Sub Woofer Install

[CFBScout]

Hi all

 

Picked up my VRS on Monday, absolutely loving it so far!

 

Have already started the mods, Dashcam hard-wired in, black-pack grille and mirror caps fitted, now on to the audio.

 

I plan to fit the Kenwood powered under seat sub and am trying to source the in-line adapter made by Audiotec-Fischer PP-AC 92b but cannot find a supplier anywhere. Does anyone have a source for this please or if not is there an alternative made by a different manufacturer? I don't want to cut wires so this seems the neatest solution as the Kenwood takes speaker level inputs. 

 

Any help greatly appreciated.

[KevC_Derby]

@JohnnyType2is a good reference for Audio. Search for posts he has authored to find his install.

[JohnnyType2]

Audio control LC2i if you are fitting a sub only. It can handle up to 400W per channel (two channel) and will sit between your HU and aftermarket sub. You can do lots of cool stuff like base summing, GTO and accubass  to negate bass roll off from your stock head unit. I have the 7i which has 6 channel output and is a great bit of kit.

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/
 

Edited 28 February, 2019 by JohnnyType2

[JohnnyType2]

 

ive got a build thread explaining the LC2/7i you can use a standard VAG ISO harness for the output to the LC2i 

[CFBScout]

Thanks, I read your post and that’s a really nice install. I’m not going that far with mine though, just a small sub to add some low end fill. I can get the Kenwood plus the Fischer adaptor for £150 all in which is about all I want to spend. The Kenwood does have some adjustments via a wired remote such as the level and low pass filter cut off so think it will do what I want

 

Once that’s in I might consider updating the front door speakers but will see how it sounds. 

[Guest]

Was going to point you in the direction of the quadlock line-out adapters I use, but you're right  -  I can't seem to find any of them at the moment.

 

This will do the job https://incartec.co.uk/product/10-795-2   I think the price is a tad strong for what it is but it will save you from cutting the existing wiring.

 

Will have a look later tonight for something cheaper.

 

 

 

[CFBScout]

Brilliant! Exactly what I need thank you.

 

I found the AudioTec one for £45 so was going to not bother as you can get a system that crimps in (bit like scotch-lock connectors) but the item in your link is better I think

 

What I am struggling with though is how to release the connector at the back of the unit in the glove-box, I have the removal keys and have freed the unit but it doesn't come far enough out of the dash to let you get to the connector which is a real pain, why they couldn't just have left another 3-4" of cable slack to allow it slide right out is beyond me.

Is there a knack to releasing the quadlock connector by feel??

[JohnnyType2]

connects2 do a perfect fit T harness which will give you more leeway when refitting the Headunit. you can buy any of them on ebay and halfords also do them.

 

Its much easier to remove the glovebox to get at it from below. As i have in my thread

Edited 28 February, 2019 by JohnnyType2

[JohnnyType2]

I de pinned the redundant wiring and tidied it up with tesa tape. the 



the LC2i is around £70 posted and the kenwood is £150, the lc2i also has a subwoofer control knob. 

Edited 28 February, 2019 by JohnnyType2

[CFBScout]

Thanks, I could only get the unit out as far you are showing in your picture. With the glovebox out I can reach the harness but couldn’t work out how to disconnect it but see it has a sort of swing away bar/clip so shouldn’t be too bad

 

Got the Kenwood active powered sub online for £95 instead of £150 at Halfords, arrives tomorrow so will document how it all goes. 

 

Many thanks for all all the tips. 

[CFBScout]

OK, the sub woofer is in!

 

Took me around 2.5 hours in total, a little longer than planned as the harness adapter was not right, it didn't have enough pins/wires so rather than waste the day and order another I decided to go old school and strip/solder/insulate to tap into the speaker outputs, which I didn't really want to do but hey, it's done and it's fine.

 

I'm pleased with the install as it;as neat and unobtrusive. A little early to say how impressed I am with the sound as it needs to loosen up a bit. I wasn't blown away on the first couple of tests although ti certainly is filling in the low end, more noticeable on DAB radio than via Apple Car Play which is odd. Might need to fiddle around with the settings to get it just right but for £95 I think it's something of a bargain. If I did decide to buy something more substantial, the hard work is done as all the power, earth and speaker taps are done.

 

First job was glovebox out and remove the audio control unit using the release keys. Note the duck tape around it to stop me scratching the trim.

 

This is tricky as you need to release the connectors from below in the glovebox aperture as the unit doesn't come all the way out. Take care here as the coloured connectors are quite fragile as I discovered when one of them broke, thankfully it still went back on afterwards although the locking clip has gone. 

 

Next I removed the sill trim to give good access under the carpet to run the wires from under the passenger seat up to the fusebox area. The bonnet release handle is tricky to remove but a quick search on YouTube showed how (which basically involves using a long screwdriver to unhook a plastic clip at the back of the handle

 

 

 

 

Edited 1 March, 2019 by CFBScout

[CFBScout]

The Kenwood sub is a perfect fit under the passenger seat with no modification needed and still allowing a full range of seat movement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 1 March, 2019 by CFBScout

[CFBScout]

There is a wired remote to control the level, phase and frequency cut-off. I have just run this to the glovebox for now as don;t want it on show in the car.

 

 

 

Edited 1 March, 2019 by CFBScout

[CFBScout]

[Wangarai]

CFBScout - this is excellent! Great clear photos of positioning, very helpful. I have just purchased the Kenwood sub based in your posts. I have been very disappointed by the Octavia stereo (MIB1 Bolero); this should do the trick 

 

Was the (unsuitable) harness thr one recommended by Scot5 (please, no offence intended Scot!)?

If so I'll purchase the one Johnny recommended - it's on a well known auction site at £17.99.

 

 

[SashaGrace]

Because I’m a tight cow I’ll probably just strip and tap into the speaker wiring, too many variables. Unless a member can confirm an extension piece that is compatible ofc. 

[CFBScout]

It was very easy to splice in, used to be a car audio and alarm fitter in the 90’s so can still solder!!

 

And yes the harness recommend above was wrong, mine is an 18 MY which could be why,  the only one that I think fits is the audiotec Fischer one but at £45 I’d not bother

[Wangarai]

9 minutes ago, CFBScout said:

It was very easy to splice in, used to be a car audio and alarm fitter in the 90’s so can still solder!!

 

And yes the harness recommend above was wrong, mine is an 18 MY which could be why,  the only one that I think fits is the audiotec Fischer one but at £45 I’d not bother

Thanks, great advice 

[Guest]

2 hours ago, Wangarai said:

CFBScout - this is excellent! Great clear photos of positioning, very helpful. I have just purchased the Kenwood sub based in your posts. I have been very disappointed by the Octavia stereo (MIB1 Bolero); this should do the trick 

 

Was the (unsuitable) harness thr one recommended by Scot5 (please, no offence intended Scot!)?

 

 

No offense taken     But I did say I couldn't find the one's that I use.

 

When purchasing anything for your car, it might be a good idea to check with the seller that when it says 'Octavia' that it's specific to their particular model. e.g.   MK3 pre-facelift parts are incompatible with facelifted mk3's.  Unless you know their VIN number, recommendations become almost impossible.

 

I agree tho, excellent when someone posts pics and describes any diffiiculties encountered - it's a big help for others.

 

 

Edited 1 March, 2019 by Guest

[Wangarai]

2 minutes ago, Scot5 said:

 

No offense taken     But I did say I couldn't find the one's that I use. When purchasing anything for your car, it might be a good idea to check with the seller that when it says 'Octavia' that it's specific to a particular model. e.g.   MK3 pre-facelift parts are incompatible with facelifted mk3's.

Excellent advice  r.e. pre-facelift / facelift - thanks Scot 

[SashaGrace]

The audio wiring is the same, I have an FL radio in my PFL, should all be the same

[CFBScout]

Hmm ok, not sure then, it had far less pins/wires than mine and one of the connections in the main block was completely the wrong shape. 

 

Glad in in a way as it saved me £35 

[JohnnyType2]

i have posted part number for the correct T harness to allow you to connect to ANY speaker setup, im starting to think im blocked? 

[Wangarai]

5 hours ago, JohnnyType2 said:

i have posted part number for the correct T harness to allow you to connect to ANY speaker setup, im starting to think im blocked? 

The part number is shown in your picture of the harness(CT10SK03). I've ordered it and some tesa tape 

[Guest]

I'll give folk an example of issues I've come up against in the past - both specified as 2017 Mk3 Octavia compatible: