hi,

i have a Yeti 2.0l diesel and the warning lights for dpf just came on then it went into 'limp mode'. Once i realised what was going on, i purchased a fuel additive for cleaning the filter; I am running the car as suggested - higher revs than normal & long runs..How do i get out of 'limp mode'?

 

Thanks,

 

jeremy

 

How long were you running with DPF light on before putting the fuel additive in?
Was the DPF light the only warning light on?
What additive did you put in?
How many miles since the additive added?

Hi Urrell,

 

Thanks for responding.

DPF light on for 3 days but hardly used the car.

Both lights on - pre heat & filter

Read up the subject then purchased cleaning product - Bardahl particle filter cleaner (https://medias-norauto.fr/bat/465988_BAT_FR.pdf) 

put liquid in tank ( 30ltrs fuel as suggested) and have run the car @50kms at increased revs.

Lights still on but i think i need to run the car more as not used much fuel therefore not enough 'cleaning effect'...

 

best,

 

jeremy

 

 

"DPF light on for 3 days but hardly used the car. "

 

I think that may be your problem and hope I'm wrong in saying it's now a garage job. My dpf light came on once in 5 years and 37K of Yeti ownership. I parked it on the drive and left it until I could go out on a run. The light cleared within a few miles and I never saw it again.

 

Colin

As above really.

If it's not clearing by driving, then at least you will need the limp mode cleared followed by the garage doing a "bench-test" dpf regen via diagnostic computer on site at the garage. 

ok - thanks guys..

I will run it until the fuel is used up.

Trouble is here in France, the skoda agent will almost definately suggest replacing the DPF. 

Someone told me that the 'error' & 'limp mode' can be reset fairly easily..

 

I will keep you informed.

 

Thanks again,

 

Jeremy

 

 

49 minutes ago, Calla123 said:

the skoda agent will almost definately suggest replacing the DPF. 

Really they should definitely do that computer controlled dpf regen first. They should not by default just change the dpf, I would have thought changing the dpf should be a last resort. 

Are you still under warranty? 

Edited 7 October, 20196 yr by Gmac983

Most expensive solution = first resort in France.

4 hours ago, Calla123 said:

Both lights on - pre heat & filter

How long was the first on before the second came on and it went into limp mode?

I believe as 2 lights on it will need to be plugged into diagnostics and manually put into a regen.

Edited 7 October, 20196 yr by Urrell

Hi Guys,

 

Many thanks for all your comments - very informative..

 

I'm not too slick on forums so forgive my general responses..

 

The symptomes all happened fairly quickly & to be honest, the yeti is a 'runabout' car that i bought on a whim. I am just realy getting used to using it for the odd trip - actually really liking it! 

I didn't really pay much attention to the warning lights initially until I saw the 'filter' light; I presumed that the lights come & go just like the tyre pressure one did...My normal car has loads of lights & stuff flashing initially then all disappears.

 

Gmac983 - your comment is  a good one.

 

J.R - I hear you!   Don't you love the French!  Whatch the rugby next weekend!!

 

Urrell - Actually the pre-heat (flashing) & filter light came on together.. The 'engine' light had been on for a few days but I had no idea what it meant as I had checked the basics such as oil, coolant, etc..

 

Here is a thought - a buddy can lend me a Launch OBD2 Scanner to verify problems. Apparently can reset or resolve many issues. What do you think?! Danger Island or the way to go?

 

Best,

 

Jeremy

 

Anybody that drives with warning lights on like you have is going to face a large bill when or if the problems shouting at you come to a head.

Fair answer Urrell, but not that simple...

 

Think about the scenario - Notice lights so inform myself via Google, etc. (once I got off the road heading back home..) as to what they mean. Everyone & their mothers says to keep driving and burn the filter clean..I do so + add cleaner fluid. Car starting fine, running fine even if sluggish due to limp mode kicking in. Oil, water, pressure & temps good so not too concerning, given the many other unrelated and probably more important issues I have to deal with on a daily basis..

FYI - Bought the car 2nd hand from a garage that know me actually for my kids really so that they can get used to stick shift. Car came with full service history (skoda serviced) - Car is 7 years old. BTW -  Learning curve for me as have only driven Range Rovers for last 20 years (and still do..).

 

No worries - I was just hoping for a few positive pointers from fellow Skoda owners...

 

 

 

Standard OBDII readers will only give you generic fault codes and not go further down the chain so to speak, that said the generic ones are those that concern emissions and/or generate a MIL light so it could well give you the info that you need in this instance.

Positive pointer, it will need a regen manually initiated at a garage not an OBDII dongle.
Before long it will need a new DPF because if it cannot regenerate it will block and it's then knackered.

Thanks for the comments.

Probably heading to Skoda agent soon but will hopfully avoid a replacement unit - just a regen.

 

Will keep you posted.

Generally, I wouldn't expect the car to enter limp mode when requesting a regen drive...

- Typically, you should get DPF filter light on if it needs a regen drive and no other warning lights

- The next stage would be the DPF filter, engine and glow plug lights, at this point it needs a service/forced regen using diagnostic equipment

- The final stage is when too much soot is in the DPF and it can no longer safely regen so will need replacing

 

Given it started with the engine light, it sounds like a sensor may have failed preventing DPF regens. By continuing to drive the car, you may also need a new DPF 😕

 

Personally, I wouldn't drive it anywhere until you've checked the fault codes or at least checked the current soot loading of the DPF.

 

Not the most positive of posts, but the DPF might still be savable although every drive makes that less likely...

Hi Langers2k

 

many thanks for your opinion - i will follow your advice.

 

best,

 

jeremy

 

Other questions. 

 

Were your cooling fans running regularly when switching off. In which case regens were interrupted.

Has your engine oil level increased, this shows the excess diesel being pumped into the engine to facilitate the regens has run down the bores into the engine and diluted the oil.  You may need an oil change as well as other remedies outlined above. 

I see you live in Monaco, does your car do lots of short journeys?

Last year I was looking at changing cars. I looked at a diesel Discovery Sport, a car with known dpf problems. The dealer said I needed to do at least a 25 mile dual carriageway run once a week! At least the guy was being honest. 

Talking about honest, check out the Daily Telegraph motoring correspondent “Honest John”. He has a lot of information on this subject. 

 

https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/search/?q=Dpf+regeneration

 

I had 109,000 miles on my Yeti (in 9 years) and only started having problems after having had “the fix” and with my driving pattern substantially changing. When the trust building measure guarantee ran out I bought a petrol  Karoq that better suits my current under 8000 miles a year. 

 

For people doing lots of short journeys dpfs are flawed technology.

 

Hope you get your problems sorted OK. 

 

Tom

 

Edited 8 October, 20196 yr by Sanqhar

Hi Tom,

 

thanks for this..

 

to answer your questions -

• Fans were running a little i believe but didn't really take notice; Since adding the 'cleaning' product to the fuel, and doing higher rev runs, i notice a slight smell of burning so presume regen in progress
• Oil - will check it asap
• Car has been used for longish runs on autoroute & not really city driving ( electric bike or Twizy!) . When I drive the car, i push along so somewhat puzzled by coking up of the filter. To be honest, I have never thought about the dpf before; My main car is a V8 diesel with sophisticated engine control system that has never troubled me..
• the Yeti is a cool car for my kids - they can drive to the country house ( 40kms away) without looking too flash! My wife loves it!
• I will borrow the OBD2 discussed earlier & see what the faults are..

More soon no doubt!

 

best,

 

jeremy

 

Another thought, use the best quality diesel, these have added detergents that help. 

Another indicator of a regen taking place is a slightly higher tickover, although I never noticed it on my Yeti. The only indicator I had was the fan running when switching off. In these cases I immediately restarted and went for a run (6 to 10 miles), keeping the revs up by using a lower gear, to burn off any excess diesel. 

During he trust building measure period my dealer had to fit a new exhaust gas recirculation valve, a £800 to £1000 job on the Yeti. Once the TBM period expired I wasn’t prepared to take the risk of dpf problems so got rid of the car. 

 

Tom

Thanks Tom

 

I use good diesel always..

 

Starting to think it is a malfunctioning sensor as no real indications of a problem before all went South...

Awiting the OBD2 to connect up & diagnose before visit to Skoda dealer in Nice who are all related to cattle rustlers..!

 

j

 

And I have used supermaket diesel, cheapest price for ever. Over 150k in Yeti's now over 10 years and never a warning light or hiccup.

Its incorrect use for a diesel, lots of short trips or probably the fix if applied causing these issues. (Or possibly a failed sensor)

 

So assuming an 8p difference per litre between supermarket fuel and a so called premium brand, that is a conservative £1200 saved just whilst driving Yeti's over last 10 years; and some of you even pay extra ovr this to pour snake oil in!

 

 

Thanks Ken,

 

The previous owner used the car in the mountains ( low Alps) so plenty of driving - My wife has been doing 2;5 hr autoroute runs with it prior to the issue so I don't think 'city driving' is an issue..

 

My money is on a sensor failure..

 

A voir..

 

j

 

Unfortunately now you're in limp-home mode nothing you do as the driver can rectify the situation without the help of a garage. It needs plugging into a diagnostics machine and a forced regeneration needs carrying out.

 

When the Engine Management Light (EML) came on...

 

 

...this was the car telling you something was wrong and it needs your urgent attention. As mentioned earlier the EML was probably signalling to you that one of the DPF sensors was malfunctioning. The issue here is that with a defective sensor the DPF is no longer working i.e. it isn't regenerating (passive or active), so the more you drive the car, the quicker the DPF fills with soot, without the possibility to clean itself.

 

Once the soot within the DPF reaches a certain level is when the DPF light illuminates...

 

 

You're now very much on borrowed time. Ordinarily by following the instructions in the manual you're able to assist the car by taking it for a longer run, generating the required heat for the DPF to burn off the soot by itself. But in your situation it appears the DPF isn't functioning correctly, so nothing you do, including adding the fuel additives is going to remedy the situation.

 

As you've continued to drive the car then the soot in the DPF has continued to increase until such a point it has dropped into self-preservation mode - limp-home.

 

This is your last chance to avoid a costly repair bill. The car needs its DPF regenerating now. Do not continue to drive the car.

 

How long have you been driving the car in limp-home mode? If it has been for more than a few days then it may be that the soot in the DPF has reached a level where it isn't safe to perform a forced regeneration, even in controlled conditions.

 

Or, you may be lucky. Either way stop driving the car and get it to a garage that has VCDS, VAG-COM or a similar diagnostic system that can read the fault codes (instantly logged in the cars memory as soon as the EML illuminated), replace the sensor (if this is indeed the issue), calibrate the sensor to the car and perform a forced regeneration of the DPF.

 

Good luck.

 

When all of this is over, sell the diesel and buy one of the last petrol 1.2 TSI Yeti's, an absolute peach of an engine. I imagine even with this issue, living in Monaco your blood pressure is already pretty low 😂

 

If all your stars align, find an L&K with a panoramic sunroof to enjoy the beautiful scenery and architecture!

 

 

 

Edited 11 October, 20196 yr by silver1011

Hi Silver 1011,

 

Many thanks for your post - instructive & entertaining!

 

The latest breaking news is that Le Yeti is now functioning fine!

 

What did i do? i hear you ask..

 

1. Got hold of the Launch CR319 OBD2 (18€ from a supplier in Brazil..)
2. Connected & erased the error code (Particle filter issue)
3. all warning lights on dashboard removed except the 'particle filter' one
4. Went for a spin - 'limp mode' no longer engaged
5. 20 mins autoroute run and the 'particle filter' light disappeared also..
6. Went for a cruise around the Casino square looking for action..

 

Joking apart - I want to thank all of you guys out there who helped guide me in the right direction to get Le Yeti running correctly again without having to do the garage routine..

 

Many thanks.

 

J