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V157 EGR Nozzle Mod to Reduce Clagged Valve OFFICIAL FACTORY MOD


3T51704x4

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It can cause the glow plug light to flash and engine to enter limp home IF the valve gets stuck due to carbon build up, this was very common on the Audi Q5 four or so years ago.

 cleaning it prior to that stage as preventative maintenance is a good plan so you don’t get caught out, especially at this time of year if planning a trip abroad so it doesn’t spoil the holiday.

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On 05/07/2019 at 23:21, 3T51704x4 said:

Took some photos during a recent clean of the intake manifold flap valve V157 which was not as bad as others I've seen. The nozzle coats the valve causing reduced movement or even sticking and results in the glow plug light flashing and limp home mode.

Logged codes in address 01 include P012100 and or P211100 and or P211200.

While your valve is soaking in your solution of choice take the time to remove the EGR nozzle to the plastic inlet manifold and rotate it 180 degrees. The nozzle body is mechanically coded (only fits one way round) and needs to be modified with a round file to allow it to fit correctly. Later cars have this done from the factory now, but to check to see if yours has been done, remove the boost pipe and use a mirror or take a photo looking up into the valve.  If you can see a slot facing you, it has not been modified yet.

IMG_2868.JPG

 

 

Remove 2x T30 from the pipe at the cylinder head

 

 

IMG_2877.JPG

 

 

Incidentally, if your EGR valve sticks open, the engine will peter out like it's run out of fuel. These are the two bolts to undo and slide a cut to shape drinks can (width of the pipe diameter folded over in two for added durability) down between the gasket and the head , tighten the bolts up again, this then blocks the EGR gas from choking the engine and allows it to start as an emergency repair to get it back home or into a garage.

Then undo the clamp to the nozzle and remove the EGR pipe.

Another 2x T30 and you can withdraw the nozzle.

 

 

IMG_2879.JPG

 

this happened to me twice now...i have done the 180 degree rotation and cleaned the throttle body...happened again so i bought a used throtte body off ebay..cleaned that. worked fine for 6 weeks or so

 

car cut out again yestderday..RAC couldnt get it running ...said it was compression issue

 

but i did the makeshift d.i.y EGR blank plate using a coke can made 3 layers of it...got the car running with a squirt of easy start

 

So am i right in saying the EGR keeps randony getting stuck open

 

and is it not good to drive the car with that plate in place? what will happen ?

 

i was pointed towards an EGR simulator kit by a member on here for approx £120 which gives a blanking plate and the simulator plugs into the car to make it think its still there and working...rather than map it out i guess..would this be a better soltion?

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On 18/04/2021 at 11:50, bimma123 said:

 

this happened to me twice now...i have done the 180 degree rotation and cleaned the throttle body...happened again so i bought a used throtte body off ebay..cleaned that. worked fine for 6 weeks or so

 

car cut out again yestderday..RAC couldnt get it running ...said it was compression issue

 

but i did the makeshift d.i.y EGR blank plate using a coke can made 3 layers of it...got the car running with a squirt of easy start

 

So am i right in saying the EGR keeps randony getting stuck open

 

and is it not good to drive the car with that plate in place? what will happen ?

 

i was pointed towards an EGR simulator kit by a member on here for approx £120 which gives a blanking plate and the simulator plugs into the car to make it think its still there and working...rather than map it out i guess..would this be a better soltion?

Sounds like you have the common EGR fault which is NOT the same fix as the thread is talking about. EGR bearing fails causing the gears to strip or burn the motor out look here:

 which is why you still have problems. My advice would be to replace the EGR valve rather than introducing other problems.

Edited by 3T51704x4
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Thanks mate, yes it appeared to be EGR was sticking open and causing car to cut off/stall and then not start.  I bought an EGR simulator kit off ebay with a blanking plate, fitted it to effectively delete the EGR (without map so the simulator still tricks car into thinking EGR present and working )

 

so far so good

 

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  • 2 years later...
On 01/01/2021 at 21:20, rover220 said:

I'm yet to carry out this mod but want to be sure that I'm doing it correctly. When complete should the hole in the nozzle face the engine or face the boost pipe? 

It should point towards the engine. But before you do the mod, the adapter pipe is only cut out to fit one way, which is away from engine/manifold intake and towards the throttle flaps. So, when you have modded, make sure the opening is facing towards engine/manifold

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