Skip to content

Octavia won't even start

Featured Replies

Hi,

 

I have a 17 plate estate Octavia. Last week I turned my car in, it started but I had a couple of lights come on with several errors being present. My Electronic stability light was on, front assist and tyre pressure monitor lights all came on and gave me system failure messages. 

 

I turned off the car, turned it back on and away we went no problems. 

 

I've not driven the car for a week as I've been off work and tonight I turned the ignition. It turned over for maybe a second, before cutting out. Every dashlight came on and my wingmirrors folded in, before folding back out immediately. I tried twice more and exactly the same. 

 

I'll be calling road side assistance out tomorrow, but does anyone have any ideas as to the possible cause of this?

 

Thanks

Welcome.

A lose battery terminal, but more likely a flat battery.

I suspect the battery might be worth checking. 

Yup - that time of year. If a battery is past its best it tends to fail when the outside temperature drops. Probably time for a new battery! 

 

Stop/start batteries don't seem to last as long - probably due to the "energy efficient"charging circuits. Stop start cars need an EFB or AGM battery and it'll need coding to the car.

Edited by bigjohn

Agm battery all the time. I'd get yourself your own battery, fit it yourself if you're confident (I say that as I appreciate not everyone is mechanically minded) and see if you've a member which vcds close to you to do the coding.

 

Saves you paying the garage price.

2017 plate, so could be a warranty matter, particularly if HB is unlucky enough to have got one of the duff batch of batteries.

 

Gaz

  • 1 month later...

Ive got the exact same problem. Ill post a video in a bit. Checked fault code with a crappy obd device. seems like a ABS module device problem. My car also just spewed a lot off weird error codes... what you guys think?

 

Ive handed the car in to a workshop this morning, haven't heard anything yet... 

 

Im new on forum so hi to everyone! ;)

 

 

Btw ive got a new battery 70ah. fault codes are, tire pressure, Esp, engine, brakes, the main fault that shows up on the maxi dot is brakes, workshop. Language is Swedish.

 

/Dan

Got awnser back from workshop, mechanic says that the fault probably is a software issue? Not being updated? Really? 

 

They couldn't do anything and he recommended me to contact a Skoda workshop. Then asked me to collect the car. I asked him if he had any tricks to start it because it starts but then shuts down again. But he couldn't help me. 

 

I spoke with a Skoda dealer/workshop, and of course he hadn't any clue .. just that it whould be expensive.... 

 

Starting to regret this car purchase...

49 minutes ago, Dhellberg said:

it starts but then shuts down again.

Immobiliser problem?

Yeah, but i guess its lika a safety thing. Because all the larm codes. Strange thing is that they sometimes goes away... and then the car starts but only sometimes. 

 

Im researching this problem and found something similar with a guy who had a abs module problem... obd code u0121. Sounded like the same problem.

 

I whould like to know how to be able to start the car without it cutting of so i can drive it back home and then back to the skoda dealership. Got a appointment in march.... Yey... 

This is the start of the video..

 

 

Still have same and more Fault Codes coming on...OBeleven diagnosed P048A00 Exhaust Pres Control Valve STUCK CLOSED & P047F00 Ex Pres Control Valve STUCK OPEN...!!! along with the usual TPM Glow Plug and ECM 00290 Left Rear ABS wheel speed sensor....and Stop/Start entre console indicator.....believe it to be dirty EGR and/or replacement........................although seems to be common practice to replace the EGR.....(from build up in slow city traffic)

This will be done thursday.,hopefully

Yeti L&K TDI 1986cc 110kw 4x4( Nov2015)

Its odd this; because I had some wobbles with my previous car - a VRS 184 tdi (MY18 spec).  I was going through a severe thunderstorm and my car had a freaky 5 minutes - came up with a shed load of errors, and then went into Limp mode with U1195 - unexplained error).  It required a man with a ODB device to come out - remove the error, pat the car on the nose and tell it was okay.

 

Told dealer....who laughed!  It seems that the dealer who said - there is a firmware update - was right, because that was exactly what my VRS got (along with new radio firmware).  Problem went away....got better MPG and all was well.

 

 

Thnx for info, could it be the same issue? Instead of lightning striking the car I've had a flat battery for a period of time. When I purchased the car it didn't start so the dealer helped me with a startup helper? How long the car actually stood in his parking lot is anyones guess. Anywho drove back home and the next day the battery was dead so I swapped it. Haven't had any problems untill last week. 

 

I tried to collect the car today from the workshop but couldn't because it won't start... Well it starts and the stalls. With a bunch off error codes. I got a list of 5 pages of codes... I'll post them in a bit.   All of them point to a communication problem ?... And there is a big bunch of them... I've now contacted a proper actual Skoda workshop and I'm gonna hand the car in .. at the earliest time...2 march 😭

 

 

Some pics from the workshop...

 

 

IMG_20200123_061453.jpg

IMG_20200123_061433.jpg

Can't upload more because of size limitations... But the rest is pretty much the same... No coms....

The mechanic at the non Skoda workshop thought it was corrupt file in the ECU or similar dataunit... Time will tell... He pointed out that sometimes a flat battery can cause this? Sounds s bit weird to me but I'm no car expert... 

  • 1 month later...

So got the car back 2 weeks ago and everything seems to be working again after a repair at a skoda dealer. 

 

The fault was a power wire in a wire harness inside the the car. Beside the driver/passenger seat. It was pulled apart somehow. Apparently it was the cable that powered the computers in the car and the mechanic found the error by using a multimeter to check the values of the power cables in the car. He found a 12v  cable that only had 7v. 

 

So there u go, for anyone who has the same problem. 

 

/Mvh Dan

What sort of place was the first place you took it to? They don't sound too good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.