Jump to content

Kodiaq RS DPF for city drivers


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, chrisluciofg said:

how much of a hassle will the DPF be in my RS ? i hardly ever venture on the motorway, and when I do, it's typically for 5 mins only . any alternatives to taking long purposeless drives ?

Sound like you’ve bought the wrong car.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It takes about 10 - 12 minutes to do the burning cycle.: Usually you don`t notice the procedure, but when you park and all hundred (well, it seems so) fans under the bonnet keep spinning, it`s time to take an extra trip. Go to full manual, keep revs at 2000 - 2500 rpm and after 10 mins drive you are done.

Not a problem to get worried about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How long are your journeys? So long as you’re going for 25-30 minute long drives, even around town the DPF will regenerate just fine by itself without needing to go for a pointless drive or force it to drive around at high RPM. 

Edited by MrTrilby
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess it depends where you drive too, I changed to petrol because my town driving has gradually become more stop than go. Where a few years ago if you avoided morning and evening rush hours you could zip across town fine now there is hardly ever flowing traffic. I doubt they regen at tick over RPM when queueing at lights and junctions. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the problem with stop/start driving through cities and towns is that in winter the car won't even start regenerating until you are well into the journey and you get some heat in the engine, then it might take another 20-30 mins

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Modern DPF's are miles better than they used to be.

 

Unless all of your journey's are really short you should be OK.

 

All engines, petrol and diesel, benefit from a longer run now and then so be sure to take it out as often you're able to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

in winter the car won't even start regenerating until you are well into the journey and you get some heat in the engine

 

Not so sure about this, as DPF has it`s own burner. DPF temperature is about 300  - 400 C degrees but gets to 620 C  when buring. But of course you have to do some driving before the DPF gets to its normal temperature.

Get an ELM 127 OBD dongle and VAG DPF Android app to learn about all this burning process behaviour.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Basically after they have lost the newness they become a PITA if you go a week or 2 of trips of a few miles day after day or even night time, 

like not even enough to get the engine oil to an indicated 50*oC. so like 6 or 7 miles.

 

Drinks diesel and sips AdBlue and not getting regenerations, blocked DPF light illuminating.

Edited by Roottootemoot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, VRS_White_Hatch said:

 I doubt they regen at tick over RPM when queueing at lights and junctions. 

 

This is not true. They regenerate at idle. You can tell when they’re doing it as the idle speed is increased to around 1kRPM and the stop start is disabled. 

It will warm up pretty quickly even in winter to regenerate - the modern system in the Kodiaq doesn’t rely on getting the oil temperature hot - it just needs to get the exhaust catalyst hot enough (which is why the RPM increases). Hence why a 25 minute drive in stop start city traffic is fine for regenerating. The fuel economy will be terrible as it’s effectively burning extra fuel solely to heat the catalyst, but that’s a different issue. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting, I thought the increased tick over just about kept things hot enough for a regen when you got going again. My last diesel did increase the tick over but you only saw the smoke from incinerating particles when you had higher revs. When there is a regen forced by software what does it rev at? Anyway lets hope you're right, I used to have to sit and rev my Saab and just waste fuel forcing a regen. 

 

I like - no love - the way powerful diesels drive. I just think the technology has got too complex and the green lobby too powerful to risk buying one at the moment. The first city that bans diesel cars and the floodgates will open.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It does not matter that the oil is getting up to temp but that is just an idication of how short a time the engine was running and working, and you stop and it stinks like kerosene.I have used a VW Bi Turbo Pickup. It was worse than my 2.0 TDI SCR DSG.   Hense now i have an old 3.2 Diesel Auto that is happy doing trips of a few miles and still does those and gets 30 miles out of a gallon.

 

25 or 30 minutes of the engine running is a different story, that is not an issue.

Edited by Roottootemoot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does the Skoda system have an injector in the exhaust system or inject diesel on the exhaust stroke? Somehow the oil used to get overfull when my Saab had done a few regens. I was doing a lot of short trips I might add! I had to do an oil and filter change to get it to regen last winter, the high oil level was knocking it into limited performance and it wouldn't rev high enough to regen. Most annoying. But like I said, 450nm torque from a 1.9 twin turbo diesel is very nice when it works. Twin turbo's really do provide shove from just over 1000 rpm to the redline, very broad spread of power. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, VRS_White_Hatch said:

Does the Skoda system have an injector in the exhaust system or inject diesel on the exhaust stroke? Somehow the oil used to get overfull when my Saab had done a few regens. I was doing a lot of short trips I might add! I had to do an oil and filter change to get it to regen last winter, the high oil level was knocking it into limited performance and it wouldn't rev high enough to regen. Most annoying. But like I said, 450nm torque from a 1.9 twin turbo diesel is very nice when it works. Twin turbo's really do provide shove from just over 1000 rpm to the redline, very broad spread of power. 

 

Increased engine oil sump levels can be as a consequence of too many interrupted DPF regenerations (i.e. turning the engine off midway through the regeneration process as the car is injecting extra fuel into the catalyst to increase the heat in the DPF).

 

It's a wholly undesirable situation as the engine oil is being diluted with unburnt diesel fuel, which is not a good lubricator, so the more the engine oil becomes diluted the more likely engine wear rates will be accelerated.

 

Another unfortunate consequence of doing short journey's in a DPF-equipped diesel. The car will try to regenerate more often increasing the likelihood of you interrupting them, so it becomes a vicious circle which ultimately ends up in the car breaking down.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree completely with olderman1 and KennyR. What on earth did you by the diesel vRS model for, your type of usage is not particularly compatible with dfp's (your dealer probably should have advised you of this). You probably would have been better of with a Sportline or L&K with the 2.0tsi engine and add a few options to make it "like" a vRS. Only thing I might advise you to do now is use one of those diesel additives to give your dpf a chance. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a lot of good information in another thread:  https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/301020-my-new-diesel-smells-like-burning-rubber-andor-the-fan-stays-on-after-engine-is-turned-off/page/4/

 

 

22 hours ago, chrisluciofg said:

i hardly ever venture on the motorway, and when I do, it's typically for 5 mins only . any alternatives to taking long purposeless drives ?

 

If I am understanding the info on the other thread correctly, it seems that driving normally on the motorway is not going to help the condition of the DPF, as the revs at 70 mph in top gear are not enough for a regen.

 

However, it is all very complicated and confusing, and I doubt that any customer taking delivery of a new car would receive a full and proper explanation from the dealer, and in many cases would not be able to get their head around it if they received such an explanation.

 

I suspect that most people reading what has been said on the other thread would have serious doubts about whether a diesel car was for them, no matter how long or short their normal journeys.

 

Traditionally the advice about diesel cars has been that they cost more than petrol cars to buy, but cost less for fuel, so need to cover a high mileage to be justified on a cost basis.  A prospective buyer of a modern diesel being told that they need to do a lot of miles might have the traditional advice in mind and not realise that they are receiving critical advice about the DPF.

 

I have to admit that most of what I have learned about DPFs has been acquired after the purchase of my Octavia Scout rather than before.  I decided that the latest Scout was the car for me, and there was no petrol version.  I found an ex demonstrator at a fantastic price, and as it was in Grimsby I decided to do the deal over the phone and have it delivered to Norwich.  There was nothing said about the DPF when I ordered the car, and very little if anything at the handover.

 

I guess it could all have gone horribly wrong, but after almost 4 years and over 30,000 miles it has been fine.  No warning lights.  I have noticed the burning smell and fans indicating an interrupted regen a couple of times, but nothing to worry about.  Normally I do short trips to the shops on weekdays and Sunday, and a longer drive in the countryside on Saturdays, with a long run up to Scotland for a 2 week touring holiday once a year.

 

To me it seems like a bit of a Catch 22, as driving in a way that might facilitate a regen is also going to consume more diesel, thus generating more soot.

 

8 hours ago, silver1011 said:

Increased engine oil sump levels can be as a consequence of too many interrupted DPF regenerations (i.e. turning the engine off midway through the regeneration process as the car is injecting extra fuel into the catalyst to increase the heat in the DPF).

 

It's a wholly undesirable situation as the engine oil is being diluted with unburnt diesel fuel, which is not a good lubricator, so the more the engine oil becomes diluted the more likely engine wear rates will be accelerated.

I would like to think that this will not happen with the Skodas, in view of the burning process that takes place when the regen is interrupted.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.