SashaGrace

Nice work! I’ve just sorted this on a car but the car didn’t have a CAN Terminal 15 connection on the existing clock spring so there were only 8 pins in the 16 pin connection so the wheel buttons don’t work and there is an error in Module 19. Has anyone had this issue before? Thanks 🙏

I’m not a stranger to a high miles car, my vRS had more miles than this at this age 😅 and I’ll probably continue to add about 20k miles a year on it with my current commute. I’ll definitely look at SpeakEV, I need to get to grips with the charging situation near me and around my girlfriend’s in Nottingham to make the most of the cars EV range. It does need a thorough clean and polish but it’s in really good nick tbf.

GTE arrived on Thursday, can’t wait to get stuck in with the mods on this!

Direct to fusebox. On the Amazon hub there are 2 USB’s but I only used one, I removed the VAG USB for a wireless CarPlay dongle so then I cut the insulation off the USB and put it in a donor VAG USB case and clipped it all in.

Thanks all, I’m sure I’ll still be around but I’m definitely excited for GTE life 😊

It wasn’t those so much, they are now sorted, I’m getting divorced and I don’t need such a big car and I can now charge one so I thought I’d try the GTE.

From the rear. You can get a used one for much less, will work just fine

So, this hasn’t turned into an 80 page epic like the Octy thread for all sorts of reasons but after 8 months and 12k miles, the Superb has gone. It’s being picked up next week once the windscreen is swapped and then I’m allegedly off to the world of VW as all being well I’m due to collect a Golf GTE Advance. I’ll report back on how that goes once it’s here. Thanks for everything guys, this place truly is the best.

Number 2 is the right hand side one, you need to replace the strut like for like. I bodged mine by taking the hall sensor signal from the left side lol but that was with a new loom I made, you should swap the strut.

This is not necessarily the case as you would also need to change the boot lock, remove the soft closer, change coding, change the ball joints and buy gas struts. New aftermarket or good used struts can be had quite cheaply. I retrofitted the power tailgate to my Octy and those struts are hella expensive but even then I got used ones for a not unreasonable price. I was tripping over used Superb struts from £60 a side and the power bootlid is such a boom IMO it’s worth it.

I haven’t done anything with it tbh, it’s been a bit of a pain with some electrical gremlins that Skoda need to sort for me so it’s going back soon for that and then I’ll take it from there. I have a foldable towbar all ready for it but it needs fixing before I worry about that. Fingers crossed it’ll be sorted soon.

You need to shave a tab off and then it fits

The 220 uses the 312mm front discs so 16’s fit fine. Even if you did have the 340’s from the 272/280 you could re jig so the 16 inch spare went on a rear corner.

The Sinosmart camera injects it’s own code. Put the car back to standard, untick all camera options (lowline and VPS) and soft reset radio. If all faults clear, plug the Sinosmart camera back in, soft reset radio and that should sort it.

Yeah it’s 4 wires, no extra wires need adding, switch is plug and play.

Bypass really is a bad idea IMO, get the proper loom, code the car and have the ACC radar recalibrated correctly. The car needs to be told it has the bar on it as there are 7-8 modules that need telling about the bar.

You can have LA coded, but yes, some cars have only HBA or TSR and still get the camera. On the 2020 all cars from SE Tech and above get the A5 camera for DLA but you can code Lane Assist

Get new wheels or you’ll be after 20mm front spacers to clear the calipers. I needed them that size and it was enough space. This is the downside of Skoda’s weird offsets.

If you have the A5 camera you can have lane assist coded in if it’s not fitted. All L&K models have it as standard.

You may be able to change menu style but unless you have BCM HW 5Q0937084CG or DD or one of the pair of 086 suffix ones that are compatible you won’t have the ambient lighting pin or the coding for the slider available.

As above, you need correctly adapted BCM with the ambient lighting pin for this.

When you add a module, you add it as a passenger seat module on your right hand seat so it wouldn’t mess with the keys or driver settings anyway. Not sure how much there is to add, but it’s possible.

I have the correct zdc files for Skoda 5Q4 controllers. The suffix is a model year thing, they are usually cross compatible within reason.

You also get full 3D mapping on the VC with MIB2.5 Columbus where it’s only 2D on the Amundsen and there are other benefits to the Columbus as well.

ACC calibration board and equipment to code