My fabia 1.4 16v auto has started cuttting out when pulling up at junctions, has anyone else had this problem and how did they fix it. Car has had new cat and lambda sensors fitted. Could it be the battery. Car is starting ok. Thanks

 

Any codes showing?

 

Look first at what has been changed/disturbed just before the fault showed up.

 

If coil packs fail the car would drop cylinders but possibly not stall as the cars ECU compensates (this happened to my Octavia when the coil pack failed - no power but it didn't stall!)

 

Has the EGR valve been disturbed during the catalyst change - this could cause stalling if stuck in an open position

 

 

 

 

Edited 4 July, 20197 yr by bigjohn

Inspecting the brake servo vacuum hose for cracks/splits by eye and by feel is a free check that's always worth doing unless it's been replaced in the recent past.

They tend to split at the ends of the hard plastic sections.

This photo's from a Mk4 Golf, but the materials and designs are similar.

 

EGR sticking is a good shout too. Do you have emissions warning light on?

 

Edited 4 July, 20197 yr by Wino

No lights on, will look at the servo hose where is the EGR valve situated 

Thanks

EGR is just to the right of the exhaust manifold, as you look from the front into the bay.

Unlikely to be that if no fault lights are on though (unless the fault light has been nobbled).

 

Do you see the 'engine picture' warning light when ignition is switched on?

Yes engine light works fine shows when ignition is on, car still has plenty of power when driven but has just started to cut out when slowing down for junctions. The cat was changed 10 weeks ago, the only thing that has been done in the last week is a service

 

Doubt the EGR is to blame then.

Why was the cat changed? The rear one or the mani-cat?

Manifold cat it was rattling inside, we have only had the car 3 months.Trying to return under warranty bought for my Daughter who has learning problems and can only drive automatic

If the cars just been serviced the auto box may have been over filled resulting in stalling, try popping it in neutral before you stop and see if it still stalls.

Only engine service not gearbox so don't think that is the problem. Thanks for your comment 

@Jakedog - OK, not a Skoda, but my dad once had this problem on an auto and the  issue was the tickover was set 50 (fifty) rpm too low.

Thanks for the reply, but tickover seems ok

14 minutes ago, Jakedog said:

Thanks for the reply, but tickover seems ok

That's the thing; auto boxes need a slightly higher tickover than manuals to deal with the extra load of the torque converter.

20 hours ago, Wino said:

Doubt the EGR is to blame then.

Why was the cat changed? The rear one or the mani-cat?

Wino do you think it could be the fuel filter, checked servo pipe seems fine, but may change it just to be sure

Fuel filter would be much more likely to affect high power running than idling. Plus I've virtually never heard of a problem on these cars that turned out to be fuel filter related.

Could do with VCDS scanning to see if there are fault codes lurking.

Its not happening all the time only now and again then the car seems to be hunting a bit when I have restarted. Thats what made me think its fuel related. Any thoughts on this

Maybe look for splits in, or loose end fittings of the breather pipe that comes up from the oil separator to just below the throttle body?

Do you think I should check all the breather pipes from air box as well, going to fit new fuel filter they are only about a tenner may cure it got nothing to lose

 

May as well.

Thanks  for your help Wino, will check every bit of rubber in the engine bay and hope I get lucky

Hey I had the same problem where the car would stall when idling at traffic lights etc,

 

I found that the problem was this oxygen pipe that apparently supplies oxygen to the breaks,

 

The bit which connects at the back of the engine was split, so I put tape over it temporarily, but eventually I went to a garage and replaced it with a new pipe for £25.

 

Now it works like a dream. 

It supplies vacuum to the brake servo.

Thanks for all the help, have checked all the pipes in the engine bay and could not find any that were split or cracked. Refitted the airbox and the problem seems to have gone maybe just a bit of muck in the system or pipe not pushed on to the airbox. Fingers crossed that its all ok now

The problems back any suggestions, thinking of calling the AA. Not showing any faults on code reader