same screws were then used to hold the mudflap in place. The expanding rivet was a pain to fit in at first because I was trying to put it in the hole nearest the outer edge, but went in a lot easier when I put it in the inside hole. The pin was very reluctant to push in even after lubricating it, but tapping with a small hammer (carefully!) finally got it in. The push-in plug went in under the bumper easily. 

 

The front ones had better access once I put the steering wheel on full lock. Working on the near-side, I put it to full left-hand lock, and removed the lower Torx screw from the lining, replacing it with the mudflap. Then mark the position of the new top hole. Remove mudflap, and the next Torx screw above it. This gives you enough flexibility to pull the lining forward and protect the car body with a strip of wood. I then drilled the required hole for the expanding rivet, and replaced the two Torx screws with the mudflap. Putting the steering to full fight-hand lock gave me room to drill the inside hole. The expanding rivets were again a pain to get into place and secured with the pins. The front wheels are now in the right position to start on the off-side mudflap. 

 

The official instructions tell you to put the car on a garage lift and remove all wheels. But for the owner doing the job at home on the drive, it's easier to do it as we've described above.  

 

Chris

I wrote this late last night, but I'd like to correct a typo in the third para! I put the steering on full right-hand lock of course - not fight-hand!

 

Chris

Anybody had trouble on the front flaps, getting this stupid u bracket to stay on, when I tighten it it just works it's way off......

48 minutes ago, Bryfly said:

Anybody had trouble on the front flaps, getting this stupid u bracket to stay on, when I tighten it it just works it's way off......

I guess I'm fitting it right, the two rubber tongues on the front mud flap go either side of the chassis flange , then the u brkt goes either side of the rubber tongues then tighten the bolt.

When I fitted mine, the first went straight on and stayed there... but the second one worked it's way off as I tightened the bolt. Pushing it right up and not over-tightening the bolt seemed to work. But I haven't driven any distance since to see if it stays there! 

 

The U bracket has two 'bumps' on the inside that I suppose are intended to penetrate the plastic tongues to keep it on, but I also made sure the sliding part of the U bolt was turned so its edges would also 'cut' into the plastic tongues. 

 

Chris

9 minutes ago, CJJE said:

When I fitted mine, the first went straight on and stayed there... but the second one worked it's way off as I tightened the bolt. Pushing it right up and not over-tightening the bolt seemed to work. But I haven't driven any distance since to see if it stays there! 

 

The U bracket has two 'bumps' on the inside that I suppose are intended to penetrate the plastic tongues to keep it on, but I also made sure the sliding part of the U bolt was turned so its edges would also 'cut' into the plastic tongues. 

 

Chris

Cheers Chris, tried the sliding parts both ways, thought I had one on so did the other side, went back to the first touched it and it fell off.

I did wonder if the U brkt was supposed to go over both the plastic tongue's or just over one and the metal flange, impossible to tell from those useless pictures, currently left them off as it seems quite sturdy without, may have another go when I recover from the frustration of trying to get them to stay on🤔😉

Besides lubricating the expanding rivet with soap, I can recommend to push its pin just a millimetre in in advance, so that it will move much easier once you put it in the whole. It seems the pin is stuck at first until you get it moving at least a bit.

Hi all,

 

Thanks for the informative guides. I managed to install these on our 2021 Karoq in max 90 min without taking the wheels off. Back was super easy. For the push rivets, I recommend buying a set of plastic removal tools (like this) in addition to the soap trick. Only took maybe 30 seconds for each one. 

 

For the front wheels, I cranked the wheel all the way over to access the front drill hole area then ranked it the other way to get to the back one. Just used a cordless Ryobi drill, fit fine. Used a 6mm wood drill bit but took a while and was worried about over drilling it. The u-clamp on the underside was confusing as the supplied diagram is crap.