V157 EGR Nozzle Mod to Reduce Clagged Valve OFFICIAL FACTORY MOD

[3T51704x4]

23 hours ago, chimaera said:

I have a copy of the first issue of the bulletin downloaded from erWin which is dated May 2017, so well after production concluded. It also lists nothing under the 'Production Change'  heading. The bulletin is TPI 2047723 for anyone that wants to find it.

Sweet, only problem with what you say is that we have been cleaning these on group vehicles since 2013 with an internal bulletin which you won’t get hold of via Erwin. 

In fact when they get published, the date published to that medium will be the date on the document, not when it was available via HST2 which you will never see. That is kept back from most people/publications.

I looked up one for Audi Q3 with EA189, the published date was 2018 with update to use an ultrasonic bath. But this was first seen years ago.

Edited 11 July, 2019 by 3T51704x4

[Jdeath]

Hi, do you know which fuse blows when the valve sticks?, can't find any info on mk 2 octavia, only mk 1 and mk 3.

Thanks 

[3T51704x4]

It’s a 15A fuse in the SB fuse box. (By the battery unless you have a 3.6).

Not checked CFD to see if my Skoda car has it, but you will know as the a/c won’t work and no power to V157. If they are working you are good.

 

[Jdeath]

Hi, do you know which fuse blows when the valve sticks?, can't find any info on mk 2 octavia, only mk 1 and mk 3.

Thanks 

[Jdeath]

Hi, my issue is I have the engine light on, vag reader said V157 open curcuit. On inspection the flap was jammed. After cleaning with carb cleaner I can now see it working on engine shut off (closes for a couple of seconds, then opens again), but after clearing codes the engine light reappears shortly after. Fault code is still V157 motor. 

[Jdeath]

Air con fan doesn't come on (vagcom reader says needs regas, and apparently won't come on if that's the case), I have the climatronic model, the aircon blows cold in cabin, but not icy, another reason I am trying to find the shared fuse. No mention of it in owners manual. I don't have the fuses above battery as on mk 1,all fuses in box next to battery are fine. 

[Breezy_Pete]

Year and engine code are extremely helpful when trying to find circuit info.

Supply those and I'll have a go at finding the fuse number for you.

I have a strong suspicion that the fuse for the V157 supply will be in the under-bonnet fusebox though.

Edited 16 July, 2019 by Wino

[Tech1e]

56 minutes ago, Wino said:

Year and engine code are extremely helpful when trying to find circuit info.

Supply those and I'll have a go at finding the fuse number for you.

I have a strong suspicion that the fuse for the V157 supply will be in the under-bonnet fusebox though.

 

Usually number 5 or 6 from memory 

[Jdeath]

Variant ACBXEX01

Registered 19/10/2006

Thanks 

[3T51704x4]

Your vehicle is different to mine and this mod is not for your engine code, but any Audi, Skoda, Seat, VW fitted with an EA189 CR engine.

The V157 fitted to your engine used to fail and were replaced on a regular basis, even without gumming up with carbon, the gears used to strip, (you can take them apart and turn the broken gear 180 degrees to use the other side as a temp repair) I used to have a new one kicking around in the loft.

The SB fuse box which is by the battery on my car under a large plastic cover.

If you can see your flap working now you cleaned it, the fuse can't be blown as confirmed by your checking in the under bonnet fuse box by the battery. (not on the battery)

Your fuse should be on SB24 10A for earlier cars. But would need your VIN to get the correct CFD for your car to know exactly.

The red arrow points towards the front of the car, SB24 10A is marked in red.

Edited 16 July, 2019 by 3T51704x4

[Jdeath]

Thanks, 

This fuse is fine. as the V157 motor is working, I cannot understand why the engine light comes back on after being cleared. 

Vin is

TMBGS21Z572040137 by the way, 

Thanks again to everyone who has replied. 

[chimaera]

15 minutes ago, Jdeath said:

Thanks, 

This fuse is fine. as the V157 motor is working, I cannot understand why the engine light comes back on after being cleared. 

Vin is

TMBGS21Z572040137 by the way, 

Thanks again to everyone who has replied. 

What's the exact fault code that you're getting?

[Breezy_Pete]

20 hours ago, Jdeath said:

Variant ACBXEX01

Registered 19/10/2006

Thanks 

Sorry, missed this yesterday.

I'm going to take a stab at your engine code being BXE, cos those three letters appear in the variant code you've posted, but I'm not sure. See if BXE appears on your build sticker.

 

If it is, then fuse 24 (10 Amp) appears to be the relevant one, but as you say, if the thing works at all, feed and earth are probably intact.

 

Check (for breakage) the other two wires in the vicinity of the connector to V157 though, I think that connection can easily get strained/pulled.

Pin 3 - purple/grey and pin 4 - purple/yellow. Both go to engine ECU, pins 60 & 25 respectively.

 

[Jdeath]

Thanks all, 

This is the original readout attached 

[Tech1e]

[Jdeath]

Thanks, I'd googled that, I don't have any shudder at shutoff,which makes me think the value is working, and as I say, I can see the flap closing for a few seconds on shutoff

[3T51704x4]

So live and earth are ok as the motor is working, sounds like the feedback to ecu causing the DTC.

Either going to be continuity interrupted by broken strands within the PVC of the wire OR a knackered V157.

My money is on the 157 as I’ve changed loads, but I would check all the wires with a great tool I have. It sends a pulsed signal down the wire and you follow the wiring loom bundle with a remote receiver, it tells you if wire is shorted or open circuit and when it gets to the problem area, it stops making a noise to allow you to pinpoint broken wires within the harness. Got me out of frustrating intermittent faults so many times.

[Jdeath]

Hi all, 

Checked and cleaned the plug with electrical cleaner, no obvious broken wires. Can see the flap working every time ignition on/off. Cleared codes, light back on within a day. Think I'll just leave it as it's obviously working. 

Thanks again for all the suggestions and info. 

[PipH]

When my sons V157 failed, although still drove perfect, the car wouldn't do a regen.

So if you get the DPF light come up you will know the reason why.

Edited 23 July, 2019 by PipH

[Tech1e]

Just now, PipH said:

When my sons V157 failed the car wouldn't do a regen.

So if you get the DPF light come up you will know the reason why.

 

Are you saying the reason a DPF light comes on is because V157 has failed? It's certainly a reason, but by no means the only reason.

[PipH]

2 minutes ago, Tech1e said:

 

Are you saying the reason a DPF light comes on is because V157 has failed? It's certainly a reason, but by no means the only reason.

No, I'm just saying that a failed V157 will probably stop the car from attempting a regen.

 

I realise there are plenty of other reasons for the DPF light comming up.

 

Just wanted to warn Jdeath of the probability of further problems if he doesn't get it fixed.

[3T51704x4]

Whenever the EDC (engine diesel control) light is on, and/or the glow plug light flashing for whatever reason the DPF regeneration will be disabled which can lead to the filter becoming so loaded with soot, a normal static regen will not be possible. (There are ways around it) This will result in the network workshops replacing the filter.

Also if you run the fuel tank at around 1/4 or below, the system will inhibit a regen.

Taxi Driver’s who don’t own the car only put enough fuel in for their shift causing constant DPF regen issues. Once they are advised to use 1/4 tank as their empty, the regen issues were resolved.

[Jdeath]

Hi, 

No dpf on my car. 

Thanks 

[3T51704x4]

25 minutes ago, Jdeath said:

Hi, 

No dpf on my car. 

Thanks 

Sweet! Of course I forgot it wasn’t the same engine as mine, still good info for anyone else  who does have DPF.

[Shaunieboy]

This should really be a sticky