Active Sub = contains an amplifier in the same box as the sub

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/subwoofers/pp-8e-q --> this is a passive Sub, so requires an amplifier to use.

 

Levels: 

line level --> approximately the same as would come out of a CD player or your headphone output. That's not strictly speaking true but close enough for this. We're talking around 2V or so.

High level --> the levels that go into your speakers, so call it 12V. 

 

The subwoofer connector shown here is for a passive sub. You do not need anything else to power it. 

 

On 02/01/2020 at 18:51, rossinio said:

I may be interested in this subwoofer, I've recently got a 2019 VRS 245 and was not happy with the sound so installed https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/product-archive/amplifiers/m-5dsp. It looks like according to the manual (https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/media/pdf/a2/61/0c/BA_M-5DSP.pdf) I can attach the sub speaker inputs straight from the amp, either using line out (3.5mm) or the subwoofer outputs. I'm a bit clueless on how to power the sub though, using piggyback fuses on the fuseboard in glovebox? If so, which ones?

 

 

 

Note, though, that if you're going to use a sub, direct power from the battery is recommended. The fuse in the unit is a 30A, so that's pushing 360W in, and even at efficiency of 90%, you'll get 330W or so out. Adding the outputs - 35W x 4 + 90W, that's 230. It's limited more by the cross-sectional sizes of the wires in the glovebox rather than anything else.

 

 - Bret

I eventually decided on a Pioneer TS-WX130DA under seat sub. Power from fusebox (heated seats fuse was empty), remote from M5DSP remote out, RCA in from M5DSP line out (3.5mm).

 

It's not going to blow the windows out and I need to spend some time adjusting the DSP to accommodate it, but it's in. Temporarily under passenger seat as I didn't have time to take apart the interior to route everything to driver seat. I would very much appreciate anyone else's M5DSP setup file for the Octavia hatchback if they have one! 

The DSP tool is quite nicely described here: http://audiotec-fischer.de.dedivirt284.your-server.de/media/pdf/4c/6d/b3/ATF_Sound_Tuning_Magazine-DSP_Special_Vol2_Web59e70d008e6b1.pdf  though it's not trivial by any means. 

 

 - Bret

Yeah it's a good guide, went through that first time with the RTA etc but never managed to get it perfect. Problem is mainly harsh treble around 10k which is toned down on mine (think high freq roll off in eq). Apparently you can adjust the crossover with a different tweeter cap but not ready to take the door apart just yet. I've done a fair amount of soundproofing but not touched doors.

I'd personally be looking for a nice downward slope after 1k or so. https://sanfranciscoaudiophilesociety.com/interactive-frequency-chart-by-independent-recording-network/ has some nice hints... without seeing a 1/3 octave RTA, I'd be loath to assume that an issue is at 10kHz. I'd be looking at 1-2kHz for harshness... if the cap is 6.8µF, then the XO is a) only a 1st order and b) doesn't really do much until 5.8kHz (see http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=1). Swapping it to a 3.3µF will just up the XO frequency to around double that - heading towards 12kHz. I agree, the treble is harsh.... I've tamed it slightly in mine by dropping Bluetooth volume to medium and then turning it up. SD Card FLAC files sound better anyway.

 

Did you already turn off the speed-related volume adjustment?

 

 - Bret

Actually that's still on, although it hasn't gone more than about 40mph for a few weeks for some reason.. 

 

Just bought a UMIK-1 and am going to try out the RTA in the DSP tool again with a proper mic, also https://www.roomeqwizard.com/ if that doesn't work out. I didn't realise the head unit could do flac, that's pretty neat.

REW is awesome. I didn't check if you could export a filter for use in the M5DSP directly from REW, I know you can do this for MiniDSP stuff (which is why I have one waiting for me in the garage). REW is really good to give you a nice idea of where you're at. But I'd be careful about assuming that, for example, flat is good - it can sound lifeless - and I'd definitely pull a bunch of different music together to test any changes you make. 

 

I'm soo tempted to play with the Octavia and the C-DSP. But then I'll want the SDX10 in, then it will be an amp or three and suddenly the slippery slope is well on its way.... no money for this right now 😞

 

 - Bret

Haha the only goal is "OEM+" and for it to sound as good as a decent pair of speakers in the house no massive sub box as we need the bootspace! The DSP tool has an ideal curve in the RTA so first goal is to match that as closely as possible then try a load of music. Big difficulty is always low volume as never really have it that loud, which makes things harder.

 

It's already been enough of an expense so sticking to current equipment for now.

So if I get a comparable t harness and do a permanent and switched live I'm good to go?  

So am I right in thinking I just need the Kenwood unit and this harness recomneded by johnnytype2. https://m.ebay.ie/itm/Connects2-CT10SK03-T-Harness-for-Skoda-Octavia-Yeti-/352649017243

And

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kenwood-KSC-SW11-Underseat-Subwoofer-Radiator/dp/B00BO8O9XQ/ref=asc_df_B00BO8O9XQ/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310873119586&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17588120366153636594&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20474&hvtargid=pla-562423027424&psc=1

 

 

After that it's just a case of following wiring instructions and tapping into fuse box with dummy fuse?

 

Just want to make sure I'm not over simplifying all of this before buying as I haven't done something like this before.

You can use one of these (I did) and power is easy https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B077QY4V1N. I was too worried about start stop and car being a pain, part of the reason I went with the m5dsp but it's a lot of money tbh..

What's wrong with using just a normal dummy fuse from Halfords? Would it lose power to subwoofer when car automatically turns off when stopped?

No that sounds more sensible actually, go for it

Thanks for the response anyway. As I said I don't know much about this so just trying to do some research. 

 

But I think you can just connect to a permanently live fuse so it wouldn't matter if car is on or off.

 

Does the wiring harness in my link above look correct do you know?

Not sure about the harness but I'm pretty sure I got my DSP and wiring block (harness?) from car audio direct, can call them and make sure. Sub needs permanent live and control (blue wire). I didn't want to deal with stripping wires etc so bought the amp, mainly out of laziness..

Sorry. What's DSP?

This thing https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/product-archive/amplifiers/m-5dsp, allows a huge amount of tweaking to sound, bought because I really wasn't happy with stock sound. My old car with a cheap head unit and 2 new speakers sounded better. Will report back when I get time to actually correctly sort eq..

Ok. I understand now. Thanks. You bought amp to make all the wiring simpler. Do you reckon I'd have to be messing with wires so if I don't put in an amp in between headunit and subwoofer?

I think you'd be fine tapping into speaker wires with the sub, apparently it's super easy so don't worry too much

Sound thanks. I might just buy that stuff so and try and work it out as I go.

DSP = Digital signal processing. @rossinio has a completely capable setup that can tailor the sound to the car, whereas just adding a sub will help the bass but won't help elsewhere. As for the rest, it needs a 10A fuse, and if you leave it only on a permanent live, it will not necessarily turn itself off when the car is standing still. So I'd try and find a switched live if you can. 

 

 - Bret

Thanks. So into a fuse that turns off when engine is off. I've heard wired a dashcam in so same type of fuse as that should work. Can't remember what I used but could have been reset wiper fuse or something. 

 

Is the rest all just figuring out what wires go where? Or is there stripping wires and and messy stuff like that  involved?

The harnesses should be complete; can't guarantee it, though. Most of it should be working out which cable goes where and at least on the part of the sub, it should come with the correct cabling.

 

You will have to pull some cable from the back of the glovebox to underneath the seat - the input cable for the sub - and then the power wire for the sub, too. That wiring won't be in place and you may need to take some time to work out how you want to route it so it looks good. The input cable will also need to be spliced to the speaker wire harness somehow. Power from the fusebox should be pretty trivial, doesn't need a big cable. 

 

 - Bret

On 28/02/2019 at 01:31, JohnnyType2 said:

 

ive got a build thread explaining the LC2/7i you can use a standard VAG ISO harness for the output to the LC2i 

Hi, You have done it so nice!

I just wondering if the original canton subwoofer can be replaced by another like GAS sub which are 6.5" with same canton wire ? Or do I need something else to get it work?

 

On 24/04/2021 at 16:46, nakti said:

Hi, You have done it so nice!

I just wondering if the original canton subwoofer can be replaced by another like GAS sub which are 6.5" with same canton wire ? Or do I need something else to get it work?

 

if you are just replacing the speaker with one of a similar RMS in the same canton box then you should be ok but what would be the point in that?

Edited 26 April, 20215 yr by JohnnyType2