Can I put the timing case back on after the head comes off? Will it be held in well enough to put the engine mount back on? 

 

@Tech1e you seem to have done this before. Any advice before I get into it? 

1 hour ago, Tech1e said:

 

The engine mounting bolts to the timing case, the timing case has to come off to get the cylinder head off.

 

But you can easily bolt it back up once the heads off, only a few minutes work.

1 hour ago, mikey362 said:

 

@Tech1e you seem to have done this before. Any advice before I get into it? 

 

Done plenty.

 

Timing tools essential, use genuine sealer and renew the required bolts.

28 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

But you can easily bolt it back up once the heads off, only a few minutes work.

 

Yeah, if a support bar isn't available then that's a fair option. 

As a rough guide so far I’ve got 

 

Battery off

Air box and pipes out

Injectors and wiring removed

Coil packs, wires and spark plugs removed

Disconnect vacuum pipes and map sensor

Throttle body off

Remove intake manifold 

Remove exhaust manifold

Remove serpentine belt

Support engine remove top engine mount 

Remove timing chain cover

Rotate crank and insert timing tool 

Insert timing tool on cam 

Lock cam in place

Remove timing chain

Remove timing chain cam sprocket 

Remove cam cover

Remove cam

Unbolt and remove head (check order of bolts)

 

have i I missed anything or is there anything else that needs removing on this engine to do it? 

 

Whilst the head head is away it’ll give chance to give the engine bay a careful clean as I don’t think it ever has been lol

About right, i'd put the timing tools in first before removing anything. The crank tool is easier with the inlet manifold off though.

 

Wouldn't worry too much about the order of removing the headbolts, the engine will be stone cold anyway.

Had quite a collection of these at one point. 

Cool so you’d get the timing chain cover off and lock everything in place then strip down the rest?

 

thats pretty cool! I’m debating painting the cam cover whilst it’s off. Seen as there are no covers for these engines at it just looks abit naff lol 

10 minutes ago, mikey362 said:

Cool so you’d get the timing chain cover off and lock everything in place then strip down the rest?

 

 

 

Might as well time it up and lock it off first.

Cool forgot put in about dropping the coolant out lol 

Edited 12 June, 20197 yr by mikey362

Obviously make sure the crank bolt is replaced and torqued correctly or the chain will slip and its dead.

3 minutes ago, Tech1e said:

Obviously make sure the crank bolt is replaced and torqued correctly or the chain will slip and its dead.

 

Yes I’ve ordered a Haynes so I’ll have all the right torque settings to hand.

 

Am I to assume that’s happened to vehicles you’ve seen? Lol

Just now, mikey362 said:

 

Am I to assume that’s happened to vehicles you’ve seen? Lol

 

Yeah there was a recall on them many moons ago.

Am I right in thinking number 8 in this diagram being the bolt in question? 

 

 

 

No surprised there was a recall haha 

Edited 12 June, 20197 yr by mikey362

Yes thats it.

12 hours ago, Tech1e said:

make sure the crank bolt is replaced and torqued correctly

 

There's quite a mess of info about this torque it seems.

Original Skoda info from 2002 says 90Nm + 90° turn, a later edition from 2011 says 150Nm + 180° turn.

I'm sure I've got a document somewhere where both of these appear in different places referring to the same bolt.

workshop-manuals.com seems to have a mixture of the two on different pages and a nasty half-and-half thing where it says - contradicting itself - "150Nm +180° (¼ turn)": 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/power_unit/12/40;_47_kw_mpi_engine/enginecrankshaft_group_pistons/removing_and_installing_gasket_rings_and_flywheel/

 

I'm sure I read somewhere that the bolt had changed too, and it appears that N90987302 superseded N90987301 in 2007 , does this correspond to the different torque setting? i.e. for N90987301 - use 90Nm + 90° turn; for N90987302 - use 150Nm + 180° turn? 

Edited 13 June, 20197 yr by Wino

Not sure, I know that 180 turn is an ass, the counter hold tool is huge..lol

I bet.

That's a massive difference, they must be completely different bolts, 90 + 90 is not that much more than a wheel bolt, 150 + 180 is huge and horrible, I'd be tempted to use a positive stop for tightening that.

Okay that’s going to get confusing! 😂😦🤣 So are we saying depending which bolt I get depends on how tight I should do it? 

 

Any advice for actually getting it that tight without rotating the crank? 

 

 

The bolt has been superseded. You can't get the original bolts now, they weren't up to the job and slipped.

 

Not sure how you are going to stop the crank rotating without the correct/suitable counter hold tool.

I know my mate will probably have one at his garage I just don’t know if it’ll fit. Will have to wait and see lol 

 

I shouldn’t be okay with it but I’ll spend £50 on the right bar if needs be. Still better than paying £750/£800 for someone else to do it haha

Edited 13 June, 20197 yr by mikey362

Sorry guys next question what sealeants do you recommend for the timing chain case and cam cover? 

 

Also loctite threadlock is it a good call on the crank bolt just to be extra safe?

11 minutes ago, mikey362 said:

Sorry guys next question what sealeants do you recommend for the timing chain case and cam cover? 

 

Also loctite threadlock is it a good call on the crank bolt just to be extra safe?

 

I personally prefer Blue Hylomar but you may be more comfortable with an RTV Silicone sealant.

 

It shouldn't be necessary to use threadlock at that tightening torque but you can if you want to be certain of that bolt never coming undone again.

 

 

Personally i'd go with genuine sealant as its not scary expensive (different sealer for the timing case, cam cover and the sump iirc). Seen so many bodged up with incorrect sealer and **** oil out everywhere.

Edited 13 June, 20197 yr by Tech1e

I know it would be different sealant I was just looking at different sealeants for those particular parts but I’ll go for the manufactures stuff if you say it’s more than good enough lol. 

 

Next job is to find some engine paint